prb51
Luke Skywalker
Offline
The kit is in and test driven and really works as it should. I can turn the wheels lock to lock with the car stationary. The driving is nicer too, I'd rebuilt the TR3 steering and complete front end and it was tight (no slop) but the R&P has eliminated any wander over irregular surfaces and is finger tip steering. Very nice.
The kit is available from BPNW and some other vendors. Look under TR3/steering
https://www.bpnorthwest.com
I required the solid column conversion and it comes with everything you need...upper outer/inner steering column and the articulated lower portion. Also the bolt that replaces the starter bolt and the piece that fills the pulley with new lock nuts.
I pulled the apron (marked all wires), removed the rad, pulled each brake & hub.
Removed the complete steering system.
I spent a lot of time with the electrical portion that consists of a plastic sleeve that fits over the upper column (non moving that the body wires attach to).
This has each ind wire soldered (RT,LT,Horn,Blinker)
https://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc138/prb51/DSC01285.jpg
It has a sleeve portion that the stator tube wires (no tube) press fit into with brass plungers that ride on the brass bands, it moves with the wheel...here it is mounted
https://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc138/prb51/DSC01286.jpg
I had to fiddle with it a bit but it works very well and the wires are secure and cannot snag...the horn/turn signals do rotate with the wheel but operate normally.
The mounts drop into the frame where you removed the steering box/idler arm. Use the original bolts/holes precut.The R&P fits in nicely
https://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc138/prb51/DSC01283.jpg
You have to adjust the length of each column element but there is built in play. Everything dropped in nicely and though close there was no interference.
I did have to remove the upper/lower hose with center pipe and use a universal flex hose (goodyear 55092 flex hose)that fit very well with a little trimmed at the lower rad.
I had my bud weld some alloy mounts on the rad and mounted a 12" fan with thermostat
https://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc138/prb51/DSC01289.jpg
To get the distance you need for the R&P arms you remove the drop arms from the wheel hubs and reverse them (left to right etc.)..they are oriented the normal way but you use a provided 22mm spacer up front and the stock rear spacer plus a 7mm spacer on the rear...all spacers and longer bolts provided.
https://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc138/prb51/DSC01281.jpg
https://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc138/prb51/DSC01282.jpg
This orients the drop arms outwards twds the disc and gives you alignment room...straightfwd but not a step I thought I'd need to do so regreased all bearings at that time.
https://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc138/prb51/DSC01287.jpg
https://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc138/prb51/DSC01288.jpg
Slapped everything back together, set the alignment and went for a drive...takes some time but for me worth the effort.
I wish I'd taken better pics but I get busy and forget until it's too late, my bad.
The kit is available from BPNW and some other vendors. Look under TR3/steering
https://www.bpnorthwest.com
I required the solid column conversion and it comes with everything you need...upper outer/inner steering column and the articulated lower portion. Also the bolt that replaces the starter bolt and the piece that fills the pulley with new lock nuts.
I pulled the apron (marked all wires), removed the rad, pulled each brake & hub.
Removed the complete steering system.
I spent a lot of time with the electrical portion that consists of a plastic sleeve that fits over the upper column (non moving that the body wires attach to).
This has each ind wire soldered (RT,LT,Horn,Blinker)
https://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc138/prb51/DSC01285.jpg
It has a sleeve portion that the stator tube wires (no tube) press fit into with brass plungers that ride on the brass bands, it moves with the wheel...here it is mounted
https://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc138/prb51/DSC01286.jpg
I had to fiddle with it a bit but it works very well and the wires are secure and cannot snag...the horn/turn signals do rotate with the wheel but operate normally.
The mounts drop into the frame where you removed the steering box/idler arm. Use the original bolts/holes precut.The R&P fits in nicely
https://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc138/prb51/DSC01283.jpg
You have to adjust the length of each column element but there is built in play. Everything dropped in nicely and though close there was no interference.
I did have to remove the upper/lower hose with center pipe and use a universal flex hose (goodyear 55092 flex hose)that fit very well with a little trimmed at the lower rad.
I had my bud weld some alloy mounts on the rad and mounted a 12" fan with thermostat
https://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc138/prb51/DSC01289.jpg
To get the distance you need for the R&P arms you remove the drop arms from the wheel hubs and reverse them (left to right etc.)..they are oriented the normal way but you use a provided 22mm spacer up front and the stock rear spacer plus a 7mm spacer on the rear...all spacers and longer bolts provided.
https://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc138/prb51/DSC01281.jpg
https://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc138/prb51/DSC01282.jpg
This orients the drop arms outwards twds the disc and gives you alignment room...straightfwd but not a step I thought I'd need to do so regreased all bearings at that time.
https://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc138/prb51/DSC01287.jpg
https://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc138/prb51/DSC01288.jpg
Slapped everything back together, set the alignment and went for a drive...takes some time but for me worth the effort.
I wish I'd taken better pics but I get busy and forget until it's too late, my bad.