SU Fuel Pump Parts

[blueskies]

The pictures below should give an idea of the fuel pump lines and fittings on the car now.

The fuel pump works, but sometimes requires tapping with a screwdriver to start it ticking. It has a tag on it identifying it as an SU AZX1307 pump. I would like to replace the fuel pump, probably with an electronic SU type pump, before it lets me down on the road.

As you can see in the picture, the braided line with the banjo fitting looks far from new. So that needs replacement too. I'm assuming that is the line from the tank, and the rubber/steel line with the fuel filter runs to the front of the car. Haven't poked around enough under there yet to confirm much.

None of the parts suppliers that I have looked at sell braided lines like that with banjo fittings. I'm wondering if that is an original part or where it came from.

If possible, I would like to order the needed parts before taking this apart. Can anyone tell me what is available with correct fittings at both ends to replace the braided line or another way to replace this? I expect that the fitting at the tank end also is an obsolete British fitting, as on the early BN4s that I have a little experience with. I would rather not buy a full fuel line set and just replace the parts from the tank to the pump.

 

[Bob_Spidell]

Both your lines--tank to pump, pump to carbs--have been hacked-up (the flare nut fitting was used on early cars--you didn't tell us which car you have). Moss has the full set for $144.99USD, not unreasonable IMO. Tom's Import Toys knocks 10% off Moss prices (but he may have to order them), Bob Yule at Autofarm may have a better price and easier/cheaper shipping for you (and no customs). I've only seen these sold as a set. You'd want to verify that the lines have the correct banjo fittings.
SU pumps are fairly easy to re-build, but you may or may not be successful at it.

 

[blueskies]

Thanks, Bob. It's a 1956 BN2. I'm wondering if that originally came with banjo fittings or flare fittings at the pump. The parts listings from the suppliers (including Autofarm and Moss) don't show pictures or provide details of the fittings that the pipes come with. The replacement pumps, from Moss for example, do appear to include threaded male compression type fittings. Presumably those fittings would fit with the fittings on the pipe sets sold by the supplier. A few phone calls may help sort this out, to make sure that the fittings at both ends (tank and engine) also would work.

I thought of rebuilding the pump, but this may be a good time to move to an electronic pump for this car.

 

[tahoe healey]

Regardless what you do, rebuild the pump (easy) and CARRY as a spare. Fittings are wrong. Replace as Bob suggests. You don't want any leaks and the braided wire ones can fail internally especially with ethanol fuel.

 

[Bob_Spidell]

Here's the SS version: https://mossmotors.com/solid-state-electronic-fuel-pump-by-genuine-su-8

Anyone know why one fitting on the pump is brass and the other is steel?

The hard line set should have the correct fittings on each end.

 

[Keoke]

YEP:

YOU Are spot on:-----GO for IT !

but this may be a good time to move to an electronic pump

 

[John Turney]

If your pump is tagged AZX1307, according to SU, that is a dual polarity pump and would not be original. Check this link to Burlen, the SU people: http://sucarb.co.uk/catalogsearch/result/?q=AZX1307.

Burlen also has the biggest selection of parts.

 

[blueskies]

Those replies give me a lot more to go on and help with deciding on the best way to handle this. I'm leaning towards a new electronic SU pump with a complete new fuel line kit. The old pump certainly can serve as a spare, especially if rebuilt. I find it interesting that Burlen sells braided fuel lines with banjo fittings; that may explain where a previous owner obtained the fittings and lines.

 

[Bob_Spidell]

Your car's pump should be bolted to the rear bulkhead--behind the driver's seat--it looks like someone fashioned a bracket similar to what's used on the later cars (from what I can tell from the photos). The pump and lines should have the flared fittings, if originality is a concern. If you prefer to stay with the banjo fittings I think you can use the later pump.