TR2/3/3A Anyone cut out the spare tire compartment on a tr3?

[sp53]

Anyone cut out the spare tire compartment on a tr3? I have an extra nice one and the one in my restoration is ugly shot. It looks like the weld that holds it in is around the top edge. The truck floor has already separated from the spare compartment. This looks like a real pain, but it looks like removing the spare tire compartment would give access to the back sealed areas and plus get me a nicer compartment. I googled around, but could find no evidence of anyone cutting one out.

steve

 

[CJD]

The parts car I bought from Marv had a new boot floor installed...about halfway, that is. It looked to me like replacing the floor envolved mostly removing the spare tire compartment too. It should be doable, but there are a lot of hard to reach areas to be re-welded.

 

[auprichard]

I cut out the spare tire compartment in all my cars so I can fit a larger spare wheel. This is a smallmouth TR3 I an restoring. Just back from the blasters and you can see the compartment in the picture.

 

[sp53]

Those are my thoughts also John. When I look Auprichards car I want to trade him for something. That looks like a nice sold tub Auprichard. The one I got is in poor shape and if I got it blasted it would be worse. I was impatient when I bought it cheap and should have known better by know.

Yeh, to get the spare tire compartment out, it looks like I need to flip it over and remove the 2 lower pieces with the rear mounts and the long pieces that run the length of the back. Should keep be busy!!!!

I curious if you do not mind auprichards how much is a sand blast like that going for theses days.

steve

 

[mctriumph]

This is done along with the replacement of the floor in the boot. I recommend that a test fitting of all parts should
be done at least twice. On the last fitting, mark the underside of the new floor with a sharpie, then drill 8mm holes
at 3.5" for the plug welds you are about to install. Also if desired, is metal bonding adhesive can work well here if the fit
is up to spec. the welding is not needed .After marking the floor (as described) clean the surfaces where the bond will
be, and use some 1/8 rivets (4 or 5) to pull the two surfaces together. These will be filled later(more epoxy).
Lastly weld the spare aperture as OE. Good luck, the floors are all re-pops, and require some hand fitting to say the least.
Mad dog