Heater box assembly assistance

[RestoreThemAll]

I took it apart just a few weeks ago. No before pictures were taken because "I'll remember how it goes back together":highly_amused: Has anyone had their heater box apart recently?

1) there was felt on top and bottom of the heater core inside the box. What are people using to replace the felt?

2) The water valve mounting adapter has a groove that fits just inside the box. I thought that it had an o ring to retain it then I ran across an aluminum ring. which one should be used to retain the valve in the box? See heater core pic.

3) There are four holes in the bottom panel and two in the front of the box that I believe had no purpose. Just had screws plugging them. Is that correct?

4) which way does the bottom panel go? See side bottom panel pic. Do those notches go to the back or from?

5) what is a good material to use to seal the heater box to the plenum box?

 

[steveg]

I had mine apart a couple of years ago and don't remember the aluminum ring. These are my memories/guesses:
1) 1/4" foam tape
2) fat o-ring goes between valve and base adapter. I think the nipple on the core goes up through the adapter and is sealed by clamping the o-ring with the two screws on the valve.
3) other than the name plate, these are miscellaneous holes used by POs for mounting stuff, i.e. radio
4) notches go to back. When installing, you might need to leave the chassis mounting screws a little loose when you clamp the bottom up with the clips - so the bottom seats properly.
5) see 1)

Note: wish I had as nice a Smiths tag as yours.

Addendum: 4) above should be "notches go towards firewall"

Addendum #2 - observed on removal of heater per below - notches are on sides.

 

[RestoreThemAll]

Thanks for the quick response Steve. I was thinking foam for seals but wondered if it would take the heat of pressing on the radiator/heater core.

2) I have the fat oring assembly right. Its the part under the box top that I don't understand.

3) I searched the web and found pictures, none of which had a use for the hole. Screw plugs, done.

4) I had planned to put the bottom plate on before installing in the car. Should I not do that?

I bought a kit of stickers and plates, etc... so I have a new Smiths tag. The original in the pic is more pitted than the pic shows but I'm keeping it. I like a little patina.

While we're at it; would sealer or gasket material help seal the top and bottom plates to the box? The goal is to keep at much air pressure as possible all the way to the windshield.

 

[steveg]

Dale -
Don't glue the top and bottom plates - they seal just fine as-is.

See this document for installation notes:
https://www.healey6.com/Technical/Heater.pdf

 

[steveg]

A great general resource is Rich Berman's BN4 restoration project gallery. Most of the pictures there will be the same as your BJ7:
https://plus.google.com/photos/110087349657726745747/albums/5528813397849858337

 

[RestoreThemAll]

Both great sources of information. Thanks Steve.

I still don't have a pic or answer to the water valve mounting adapter. rich doesn't show the under side of that. I'm thinking that the o-ring with maybe a little coat of sealer to ensure it doesn't move should do the trick. Unless some else has a pic or thought?

 

[steveg]

Both great sources of information. Thanks Steve.

I still don't have a pic or answer to the water valve mounting adapter. rich doesn't show the under side of that. I'm thinking that the o-ring with maybe a little coat of sealer to ensure it doesn't move should do the trick. Unless some else has a pic or thought?

Dale - It's not necessary to seal between the adapter and the top. Forget that aluminum ring. If it was needed it would be shown in the Moss drawing.

This is from memory, so you can see if any of it is wrong by referring to your own parts:

Pushing the stub from the radiator through the hole in the top, slide the adapter down over the stub and seat it around the stub in the hole; insert an o-ring* around the stub into the recess of the adapter; screw the valve down through the adapter with the two 10-32 screws into the captive nuts on the bottom of the top.

Sometimes you can insert a second o-ring, but I don't think that's necessary.

*These are the same fat o-rings used to organize the spark plug wires.

Install the hoses.

Testing - you can fill it with water, plug the output hose (#119 Moss) and apply not more than 10 lbs pressure to the input hose - that will show any leaks.

PS - I may remove my heater in the next few days; if so will verify & correct any of the above as needed.

 

[RestoreThemAll]

Thanks Steve. I completely understand the top side of the valve and its adapter. I pulled the adapter back out and am 99% sure that the aluminum ring is a retainer for the adapter. See pics. As a retainer I doubt that it did much sealing. I agree that it's not a critical piece. I put it back together with an o-ring coated lightly with sealer. Once it's all put together I doubt that anything is going to move around much.

I also added the 1/4" foam between the heater core and the outside box as you suggested. Fits nice and snug. I bought a new valve and the o-ring that goes between the valve and the adapter so I shouldn't have an issue there.

 

[steveg]

Surprised your top has no holes for the screws - as are shown in the Moss drawing. So the whole thing is held in place by the o-ring being clamped between the valve and base and against the heater core stub.

 

[RestoreThemAll]

I would say that there's a great deal of pressure on the top side o-ring (adapter to valve) to the heater core stub. The top plate is also bolted to the heater core a few inches away. I can see why the aluminum ring was used as a retainer but there isn't one available. I think it'll be fine.

I'm curious to know what you find when you pull yours apart Steve.

 

[RestoreThemAll]

Almost finished. One last question. There are three spring clips that hold the box together. Why only one for the back? From the pics I've seen the one rear clip goes on the drivers side back corner. That leaves the other side loose. The Moss cat shows only three clips. Doesn't make sense.

 

[steveg]

My car came (to me) with 5 clips: 2 on the left; 2 in front on either side of the Smiths tag; 1 on the right; none on firewall side (no room there anyway).

Anderson/Moment shows the 2 in front. You could get by with 4: 2 in front and 1 on either side towards the firewall.

They are available from Moss.

 

[bob hughes]

My car came with three clips - after removing the box and looking at them for a while I suddenly realized that the fourth was holding the top of the dizzy on, I knew that the dizzy was not correct for a long time and with the engine out I could replace it for the correct one so ordered the one for the dizzy and resolved my problem with the heater box.



Bob

 

[steveg]

Removed my heater today. I have a ring like yours and no extra holes as those shown in the Moss dwg.
The clamping force of the 2 screws and the o-ring, with the peg in the slot is plenty to keep the valve from shifting.
PS - the hose from the right side of the engine to the heater valve is 25-1/2"; hose from heater to copper pipe on left is 18"

 

[RestoreThemAll]

Thanks guys. I did order more spring clips for the box. Makes sense.

Steve, thanks for the update and pics. I had to pull my retainer ring out which deformed it. The screws where rusted and broke off. I had to drill them out on the drill press and clean up the threads. I don't know how a new ring would go back in. Maybe a c clip would work. I agree that the clamping of the o ring on top of the box should hold it.

 

[steveg]

Thanks guys. I did order more spring clips for the box. Makes sense.

Steve, thanks for the update and pics. I had to pull my retainer ring out which deformed it. The screws where rusted and broke off. I had to drill them out on the drill press and clean up the threads. I don't know how a new ring would go back in. Maybe a c clip would work. I agree that the clamping of the o ring on top of the box should hold it.

You could make a clamping clip out of some coat-hanger or other mild steel wire.

 

[RestoreThemAll]

A 5/8" retaining ring worked OK as a replacement for the unavailable retainer ring on the heater water valve adapter.