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Thrust Washer Question

jerrybny

Jedi Knight
Offline
I know this has probably been covered before but here goes. I plan to drop my oil pan and do my thrust washers. I have 74,000 miles and I'm pretty sure they haven't been done before. I know there are different types. Anyone have expierence with chossing one. Also how will I know if I need oversize ones or not. Also I figured since I was down there I would do the main bearings and connecting rod bearings. I was hoping to prebuy them before I get into the job. Is this possible? Once again how do I know if I need oversize or standard size? I had planned to get the main bearings from TRF since they say they only use Vanderval.

Thanks to all those who answer.
 

trboost

Jedi Trainee
Offline
Jerry,
You should check the crank play before you drop the oil pan. The standard size thrust washer is .92 thou & go +005,015 & .030. Any combination of which should bring you to a goal of between .005-.008 thou in end play. I have always set mine on the tight side to .003. This still lets oil in & does not permit the crank to move back & forth to accelorate wear.
A very simple way to check is to lever the crank puley back & forth, the visable play should be approx the width of a finger nail. The proper way is with a dial indicator.
Be aware if you are going to do this in the winter that cold oil will take up a few thou & can change the reading when fully assembled & warm. That's another reason I go to the tight side. Use plenty of assembly lube when installing.

Good luck.
 

TR4MAN

Member
Offline
I assume you are talking about the thrust bearings which control crankshaft end play. My first question would be why? Do you have any reason to believe the crank has too much end play? Knocking etc... All that being said, you should have the end play specification somewhere. Measure the end play with a feeler gauge. Measure the rod and main bearing clearances with plastigage. You will at least get an idea of where to start. To truly fit the bearing properly, the crank will have to be removed and measured. I guess I keep coming back to that old saying: If it ain't broke .....
 

ALLAN

Jedi Warrior
Offline
visit ---users.arczip.com/zntech1/tr6.html--this is a guy that has come up with a bronze alloy washer that holds up better. I just ordered one .005 over. with the pan off you can also measure with a feeler gauge, with the crank pushed all the way to the back of the motor--you slip a feeler guage between the back edge of thrust washer and the crank. In my case my reading was .009 so I ordered one .005 over washer (from the site above) to give me .004 clearence. you can use the stock front washer. If you need new bearings it would be better to rebuild the engine, you would have to be lucky to get away with slipping in new bearings (although it has been done successfully at times) After some research I am going with the Clevites 77 (which are no longer trimetal). there are not alot of choices out there. True vandervells are no longer available and the Roadster factory sells King bearings. British Parts Northwest advertises a trimetal bearing but do not know the manufacturer.
 
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