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TR2/3/3A TR3 starting with hand crank?

TruCraft

Jedi Hopeful
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Thinking about having some fun with my TR3!
Tired of working on it.
It's running good and starting good.
I have the hand crank, the guide and radiator hole line up with the crank perfect.
The starter dogs are in the proper position.

A few of my car buddies have been talking about having a TR3 hand crank/cookout party at my place!
:cheers:
How about some advise so we don't kill ourselves.
I have heard lots of horror stories about broken wrist, arms.........
My Dad always said to pull up, and don't wrap your thumb around the handle.

Any nearby British folks with hand crank starting experience are invited!
Lyle
 
"Never Dally Down" :iagree:
Quote from an old team roper who still had his thumbs

ie don't wrap your thumb around the handle
 
Down is thought to be the proper way. Beats me why... Up is safer and easier.

The thumb thing applies to going down on the crank. If it kicks back, and your thumb is wrapped around it, you're in trouble. If your thumb is on the same side as your fingers, the handle pops "harmlessly" out of your grip. If your pulling up, a kickback works against your fingers, not your thumb, and (usually) doesn't break anything when you lose your grip.

Step 1) Have the engine in a fine state of tune. You don't want to do this all day. (Also, reduces the likelihood of kickback.)

Step 2a) Cold engine? Use the choke.

Step 2b) Warm engine? Use the choke on the first notch, which should be just a little throttle -- no mixture enrichment.

(Don't forget to turn on the key and take it out of gear)

Step 3) Have fun! It is pretty cool. For extra enjoyment, do it out in public from time to time. Everybody looks. Really old guys get all excited. They haven't seen this in YEARS!
 
These is no need for worry or concern about your thumb etc. When the engine starts, the sloped cams on the end of the huge starting bolt and also on the end of the hand crank will eject the crank towards you about 1/2" and it will just sit there with you hand still around it.

NO PROBLEM !
 
Moseso said:
Down is thought to be the proper way. Beats me why... Up is safer and easier.

The thumb thing applies to going down on the crank. If it kicks back, and your thumb is wrapped around it, you're in trouble. If your thumb is on the same side as your fingers, the handle pops "harmlessly" out of your grip. If your pulling up, a kickback works against your fingers, not your thumb, and (usually) doesn't break anything when you lose your grip.

Step 1) Have the engine in a fine state of tune. You don't want to do this all day. (Also, reduces the likelihood of kickback.)

Step 2a) Cold engine? Use the choke.

Step 2b) Warm engine? Use the choke on the first notch, which should be just a little throttle -- no mixture enrichment.

(Don't forget to turn on the key and take it out of gear)

Step 3) Have fun! It is pretty cool. For extra enjoyment, do it out in public from time to time. Everybody looks. Really old guys get all excited. They haven't seen this in YEARS!
Good info about the thumb and choke.
I will probably start the car with the starter first, so everything is warmed up and running good.
My crank dogs are at about 10-4 as the manual shows. When the #1 piston is at TDC the crank is at this position. (See picture)

Should I get the crank handle to be about as shown or slightly lower and more before TDC?

I am right handed so I will have that hand on the handle.
Should I use both hands as shown?
Lyle
 

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In 1967, My TR3 lost its starter solenoid. Incredibly the Oldsmobile/Triumph dealer had to order one. For the better part of a week I used the crank to start never thinking it might hurt. It did'nt. With the compression starting at about 7 o'clock, just a quick short pull up was enough to easily start a reasonably warm engine. The Ford's Model T crank is a different story.
 
I had the starter fail on day 1 of a 7 day trip so I got a lot of practice with that crank.

I use 2 hands cradling the handle as you show. If the engine is hot it starts almost effortlessly. For a cold engine I begin my crank spin at about the 4:00 position -- I think this gets be 2 compression strokes (or maybe 1 and 1/2) out of one cranking -- anyway that seems to help.

It is fun to crank start the beast a few times during that lull in activity at car shows. Kids and old guys especially enjoy it.

crank-it.JPG
 
Wooo Hooo!
I did it, took two tries and it started easily.
Choke out a little, used 2 hands, handle at about 7:00, pulled up quick.
Handle pushed back a little and started right up.
That was fun!
Thanks for the help.
Lyle
 
And it's so quiet when it starts that on-lookers can't believe that it's now running. None of that whirr - whirr - whirr from the electric starter that everyone expects to hear. I always do mine with the bonnet up and when it starts, it's a quick step to the side to rev the throttle link at the front of the carbs. That's when strangers accept that it's really running.

Mine usually starts easier when it's been parked about half an hour or more. It was always a bit harder when it was hot.

You wrote that it started on the 2nd pull with a hot engine. Try it another time when the engine has cooled down. Try it several times to get a truer confirmation if your TR starts easier when hot or when cold.
 
TR3ATR250 said:
any one have a pic of the handle and end? would like to see how it engages.

If you seek one be aware there were several lengths with the fat part located in different spots (small mouth, wide mouth, TR4).

A short crank...

crank-short.JPG



A long crank...

crank-long.JPG



The business end that engages the dog on the pulley bolt...

crank-end.JPG
 
Geo Hahn said:
TR3ATR250 said:
any one have a pic of the handle and end? would like to see how it engages.

If you seek one be aware there were several lengths with the fat part located in different spots (small mouth, wide mouth, TR4).

A short crank...

crank-short.JPG



A long crank...

crank-long.JPG



The business end that engages the dog on the pulley bolt...

crank-end.JPG

George: Home Depot is having a sale on driveway coating this weekend! :devilgrin:
 
My sons and myself decided last year to see if hand cranking really would start the TR3. We never gave much thought to if it would kick back on us and I suppose we were lucky cause it started right up with each crank (we all tried it) and no one broke anything. Actually, I don't remember it even kicking back at all. Good luck and have fun.
 
Yep, it's fun!
My daughter took a picture of me hand cranking the car.....should have pulled my pants up a little. :blush:

Have started it only 5 times and the hand crank dogs are showing lots of wear already!
This is a reproduction sold by Moss.
The metal is really soft.
Have others had this problem?
Lyle
 

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Mine is an original, and it looks like that too. I actually "sharpened" it once, many years ago.

I have owned three TR3s. Every one of them has required me to use the hand starting crank at some point, through failure of the electric starter. I've gotten pretty good at it.
 
I had to do this once in the old days down at the drive-in - to the laughter of all the Ameeican car drivers!

I only use the crank for setting valves, and in the last TR I owned actually recored the rad without the hole, going for more cooling capacity.

Next car show you have, try and get all the TR owners to have a hand cranking contest.
 
As a penniless college kid in the late 60s, I could never afford a good battery for my ultra-ratty TR3, so I either hand cranked or parked on a hill.
If I had to hand crank, I always backed the timing off about 15 degrees (I had it marked) and pull the choke out a bit (to raise the idle speed).
Worked well.
After it was running, I'd turn the distributor back up to (approximately) the correct timing position.
Always had the distributor *just* tight enough to move by hand.
 
Enjoy the stories about hand starting, how simple things used to be!

I did some work on my crank handle.
The dogs wouldn't seat properly in the crank bolt.
Removed the excess paint, burrs and dents.
Then TIG welded a "blob" back on the corners.
Then using a Dremel & file put the corners back on.
Then instead of paint I used some gun bluing. Didn't want the paint getting in the way of the dogs seating.
Turned out good.
It works good now.
But, the car starts better cool than hot.
Gotta find the proper choke setting, I guess.
Keep the stories coming!
Lyle
 

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