Removing the differential from early BJ8.

[John_Progess]

I read the workshop manual and removed all the parts it recommended. I even removed the shocks and seats. Is there enough clearance to lift it over the frame, springs and out the right side as stated in the manual? The car is stripped now except for the differential, springs and front suspension. I am having way too much fun!

John

 

[BlueRidge1]

Mine came out ok. Had to remove the bump box. One word of caution. I had my drums off and when we lifted it out I had a hold of the axle...BAD move as the rest of the unit rotated suddenly pinching my hands between the parts. Proceed with caution! VERY PAINFUL! Bob

 

[Keoke]

Hi John, Since it appears you are going to strip the car of its suspension systems, and the DIFF being extremely heavy,I would put a jack under the DIFF and remove the springs. do not remove the brake drums and carefully lower the diff to the ground .You can now roll it out from under the car.---Fwiw--Keoke

 

[Keoke]

[ QUOTE ]
I am having way too much fun!

John

[/ QUOTE ]

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/iagree.gif But the real fun ain't even begun ,just wait til its time to put it all back together agin.---Keoke- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[JamesWilson]

[ QUOTE ]
...just wait til its time to put it all back together agin.---Keoke- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

[/ QUOTE ]

They go BACK together???? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif

 

[anthony7777]

jameswilson,oh ya they go back together!question is what to do with all the extra bits ? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazyeyes.gif

 

[John_Progess]

Keoke,
After the springs are removed, should I slide the diff to the right, lift the left wheel over the frame and rest in on the ground, lift the frame up, slide the diff to the left and lift the right side over the frame which will then put the diff on the ground and then slide the unit out from the card? Thanks for your help and have a good day!

John

 

[John Loftus]

John,

On my BJ7, I slid it out the left side but it was a tight fit. I think it was extra tight because the brake drums were still on. When I reinstalled it the brake drums were off and it was easy. I padded the frame rails with towels and once the diff was back in place used tie down straps (one in the front, one in the back through the metal hoop) to hang the diff using the back seat openings. A couple pieces of wood were used to spread the load. This made it easy to keep the diff out of the way when installing the springs. And btw, they aren't that heavy, just kind of awkward. I picked it up and moved it around the shop many times and installed it myself with my wife helping to aim. Keoke needs to start working out more! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

Cheers,
John

 

[John_Progess]

John,
How did you orient the drive shaft end,up,down,forward or rearward? Thanks for your help and have a good day!

John

 

[John Loftus]

John,

When you lay the diff. on the frame rails (when removing or installing) the drive shaft coupler wants to hang down because of the weight. I just let it hang down until I needed to turn it to get it past the rail. I think it worked best at a 45 degree angle to get it past the rail and to allow the metal emergency brake hoop that's on the back of the case to clear the back wall. And even though I did all the heavy lifting on mine it would be better to have extra hands.

Cheers,
John

 

[John_Progess]

John,
I finally did get the diff out last night. I would have given alot not to have had that emergency brake hoop on the backside. I did it by myself but I won't try that when everything is painted. Thanks again!

John

 

[BUNDYRUM]

I know i'm late for the removal of your differential but my advice would be when you go to put it back in leave everything off the housing. By this i mean the diff itself, brakes, axles and hubs. It is lighter and easier to lift in place and then re-assemble it. After the housing is sitting on the frame rails attach the springs and this will hold it in place while you assemble everything else. Putting the diff into the housing can be tricky because of the weight of it but just take your time, having someone to help can make life easier. Regards, BUNDYRUM

 

[John_Progess]

BUNDYRUM,
That's a good idea! How difficult is it to install the pumpkin with the diff housing in the frame? On my MGA's it is not bad at all. Thanks again and have a good Christmas.

John

 

[BUNDYRUM]

John, with the housing attached to the springs to hold it steady and the car a couple of feet off the ground you can lay on your back and lift it in. As i said it would be easier with someone helping from above but be careful as you could do yourself or someone else an injury if you don't take things easy. I have done it this way by myself a couple of times. Make sure you have plenty of support under the frame rails and not just axle stands. Hope you had a good Xmas. Regards, BUNDYRUM

 

[anthony7777]

john,i agree,keoke must do something,but im not sure i agree with bundyrum,id like to have the guts of the rear all sorted out,i.e spacing between uno.and axels etc,how can you do that when the body is allready in place? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/nonod.gif

 

[Keoke]

Removing or installing the dfferential by diassembly and reassembly under the car is possible .However, it is a lot of work in a confined space that I do not encourage one to try.---Keoke- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/nonod.gif

 

[John Loftus]

[ QUOTE ]

How difficult is it to install the pumpkin with the diff housing in the frame?


[/ QUOTE ]

I have changed the pumpkin with the diff housing on the car in the past. I would think most people who changed to the Lempert 3.54 gear sets did the same. I don't remember it being hard at all (but I have been accused of having selective memory before!). Of course you need space on both sides of the car to remove the axles and it's a good time to check bearings, seals and gaskets. I would guess the pumpkin and axles weighs about 35-40 lbs so removing then would make installing the diff housing easier plus it would slide right in because the front to back dimension will be smaller. On my BJ7 it is easy to remove the rear seat which allows easier access to the mounting nuts. Either way you go, I suggest using the Blue Hylomar HPF gasket dressing on the paper gaskets and mouting surfaces.

Cheers,
John

 

[BUNDYRUM]

Hello anthony7777, i'm not sure i understand quite what you mean with your comment of "id like to have the guts of the rear all sorted out, i.e spacing between uno. and axels etc, how can you do that when the body is allready in place". Is there anyway you can explain a little more please?. Regards, BUNDYRUM.

 

[Keoke]

[ QUOTE ]
Hello anthony7777, i'm not sure i understand quite what you mean with your comment of "id like to have the guts of the rear all sorted out, i.e spacing between uno. and axels etc, how can you do that when the body is allready in place". Is there anyway you can explain a little more please?. Regards, BUNDYRUM.

[/ QUOTE ]

BUNDYRUM, That 7777 bloke means "HE" would rather have the unit all together and properly set up prior to installation, rather than having it to bits!---Keoke- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[John Loftus]

Me thinks some people are getting confused with how the pumpkin gears, bearings and seals are set up.

The pumpkin is where all the critical setup takes place (setting crown wheel, pinion, bearing preload, backlash, etc.) and that is all done with the pumpkin out of the car (check the workshop manual for the procedure). Once it's set up you simply bolt the pumpkin to the housing. The axles then just slide in with axle bearings, seals, gaskets to attend to. It's easier to bolt the pumpkin on if the diff housing is out of the car but it's harder to install the completely assembled rear end because of the tight space. Take your pick!

Hope this helps!

Cheers,
John