Is it just me, or has the type on BCF suddenly gotten much smaller ? Maybe it takes up less room on the server ?
Anyway, if you are upgrading to poly (which is not covered in the factory manual
), then some grease is a good idea. Otherwise they tend to squeak (or so I've heard). When I converted to Nylatron, I actually added grease zerks so they could have a little fresh grease from time to time.
However, you definitely do not want to grease the stock rubber bushings, as it will cause them to deteriorate; and nylon/nylatron bushings can get by with the occasional drop of oil prescribed by the manual.
I've also heard that the current supply of outer washers for the trunnions do not fit properly. Unless your old ones are mangled, I'd suggest reusing them. Any wear will be compensated by the adjustment anyway.
Opinions vary, but I never like to "pack" the hub with grease. Work both roller cages as full as you can get them, then smear a thick layer over both the race and the outer face of the rollers & cage; that's enough IMO.
Also note that the wheel bearing clearance of 1.5-2 flats given in the factory manual is larger than required. It was later revised to 0.5-1.0 flat (back off 1/2 flat, then enough to insert the cotter pin). Plus if you are replacing the felt seal, it can interfere with this process (and result in huge bearing clearances). Best IMO is to check the clearance before the seal is installed, mark the nut position, then install the seal and put the nut back where it was.
All the major vendors offer a substitute for "Churchill Tool No. M.50", which I would definitely recommend over any sort of "general purpose" spring compressor. But it's not hard to make your own version of the special tool. Mine is a length of 3/4" threaded rod from Home Depot, plus some nuts and washers, and a metal plate I found in my junk box (actually a pulley half from a VW Bug generator).
Hmm, what else ... be sure to replace all Nyloc nuts, lockwashers and cotter pins. I didn't see any need to worry about setting the steering lock stop; until I added a sway bar and wide tires. Then I used the stops to keep the tires from rubbing the bar too hard.
Be sure to check for free motion both turning and up and down before installing the spring. Bent components can cause binding.
All I can think of offhand ...