1275 ran without oil for 5 miles...

[cl_miata]

Happened tonight, I always check my gauges when I started the car and all was well, then I noticed a few minutes later that the oil pressure gauge was reading 0, took it for a gauge problem since I just changed the oil, but pulled over into a kmart (best lighted place) a few miles later to be sure, and oil is everywhere in the engine compartment, the small oil line right by the distributor had blown off. I figure the car ran for about 5 miles with no oil. I attached the gauge, filled up with oil, and threw in some slick 50, figured it was the best I could do. The idle appears to be a bit jumpy now, ranging within 300 rpms, but havent noticed any power loss. Anyone suggest any steps I should do? any ideas how much damage could have been done to the valves, bearings, etc. I also am noticing a bit more "valve tick" at idle. I am a poor college student, and right now a complete engine re-build would be out of the question.

 

[Jer]

I'm not an expert but there will be some damage, I would suggest changing the oil & filter right away to get any particles cleared out (this will be a good opportunity to see how bad the sludge is from running with no oil)
However there is still a good chance you can run the car, allthough it may be a little lower on the oil pressure & a bit more noisey, I remember my brother drove his chev 6cyl for approx 30 miles with little to no oil (oil filter had backed off) we changed the oil & filter right where he had pulled over, unplugged the annyoing idiot light that showed low oil pressure & he drove it for another 2 years before buying another truck (and it was still running).
The way I look at it is that the damage is already done, but if it runs & has oil pressure now you might as well run it & rebuild when you can afford - maybe others with better engine smarts will chime in with reasons not to...

 

[smaceng]

Sorry to hear about the event.
So, just to try to get more info, how many quarts did you add to bring it back up to full? If it went all the way dry, it took some time before the pump went dry. So it likely had oil for some of the 5 minutes.
I would definitely drain out the oil and change the filter. That way any stuff worn off will be flushed out. Remember, the top of the engine is mainly cooled by the coolant in the radiator, the lower end in mainly cooled by the oil. My guess any trouble would be in the lower end, unlikely the valves.
I would adjust the valves just for good measure and then compare the before and after oil pressure. If it is similar, don't sweat it, just drive it. A 1275 is a foregiving animal and it should be OK IMHO.
What are other peoples thoughts?
Scott in CA

 

[cl_miata]

I threw in about 3 quarts of oil, plus the slick 50 treatment, Not exactly sure as I had my mom bring over my gallon containers of castrol and there is about 1/4 left in the one gallon container. Advance only shows me the oil filters that go into the canister for my 69, but mine uses a spin on type, is there a cross reference to what this model is form the store so I can get this done ASAP instead of ordering a filter from moss(the P.O. gave me a new filter, but it has no markings on it to reference what to buy in store)

 

[tao724]

Fram PH966B might be worth a try.

 

[Trevor Jessie]

Wix 1348

 

[Trevor Jessie]

Purolator L10028

 

[Hairyone]

oh bugger! I once ran a beetle on 3 cylinders & a hole in the top of the block made by the con rod for a few miles.
Anyway, to your problem; The 1st thing to go without oil will be main of bigend bearings. I haven't stripped one of these engines yet (perhaps somone else could advise) but it may be posible to remove rod end caps and or main bearing saddles from under the car just by removing the sump. Inspect these & if they're scored it won't last long. Post a photo of them if you're unsure.

 

[texas_bugeye]

Was it the oil pressure gauge line? If so I'm not so sure you ran with out oil pressure. If you did not for 5 minutes.
You lost oil pressure indication when the line broke but oil was still being pumped to the rest of the engine and the engine bay. Even at 6o PSI it would takes longer than 5 mintues to loose 4 quatrs of oil out an 1/8th in fitting. If the engine runs a little ruff could be some oil got into some place it doesnt belong cleanup the spark plug wires real good and around the dizzy cap.

If it was the line with the bango bolt I'm with the rest of the advise the guys have given.

 

[jvandyke]

I use a P16 filter of the Fram type I think. Spin on adapter that you have will take any filter that "fits" All three of my cars use the same filter at the moment. I think the P16 type is a bit shorter so easier to spin on and off, more clearance then some.

 

[smaceng]

Just for reference, a number of years ago, a major advertising campaign was produced on TV showing an oil additive that would allow an engine to be driven hundreds of miles without oil in the crankcase. The drain plug for passenger cars as well as race cars was removed and the cars driven for an extended distance. This advertising went on for at least a year without anyone challenging the claim. Finally Consumer Reports ran a test, one car with the additive, one without, drained both crankcases and ran the cars in NY City. Both vehicles' engines locked up solid within 1 miles of each other at 25 miles from the start. That gives information about how far a car will run when it totally runs out of oil, not very far! As a result the additive company no longer ran the advertising.
Scott in CA

 

[cl_miata]

Yes, it was the oil pressure line that blew off, but keep in mind this was for 5 miles, not 5 minutes, id say time wise it was more like 10 minutes. I will re-change the oil today then, and add on a new filter, I would add some more slick 50, but form my readings it appears it can hurt more than help

 

[kcbugeye1275]

I agree, sounds like you were running oil, just loosing it at a slow rate. We have all screwed up, some just more severely than others. Might be a good time to remind everyone to do the old check for all the nuts and hose clamps to all the hoses. The last time I did it I found the water hose from the heater clamp so loose, I could remove the clamp form the hose with my hands. On closer inspection, it was leaking just a little. These lbcs need an extra bit of attention to enjoy. Hope this is all your problem will be. Keep an eye on it after you change the oil.

 

[RickB]

Remember these cars are 30+ years old, some much older. (much much older)
Many of them went for decades with no maintenance at all.
That a pressure line blew isn't amazing, that it finally blew after 30+ years is.
I had the same thing happen on a 70 MGB. It got oil all over everything. Clean the cap, rotor, plug wires & everything over there - I'm sure it was a mess.
Did all that oil reduce the squeaking at all?

My wife was driving the B when it happened, she called and said "something seems wrong..."
I had her check a few things but something like OIL ALL OVER EVERYTHING escaped her notice, as did the 0 reading on the gauge. Oh well, live & learn...

 

[cl_miata]

HAHA no, the oil didnt reduce the squeaking sadly, Once the GF was driving her moms voyager, and she had told me that the speedo quit working, but everything else was ok. I go over, and the car doesnt go out of first, and it was being driven around like this for days, "How do you not notice the extremely high rpms doing 40"?

 

[tomshobby]

Might be a good time to consider what cam you are going to get to replace the one in your engine.

 

[cl_miata]

Well if any internal parts do need replacing, it will be a while, I still owe money for the purchase of the car

 

[bugimike]

I think I would be a bit more optimistic than the rest of the posts, as it does not sound to me like you ran the engine completely dry! I'm not saying NO damage was done, and no doubt there was probably some "extra" wear, but I'm sure it is not "terminal". Not to sound like I am lecturing, but, for future reference may I suggest also "drive with your nose" (actually all your senses...ears too!). Over the ten minutes the oil was leaking (probably spraying from the guage line!!) it must have made a burnt oil odor, and the valves probably "clacked" a bit more too! :wink:

 

[jlaird]

Do not be concerned, you have not hurt anything if you only put in three qts. Holds mostly 5 with the filter.

The oil pressure reading 0 was because the line to the guage came off.

Actually you still had oil pressure all the way but getting lower at the end.

Yup, change the oil just for insurance sake and fix the broken line.

Do stop right away when the guage is reading 0 and carry a flash light.

 

[tomshobby]

That makes sense Jack and I do hope you are right. Had something similar happen to my TR6 engine a little over three years ago only I caught it a lot quicker. That did not turn out well.