TR6 TR6 -- clutch pedal has too much play

[Steve1970]

hi all!

been working thru some clutch disengagement issues this weekend. i'm only getting 3/8" slave cyl rod movement (heard it was supposed to be more like 5/8"). as a temp fix i've moved the slave cyl rod up to the top hole of the clutch lever.

gone thru all of the usual troubleshooting steps... problem seems to be with the clutch pedal itself; there's about 1/2" side-to-side free play on the clutch pedal where it pivots on the pedal shaft, very loose feeling. what's the best remedy for this?

i'm hoping that fixing this will allow me to re-place the slave cyl rod back to the middle hole, as the top hole causes the clutch to feel very stiff.

thanks in advance! Steve

 

[RonMacPherson]

pop your clutch linkage off the pedal pivot. Look at the holes, probably elongated, pin might be worn also. You might find bushings at your well equipped hardware store, or go get an early Honda Accord(early being 86-91) clutch mcyl rod. It can replace the lucas one in the cylinder. Bush the elongated hole in the pedal(new rod comes with clevis) and the rod is adjustable for length...

 

[Brosky]

Ron,

I may be reading this incorrectly, but the way I understand this is that Steve has play between the pedal and pedal shaft, not the pedal to linkage connection. I'm thinking up in the top of the box area where the brake and clutch pedal slide on the shaft.

Steve, am I correct in this assumption or did I get it all wrong?

Courtesy of Moss Motors on line catalog:

 

[Brosky]

Sorry, Steve, I nearly forgot. Welcome to the Forum.

You're not too far from me if you ever need help. Don't hesitate to contact me if you do.

 

[Steve1970]

hey thanks for the replies guys!

there is some play in the m-cyl linkage rod (which i will address with Ron's idea of using a rubber bush), but the big culprit is where the pedal attaches to the pedal shaft. according to Paul's diagram it looks like i'm short a couple of bushings on the pedal shaft. spectacular timing as i'm just now putting in a TRF order.

Paul many thanks for your offer of help, and please send me a pm if i can be of any help; still learning on these cars, but hey i've got two hands.

 

[RonMacPherson]

You're right, I skipped over the pedal side-to-side movement which is the bushings. Mea Culpa

 

[Steve1970]

...or go get an early Honda Accord(early being 86-91) clutch mcyl rod. It can replace the lucas one in the cylinder. Bush the elongated hole in the pedal(new rod comes with clevis) and the rod is adjustable for length...

hi Ron,

i'm seriously considering doing this (in addition to the clutch pedal bushings). i can't find the pushrod online for that honda accord. should i just call up a dealer and order a clutch master cyl push-rod for a 1990 Honda Accord?

assuming i can get my hands on one, how do i swap the pushrod? does it involve pulling apart the master cyl?

many thanks!

 

[Brosky]

Steve,

The correct rod would be available from Moss in the diagram that I posted, which is part of the assembly. If you have been having issues and the slave is the original, this may be the time to replace everything while you're in there.

I'd order a #35 Clevis Pin as well.

 

[Steve1970]

hi Paul,

i didn't see anything in moss (or anyone else's) catalog for an adjustable master cyl push rod (they did have an adj slave rod). i'll give it a second look when i get home tonite. was thinking the honda master cyl pushrod might be a possible alternative if it didn't require a lot of customization.

the slave cyl incl the pushrod was replaced by PO a few months ago, so i'm good there. but a new clevis is a definite.

 

[Brosky]

Steve,

Don't waste any money on the adjustable slave rod. It's of no value. Ask me how I know!!

I meant that the picture for the Clutch Master Cylinder includes the rod at the rear. And no, it is not adjustable.