TR2/3/3A TR3A Fuel Gauge problem

[TR3-Stu]

My '61 TR3A's fuel gauge is non-functional. It will only move about 1/8" off the peg when I move the sender full range. I purchased a new sender thinking that was the problem - but get the same results. In the past I've used Nisonger in New York for gauge repair/rebuilding and they did great work, but they're no longer doing instrument repair. Moss is recommending either West Valley Instruments in CA, or MO-MA in Albuquerque, NM. Has anyone used either of these two repair outfits? Has anyone used another outfit to rebuild Jaeger instruments?
Thanks,
Stu

 

[CJD]

I have not, but several posters have used West Valley and sounded like they were happy. I have not heard of MO-MA.

 

[Tugboat]

Mo-Ma rebuilt my temperature gauge some years ago and did a splendid job. My notes tell me that Margaret Lucas at Mo-Ma handled all of the details and kept me updated on progress. Put me down as a satisfied customer.

 

[Gliderman8]

I used Mo-Ma to rebuild my tach and speedo. I’m also a satisfied customer. I’ve never used West Valley but have also heard good things about them.

 

[GilsTR]

Memory says..... to get best results with your fuel gauge.... you need to send your sending unit in with the gauge
to end up with the best results.
Frank from San Diego is often on here. He does excellent small gauge restoration. Might touch base with him.

Gil. NoCal

 

[Frank_D]

I have used MoMa for Speedo and Temp gauge restoration and Margaret was very responsive and the work was excellent. My Speedo is as accurate as my GPS. I recommend them. Did not know about Nisonger not doing gauge work anymore.
Frank D…..

 

[TR3-Stu]

Thanks for all the helpful input. Looks like MoMa and West Valley both have positive feedback. As to Nisonger - they were damaged in one of the large tropical storms that hit New York (I think it was tropical storm Sandy) with 6 feet of water in their repair shop. They no longer do repairs, only sell replica gauges. Thanks again.
Stu

 

[Stevenry]

Maybe try this first. My gauge worked intermittently, then stopped. When it was intermittent, sometimes a gentle rap with a knuckle would get it registering again. I did not remove my seats, so I couldn’t see anything at all, but laying across both seats and getting a hand up there, I felt what seemed to be a bracket that went across the back of the fuel gauge. In the center of the bracket, right in the middle of the back of the gauge was what felt like a knurled nut. It was loose, and tightening it as much as I could with my fingers got the gauge working perfectly. I assume the bracket and nut/bolt are Important for grounding or an electrical connection.

At some point I’ll get the seats out and have a good look at the rats nest up there. My current project when not working (can’t wait to retire) or battling Pacific Northwest truely astounding summer blackberry growth, is trying to get the climate control and a/c working on an ‘85 Mercedes Turbodiesel wagon.

Steve

 

[DrEntropy]

At some point I’ll get the seats out and have a good look at the rats nest up there. My current project when not working (can’t wait to retire) or battling Pacific Northwest truely astounding summer blackberry growth, is trying to get the climate control and a/c working on an ‘85 Mercedes Turbodiesel wagon.

Steve, do you know about the heater control valve just to the starboard side of center on the firewall needing to have good clean contacts on the two-wire plug? That drove me nuts for a bit. "Normally open" with A/C off. It mixes hot water into the system when the A/C is engaged if it doesn't get power from the control. Just one of the quirks.

 

[Stevenry]

Steve, do you know about the heater control valve just to the starboard side of center on the firewall needing to have good clean contacts on the two-wire plug? That drove me nuts for a bit. "Normally open" with A/C off. It mixes hot water into the system when the A/C is engaged if it doesn't get power from the control. Just one of the quirks.

DrEntropy,

Yeah, I’ve dealt with the mono valve issues. I actually just put in a Klima heater valve replacement that is excellent. (Mercedessource). However I have vacuum pod leaks on all but one vent, and the compressor froze a couple years ago. Can’t complain after 410,000 miles. I’m trying to get really psyched up to remove the dash so I can get at the pods and replace all the diaphragms and then do the compressor and diesel giant a/c kit.

The spigot heater valve on the TR2 is georgeous in comparison!

Steve

 

[DavidApp]

A good ground to both the sender unit and gauge is needed for the gauge to work correctly.

David