TR6 TR6 Clutch

[Scot1966]

Hello everyone, I am wondering what clutch to buy for the TR6. Has anyone had good luck with a certain brand or "kit " ? Does anyone know how the "Gunst" throw out bearing is, and/or is it still even available anywhere ? Is it true that the koyo bearing just isn't right for the TR6 ? I have been reading all the potential problems 6 owners are reporting, and I didn't realize there were so many issues with clutches for the 6's, and I don't know which way to go. CONFUSION ! I don't want a heavy pedal...just a good reliable clutch. Suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks, Scot

 

[Zip960]

https://web.archive.org/web/20030605162748/www.buckeyetriumphs.org/index_technical.htm

The above link has an entire section on clutches.

 

[Tybalt]

As far as I know, the Gunst bearings are still available from Roadster Factory under part number HPGN1. The question is whether or not someone took over the throw out bearing part of the business for continued availability after Joachim Gunst died. His repair shop shut down except for the Land Rover part which was taken over by someone else.

I can tell you using the voice of bad experience that a Gunst bearing will not work with a new style Borg & Beck. I first went to a Gunst bearing many years ago when you had to order them from Joachim himself. I had nothing but problems with it, but it turned out I was using the "wrong" clutch cover. The new style B&B has bent fingers and the Gunst bearing contact surface with those style clutch covers does not allow it to function consistently. I came to find out about this issue after contacting him. His recommendation was an LUK clutch cover, made the switch and success. The LUK is a "heavier" clutch than the B&B or the Sachs clutch. I believe, but can't say for sure that the Sachs clutch cover has straight fingers like the LUK but requires much less force to operate.

 

[TR3driver]

Mr. Gunst did not make those bearings; he just did the leg-work to find a combination of off-the-shelf components that he felt would work better. Several others have copied his work.

Personally, I stuck with the stock Laycock/Luk components (my TR3 has a TR6 clutch). I've probably got close to 70k miles on it, mostly city driving, and no problems so far. I actually moved the clutch from my previous TR3A (which got wrecked) into the current TR3 and everything looked fine (except the friction surface on the Fidanza flywheel was a bit more worn than I would have liked). But I also kept the TR3 slave setup, that pulls the bearing back off the PP while driving.

The bad batch of RHP bearings was a long time ago, it's not likely you'll find any in stock now (except maybe on eBay). All of the other setups (including the Gunst) introduce their own problems.

Here are a couple of articles that you might find interesting. I suspect the information that Brent Kiser found explains a lot of the infamous TR6 clutch problems.

https://vintagetriumphregister.org/maintain/clutch-laycock.pdf
https://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/clutch/ReliableClutch/ReliableClutch.htm

 

[Scot1966]

Mr. Gunst did not make those bearings; he just did the leg-work to find a combination of off-the-shelf components that he felt would work better. Several others have copied his work.

Personally, I stuck with the stock Laycock/Luk components (my TR3 has a TR6 clutch)

The bad batch of RHP bearings was a long time ago, it's not likely you'll find any in stock now (except maybe on eBay). All of the other setups (including the Gunst) introduce their own problems.

Here are a couple of articles that you might find interesting. I suspect the information that Brent Kiser found explains a lot of the infamous TR6 clutch problems.

https://vintagetriumphregister.org/maintain/clutch-laycock.pdf
https://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/clutch/ReliableClutch/ReliableClutch.htm

I actually like the feel of the stock Laycock clutch that was in my 6 when I took the car apart. I would re-use it except there is a groove worn in the fingers from the TOB.
My friend at work had the experience of a couple bad RHP bearings when they were going around, but I agree, that has been solved by now.

Randall, thanks for the articles. Actually, the Buckeye Triumphs article I read last weekend and that is what got me thinking. There is a lot of good info in the VTR article !

Thanks, Scot

 

[TexasKnucklehead]

Just to add my 2 cents...

I also have a TR6. It's my second TR6. My first TR6 had clutch issues when I purchased it -someone welded the fork to the cross shaft. I cut it out and replaced with used parts. It worked fine when I let it go to someone else, but the clutch was hard.

My present TR6 developed clutch problems while I had it. The taper pin in the cross shaft had previously broken and was 'repaired' with a through bolt -that was not a hard (grade 8) bolt. It was not drilled with the fork located properly on the shaft. The bolt broke, and messed up the threads in the cross shaft... eventually after breaking a tooth off 1st gear (twice) I got a magic kit from TRF and replaced everything. I wish I would have done that years ago. The clutch is smooth and works better than ever. I'm not saying I needed everything, or TRFs kit is better, but it was easy to get a complete kit and be done with it. You will know frustration after you install the transmission (again) and (again) the clutch is not functioning as expected.

Also make sure the hole in your clutch pedal is not overly stretched out, the pin and clevis to the M/C is not worn and the hydraulics are all up to par.