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I have replaced the headlamps and tail lights on my 1960 Triumph TR3 with LED lights. What a difference!
I pried the bezel open at the 5 o'clock position with a curved tool. See this link for a few more details if need be: > TR2/3/3A - Removing the headlamp bezel rim <
The entire headlamp must be replaced on this year model. The old headlamp has a built-in 3-prong connector that plugs into a 3-prong receptacle connector on the car.
The new headlamps bulbs are as simple as "Plug & Play." They come with a 3-prong connector adaptor for the bulb. The bulb then inserts into a hollow glass headlamp provided by Moss Motors. This is why you need to get the headlamp housing for the bulb. See below for photos and Part Numbers for the headlamps.
Here is what your Moss Motors pre-checkout should look like:
As to the LED tail lights, they come with detailed instructions. However, the actual installation was quite simple on the TR3A. For example:
1) It tells you to drill out the rivets on the existing bulb holder. This was not necessary. Simply remove the bulb, then grab the bulb holder with pliers and move up & down several times until the metal weakens and breaks off. After all, the new LED lights are on spacers and rest well above where the old holder was attached.
The spacers did not readily fit on to the LED light circuit board. I had to trim around the outer edge of hole on the LED board with a small utility knife in order for the supplied spacer to fit into the hole. No big deal but you do have to do this step, otherwise the covering lens won't close. It does not have to look pretty. The screws hold the LED assembly and spacers in place.
The instructions also tell you that you need a special blnker. But this was not necessary on the TR3A because the tail lights do not blink. There are other lights in the rear for blinkers.
Connections to the TR3A:
1) The Blue Wire on the LED assembly goes to the Red wire(s) on the car.
2) The Red wire on the LED assembly to the other wire(s).
3) The Black Wire on the LED assembly to the frame of the car inside the trunk with a self-tapping screw. First, I scraped off the paint down to the metal for a good connection. I used the supplied round connector.
Click here to see Grogu try the same thing:
I soldered all connections for best results. I covered the soldered wires well with electrical tape. I did not use the spade connectors provided or the crimp connectors. You can if you wish.
This photo is from the Moss Motors catalogue. I struck through the items that I did not use with red marks.
The difference in conventional lights and LED is worth the expense of the upgrade. I live in deer country and could easily see the road.
I did not take a road photo, but this photo I have downloaded from an internet search is what it looks like:
I pried the bezel open at the 5 o'clock position with a curved tool. See this link for a few more details if need be: > TR2/3/3A - Removing the headlamp bezel rim <
The entire headlamp must be replaced on this year model. The old headlamp has a built-in 3-prong connector that plugs into a 3-prong receptacle connector on the car.
The new headlamps bulbs are as simple as "Plug & Play." They come with a 3-prong connector adaptor for the bulb. The bulb then inserts into a hollow glass headlamp provided by Moss Motors. This is why you need to get the headlamp housing for the bulb. See below for photos and Part Numbers for the headlamps.
Here is what your Moss Motors pre-checkout should look like:
As to the LED tail lights, they come with detailed instructions. However, the actual installation was quite simple on the TR3A. For example:
1) It tells you to drill out the rivets on the existing bulb holder. This was not necessary. Simply remove the bulb, then grab the bulb holder with pliers and move up & down several times until the metal weakens and breaks off. After all, the new LED lights are on spacers and rest well above where the old holder was attached.
The spacers did not readily fit on to the LED light circuit board. I had to trim around the outer edge of hole on the LED board with a small utility knife in order for the supplied spacer to fit into the hole. No big deal but you do have to do this step, otherwise the covering lens won't close. It does not have to look pretty. The screws hold the LED assembly and spacers in place.
The instructions also tell you that you need a special blnker. But this was not necessary on the TR3A because the tail lights do not blink. There are other lights in the rear for blinkers.
Connections to the TR3A:
1) The Blue Wire on the LED assembly goes to the Red wire(s) on the car.
2) The Red wire on the LED assembly to the other wire(s).
3) The Black Wire on the LED assembly to the frame of the car inside the trunk with a self-tapping screw. First, I scraped off the paint down to the metal for a good connection. I used the supplied round connector.
Click here to see Grogu try the same thing:
I soldered all connections for best results. I covered the soldered wires well with electrical tape. I did not use the spade connectors provided or the crimp connectors. You can if you wish.
This photo is from the Moss Motors catalogue. I struck through the items that I did not use with red marks.
The difference in conventional lights and LED is worth the expense of the upgrade. I live in deer country and could easily see the road.
I did not take a road photo, but this photo I have downloaded from an internet search is what it looks like:
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