TR6 twin dgvs on a tr6

[samstr]

i have installed a pair of weber dgvs on my 72 tr6 and i am having trouble setting up the linkage. i cant seem to find a way to get full throttle. i have designed a custom cable setup and i'm getting close but would love to hear any ideas. also any advice on tuning and jetting would be great. it seems to be running rich (plugs are black and sooty) and has an off idle hesitation (or possibly flooding). i am a carb idiot so please forgive me. the engine is strong with good compression. i'm also new to this site so thanks in advance for any help, and hopfully i will be able to find my way back and read any answers. samstr

 

[DNK]

Welcome Sam.
One of our people is a DGV guy. Maybe he'll chime in. He's been spotty lately

 

[poolboy]

Unless the carbs were previously owned and that person changed the jets, you should have the correct jets. They are marked so you could see what's in there
https://www.webercarbsdirect.com/v/vspfiles/weber_carburetor_schematics/3236DGV.pdf
Troubleshooting Guide:
https://www.webercarbsdirect.com/v/vspfiles/images/Weber%20Trouble%20Shooting%20Guide.pdf

 

[hondo402000]

I dont think he was asking about jets he was asking about the linkage not opening the butterflys all the way

Hondo

 

[Darrell_Walker]

Pictures of your linkage might help, but basically you need more throw on the "pulling" end (longer lever arm), or less on the other end (shorter lever arm).

 

[poolboy]

I dont think he was asking about jets he was asking about the linkage not opening the butterflys all the way

Hondo

Both,,,and more, Hondo.

 

[hondo402000]

oops sorry dont know how I missed the jetting part, I had DGV on a volvo I had long time ago, A weber book would help you in the jetting process, my book does not discuss the DGV's. As far as butter flys, there is a bolt inside the car behind the peddle on the fire wall that you can adjust to get more peddle movement if its already screwed all the way in then you will have to adjust the linkage, Move the attachment part on the linkage at the carb closer in and you get more movement, thats if they are like mine and you have a couple of holes as choises, like Darryl says pics would help

Hondo

 

[Brosky]

Samstr, welcome to the forum. We should see a few pictures of what you are working with to better advise you.

Perhaps you may want to look at this setup from Ratco. It may be the answer to your problem.

Ratco Cable Installation

And you will want to make sure that the bushings in the firewall are not worn and causing a bind in the throttle pedal shaft. Here is an easy fix for that.

Throttle Pedal Shaft Bushings

 

[DNK]

Pic of what Paul says

 

[Brosky]

Yeah, yeah....that's the ticket!

Perfect post Don.

 

[samstr]

first what is the height of throttle pedal, ican get the throttle wide open but my pedal is higher than the brake. next my setup is opposit yours, if i run the linkage to the carbs under the pivot bar it binds from idle also my turnbuckles from linkage to carb don't appear to be that long. i will take some pics and see if i can figure out how to post them. finally what should the jets be, i boughtt these carbs new from redline and they have not been modified. sam

 

[poolboy]

I posted a link with the jet sizes listed. See "ORIGINAL SETTINGS". Those are the ones you need in a TR6 judging from the 2 sets of DGV's on TR6's that I've had the opportunity to examine and drive.
The troubleshooting guide I also posted should help once you get the linkage figured out.

 

[samstr]

how do you add pics

 

[DNK]

Photobucket or the like or
https://www.britishcarforum.com/bcforum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=randomtip

 

[samstr]

ok i think i have got the linkage figured out. now two questions, how important is the cooling system hookup to the manifolds, i had it hooked up but discovered a blockage so no coolant was passing through and should i have a vacuum line from the dist. to the carbs. i don't, i was told earlier to plug it. thanks for the help so far, the pics were nice but my setup is just opposite, printed the trouble shooting guide, great. still can't figure out how to load pics, computer stupid.

 

[poolboy]

The coolant flowing thru the manifold more or less stabilizes the temperature which probably does have a positive effect on the quality of the fuel mist.. With the Pierce manifold adaptor, I'm not sure it plays as an important of a role. Try it..
You have a 72, so your distributor, if original, will only have a Vacuum Retard module attached to it. The nipple on the module can simply be left open to the atmosphere. There is no Vacuum inside the Module, but if it makes you feel better, a cap does no harm.
You will need to relieve the crankcase pressure by connecting the Valve Cover Vent to the underside of at least one of your air filter housings

 

[samstr]

the vacuum has been capped from the start, i have fixed the coolant flow blockage, now waiting for a new radiator so can't start it yet. the valve cover vent runs to the carbon canister isn't that proper

 

[poolboy]

No you need suction.The carbon canister is just a container with activated charcoal filter for absorbing hydrocarbon fumes.
The ZS carbs provided the suction to keep the fumes moving thru the charcoal as well as sucking on the Valve Cover vent to reduce the crankcase pressure.
You'll have to come up with something. Didn't your lower air cleaner housing come with plastic nipples you can use to attach the valve cover hose ?

 

[samstr]

they do have the nipples should i run just to the air cleaners or tee them to the canister or just get rid of the canister altogether. no emissions inspection are required

 

[poolboy]

Actually running the vent to just one air cleaner should be enough and keep things neater. It doesn't require a lot of suction, just enough to establish a pressure differential between what has built up under the valve cover and to where you want to attract it.

You don't need to go to the canister with Vacuum. You may want to keep the canister to provide some place for the gas tank vent to end up.


However, a lot of people just let the gas tank vent hang naturally open to the atmosphere, some others claim they can smell the gas vapor and leave the vent hose on the canister for whatever deodorizing the carbon may provide.But again no Vacuum reguired for that.
If you had a post 72 car there was an Anti Run-on Valve connected to the canister, but you'd have to still have the ZS carbs for it to work.
So either way the Canister is removeable..your choice. I know it was eliminated on both my cars and I still had the ZS carbs