TR6 TR6 Clutch Hydaulics

[bigbadbluetr6]

I have resently rebuild my TR6 clutch master and cylinder. The fluid in my reservoir has become murky. What has caused this? I know that it could be eating the rubber in the system but I just rebuilt them. Could it be that I need to replace the pipes connecting the two or is there a way to flush the system? I have ran some new fluid while bleeding the system but that wasn't good enough to clean out any rubber. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks Eric

 

[DrEntropy]

About the only thing I'd use in the lines themselves is denatured alcohol, followed by a GOOD pressure blowout with an air hose. This with nothing attached to the lines. If the M/C and slave have been rebuilt you *should* be able to push the contaminated fluid out with bleeding after reattaching everything.

 

[tdskip]

Including switching over to DOT5 Doc?

 

[sail]

I had the same problem with a rebuild kit for the master and new slave. I got both from VB which also supplied bad caliper seals. I replaced all from another supplier and no more problem.

 

[bigbadbluetr6]

I used a VB kit to rebuild my slave cylinder and TRF to rebuild my master. Would the rubber already be deteriorating and causing the fluid in the reservoir to become murky? I also switched to synthetic fluid after the rebuilds. Maybe I need to either flush out the system or replace the lines. What does everyone think? Eric

 

[TR3driver]

At one time, British brake/clutch seals were made from some sort of 'rubber' that most DOT 3/4 brake fluids would attack. I know, I did not believe that either, until I proved it to my own satisfaction (around 1978 or so). Rebuilt the entire system, flushed and dried the lines (BTW methanol is safer than denatured alcohol, from the brake's point of view), parked the car for a few months, and found that all of the brand new seals were in the process of turning to goo.

Repeated the experiment with Castrol, and the seals held up just fine.

Most replacement seals since the 80s or so have been made from sterner stuff; but it sounds like maybe someone is supplying them in the original material again.

 

[DougF]

I bought a VB slave cylinder and used Dot 5, within 3 months it needed rebuilt. After using a TRF rebuild kit, there have been no problems in 5-6 years.

 

[bigbadbluetr6]

Would the slave cylinder which I rebuilt with a VB kit be causing this problem? The slave is not leaking but would it cause my problem?
Eric

 

[DrEntropy]

Sounds more like the M/C. It would be unlikely the debris could migrate up the line from the slave. What's in the line already, will only move to and fro rather than 'circulate' to any degree.

DOT-5 is not my first choice. Castrol LMA is all I've used for decades now in old English cars. Some clients have chosen the DOT-5 route, no horror stories.

 

[TR4A_IRS]

I have the same problem on my TR4, and I do think it is the seals. The part that troubles me the most is that I either replaced or rebuilt the entire clutch hydraulic system and the symptoms showed up again within a month. I don't recall what sort of brake fluid I am using, but it is probably the cheapest stuff I could find at the LAPS.

When I get bored, I plan to rebuild the works again and use a better brake fluid. Hopefully I can find better seals, as I doubt the cheap brake fluid is the culprit.

 

[TR4A_IRS]

At one time, British brake/clutch seals were made from some sort of 'rubber' that most DOT 3/4 brake fluids would attack. I know, I did not believe that either, until I proved it to my own satisfaction (around 1978 or so). Rebuilt the entire system, flushed and dried the lines (BTW methanol is safer than denatured alcohol, from the brake's point of view), parked the car for a few months, and found that all of the brand new seals were in the process of turning to goo.

Repeated the experiment with Castrol, and the seals held up just fine.

Most replacement seals since the 80s or so have been made from sterner stuff; but it sounds like maybe someone is supplying them in the original material again.

Do you mean Castrol LMA?

 

[TR3driver]

Do you mean Castrol LMA?

Honestly, after 30 years, I just don't recall if it was LMA or not. I kinda sorta think not, since I think LMA is a more recent product. But it was whatever LBC suppliers were selling then as "British" brake fluid (for about twice the price of common American brake fluid).

But after running DOT 5 for about 20 years now, I'd never use paint remover (DOT 3/4) if I had a choice!

 

[Tinster]

My entire clutch system was trashed by the DPO.
I had to replace every component.

Purchased everything from TRF. 5000 miles no problems.

dale.