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sparkydave
Jedi Knight
Offline
Got delayed by a few things, but already I like it. Can't say I'm fond of the kit that it came in; seems like somebody threw the carb and some parts in a box and called it a complete kit. Complete meaning it will work once you grind parts of the manifold with the Dremel tool, bend the new throttle cable bracket, fabricate a piece of sheet metal that lets you use the stock return spring with the cable bracket, and replace the supplied heater hose with something that actually fits. 
I'm impressed that before I even touched the mixture and idle adjustments it started right up! Once the cloud of smoke from the antifreeze that cooked off the exhaust cleared, it's nice to have a car that runs without stinking up the garage. Still need to modify the throttle cable bracket a little, but it's almost ready for the sun
.
Summary of what needed to be done:
-Remove Zenith carb, air filter housing, hot air hose, old intake manifold, EGR vacuum line, flame trap, and remove exhaust manifold so you can replace the manifold gasket. Save the throttle return spring and linkage to use with the Weber, since the return spring on the Weber needs some help. Save the vacuum line elbows.
-Remove the breather pipe and hoses to the vapor canister, but save the hoses; one of them will fit nicely between the valve cover nipple and the new breather fitting on the air filter without having to shorten it.
-Grind the mounting points of the Cannon manifold so they match the thickness of the old manifold's mounting points. Grind the excess metal off the ends of the manifold so that the fasteners won't run into the manifold before they grip the mounting face.
-Replace the long nuts on the lower mounting fasteners (3/8"x24 thread) with standard nuts to clear the Cannon manifold.
-Remove the EGR valve and plug the hole with a 3/4"x24 machine bolt since the EGR valve won't clear the air filter. Try Ace or True Value for the bolt, Home Depot and Lowe's don't have it. FYI, a 1 1/8" combination wrench, LOTS of PB Blaster, and a propane torch will get it out of there. Note that the valve is threaded in and the big hex thing is a nut, so once the nut turns you may have to turn it until it hits the valve, then unscrew the valve with it. Once the nut backs off you can shoot some penetrating oil in under the nut.
-Get a 3' length of 1/8" vacuum line to reach from the distributor advance to the port on the Weber.
-Run a longer length of 1/4" fuel tubing to reach the Weber.
-Get some 5/8" heater hose to run from the thermostat housing to the new manifold.
-Get some 1/2" heater hose to run from the rear of the new manifold to the tee fitting. Also use some 1/2" heater hose to replace what went through the Zenith's water choke.
-Run a wire from the fuse block using the switched circuit to the automatic choke.
-Bend the throttle bracket closer to the Weber since the stock throttle cable isn't quite long enough.
-I had to take a scrap of aluminum and make an extension to the bracket to retain the return spring the way the stock bracket did. I attached it using the nuts on the cable ferrule.
Note that all of this is reversible; if you're careful and save all the parts, everything can be put back to stock.
Parts and tools needed:
New manifold gasket
two 3/8"x24 fine thread nuts
3' of 1/8" vacuum line
1/4" fuel tubing
5/8" heater hose
1/2" heater hose
16 AWG wire
female spade lugs
hose clamps
coolant
Grinding wheel
PB Blaster or penetrating oil of choice
Propane torch
1 1/8" open ended wrench (longer is better)
Band-Aids (if you're like me :b)
I'm impressed that before I even touched the mixture and idle adjustments it started right up! Once the cloud of smoke from the antifreeze that cooked off the exhaust cleared, it's nice to have a car that runs without stinking up the garage. Still need to modify the throttle cable bracket a little, but it's almost ready for the sun
.Summary of what needed to be done:
-Remove Zenith carb, air filter housing, hot air hose, old intake manifold, EGR vacuum line, flame trap, and remove exhaust manifold so you can replace the manifold gasket. Save the throttle return spring and linkage to use with the Weber, since the return spring on the Weber needs some help. Save the vacuum line elbows.
-Remove the breather pipe and hoses to the vapor canister, but save the hoses; one of them will fit nicely between the valve cover nipple and the new breather fitting on the air filter without having to shorten it.
-Grind the mounting points of the Cannon manifold so they match the thickness of the old manifold's mounting points. Grind the excess metal off the ends of the manifold so that the fasteners won't run into the manifold before they grip the mounting face.
-Replace the long nuts on the lower mounting fasteners (3/8"x24 thread) with standard nuts to clear the Cannon manifold.
-Remove the EGR valve and plug the hole with a 3/4"x24 machine bolt since the EGR valve won't clear the air filter. Try Ace or True Value for the bolt, Home Depot and Lowe's don't have it. FYI, a 1 1/8" combination wrench, LOTS of PB Blaster, and a propane torch will get it out of there. Note that the valve is threaded in and the big hex thing is a nut, so once the nut turns you may have to turn it until it hits the valve, then unscrew the valve with it. Once the nut backs off you can shoot some penetrating oil in under the nut.
-Get a 3' length of 1/8" vacuum line to reach from the distributor advance to the port on the Weber.
-Run a longer length of 1/4" fuel tubing to reach the Weber.
-Get some 5/8" heater hose to run from the thermostat housing to the new manifold.
-Get some 1/2" heater hose to run from the rear of the new manifold to the tee fitting. Also use some 1/2" heater hose to replace what went through the Zenith's water choke.
-Run a wire from the fuse block using the switched circuit to the automatic choke.
-Bend the throttle bracket closer to the Weber since the stock throttle cable isn't quite long enough.
-I had to take a scrap of aluminum and make an extension to the bracket to retain the return spring the way the stock bracket did. I attached it using the nuts on the cable ferrule.
Note that all of this is reversible; if you're careful and save all the parts, everything can be put back to stock.
Parts and tools needed:
New manifold gasket
two 3/8"x24 fine thread nuts
3' of 1/8" vacuum line
1/4" fuel tubing
5/8" heater hose
1/2" heater hose
16 AWG wire
female spade lugs
hose clamps
coolant
Grinding wheel
PB Blaster or penetrating oil of choice
Propane torch
1 1/8" open ended wrench (longer is better)
Band-Aids (if you're like me :b)
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