Lever Arm shocks

[sockeyedsushi]

I have a problem 74 1275 with the front end ride height and wheel rub. I read the last posting about front tires rubbing and measured the wheel to arch and found the left side lower than the right. Does the front end "ride" on the lever arms shocks in some way. The car has new bushings and springs, same tires as previous posting but the shocks have never been redone or even needed oil.
Cant figure it out. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/canpatriot.GIF

 

[AltaKnight]

No the lever arm shocks don't actualy do any supporting of the car just dampening the spring bounce.
The problem must be either the spring(s) are not the right height or stiffness or else it's something out of alignment in the suspension, frame or iron that supports the spring.
Of course if you're using wide wheels or tires or springs that are lower than standard then you'll be reducing the clearance to a point where any slight misalignment causes tire rub.
Did you have any rub before you replaced the bushings or springs?

 

[Trevor Jessie]

If you measure the rear wheel arches you may find a bigger difference in height there. If so, jack under the rear spring mount to level the rear, then check the front again. I'm guessing that the problem is actually in the rear springs.

 

[sockeyedsushi]

Yes, I did have the problem on the left side, that was why I replaced the springs. I will check the the parts again. Odd the ride height difference on the left side only. The springs were the same and the correct size for the car. It is easy to lower for better handling. Thanks for the input, I will try and figure it out.
bruce

 

[RobSelina]

bruce - I replaced my front springs with some 340lbs lowered springs and still sat a little drivers side and also had tire rub problems still. I did a conversion to tube shocks and that cured all my rubbing problems, but I'm certain the 0.3" difference in height on each side is due to bad rear springs. If you want to completely rid yourself of the problem replace your rear springs and either rebuild the lever arms up front or convert to tube shocks. I really recommend the conversion, my car handles great with the tube shocks.

 

[George Zeck]

Rob --

I am finalizing the last couple of items on my front end and am interested in the tube shock conversion -- can you share some details ?? (links, vendors, costs, welding ?, etc ...).

Tx-

Geo /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hammer.gif

 

[Trevor Jessie]

https://www.speedwellengineering.com has two different systems. They have the frontline version that replaces the upper link, and their own that uses the shock sans valve for the upper link.

 

[RobSelina]

Not a problem George.

First read Nial's writeup here:

https://npmccabe.tripod.com/spritetubeshock.htm

I did things a little different than Nial, but his way is definitely best.

Since I already had lowered comp springs, I kept the stock spring seat in it's existing position. I ran extended all-thread bolts and then clamped down the spring seat with some nuts. I then ran a small spacer (forget exact dimmensions) and then the T shaped adapters I made shown below were clamped down so that they would just barely clear the existing A arm lip.

They're made out of 1" square tubing with a 1/8" wall. I figured they'd be lighter than the solid stock mounts and it was scrap steel I had in the shed. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif I also used gabriel shocks instead of the NAPA shocks but that was purely based on local availability. The upper mounts were shock mounts I had left over from a project on one of my off road rigs. They're made by rubicon express, part # RE2020 https://www.rubiconexpress.com/dynamic/mainpage.asp?folderid=227

That's about it really. The improvement in handling was great.

 

[George Zeck]

Sounds great. Lot's of fab work -- I know some guys I'll run it by.

Tx-

George