BJ7 Side Window Alignment

[HealeyRick]

How do I fix my driver's side window sealing problem? Passenger side aligns perfectly, but the driver's leaves room for a flood to enter. I tried bending the vent wind frame inwards, but then the window wouldn't raise and lower in the track. Also tried re-aligning the door without any luck. Any ideas welcome.

 

[vette]

Rick, it’s been a while since I looked at that but most times that kind of window adjustment is done inside the door by moving the track in different directions. As an example to get the window to move in at the top you would adjust the very bottom of the track outboard.

 

[AUSMHLY]

Also look into shimming the frame. It will change how the top aligns with the glass.

 

[HealeyRick]

I did play around with moving the track inward and outward and that didn't help much. When I got the car, the top had been removed when the car had been a racecar and there were no shims around when I put the top back on. Shimming might be worth a shot, it could tilt the top, further to the driver side.

 

[AUSMHLY]

You can make shims or use flat washers. After trial and error with shimming, next try adjusting the wood. You may need to reshape the wood by adding some or reshaping then possibly repositioning with shims to bring it out or angle it to meet the glass. Once the wood is in the right place, you many need to adjust the aluminum rail that the rubber seal attaches to. Lots of area's to adjust. Window track, top frame, wood and aluminum rails.

 

[bob hughes]

Just a point here, when you say that you have adjusted the track, did you do the front and the back of the window, or is it the front that you are concerned with.



Bob

 

[HealeyRick]

Just a point here, when you say that you have adjusted the track, did you do the front and the back of the window, or is it the front that you are concerned with.



Bob

I fooled around with both the front and rear tracks. The front of the window lines up ok with the vent window, but the rear sits out about an inch from the top.

 

[vette]

Rick, I was just looking at your pictures again. The abnormal gap at the rear of your window to the convertible top is pretty extreme. As you know small changes can mean a lot. I am wondering if your door is closed all the way. I have noticed that many times the Healey's door latch mechanism isn't that precise and allows the door to move outward even tho it is latched. It is very difficult to fix that but maybe a small adjustment to your door latch could help. Also looking at the plane that the window pane is in looks like it is not consistent from the front to the back. Could be just an allusion from the picture but I have to ask does it feel like your window is in a bind now. I looks to me that your rear track needs to be moved outward at the bottom a lot. But again, small changes can go a long way and if the door is closed more this all can help. You may have to make a non-standard shimming effect at the bottom to push the track outward more. I believe you can move the tracks and window around until you would notice a binding of the window. If it is in a bind now then moving things will help all, if it is not in a bind now then move things until a binding situation occurs. I'm hoping that adjusting the door latch and shimming the track can reduce the gap to acceptable level. I might suggest that when you shim/move the rear track that you also loosen and allow the front track to come into some sort of compliance with the whole system.

 

[HealeyRick]

Thanks for your advice, Dave. I'll give it a shot.

 

[Patrick67BJ8]

I fooled around with both the front and rear tracks. The front of the window lines up ok with the vent window, but the rear sits out about an inch from the top.

Have you fixed your window alignment problem? My passenger window has a similar problem but not quite as bad as yours.
Thanks

 

[Jerry]

Related question for the experts here. I am not to the door window but I am working on the wind wing window. I am having trouble keeping the rubber in the track. part of it comes out if I open the wind wing. Did you use glue to keep it in place?

 

[AUSMHLY]

Related question for the experts here. I am not to the door window but I am working on the wind wing window. I am having trouble keeping the rubber in the track. part of it comes out if I open the wind wing. Did you use glue to keep it in place?

Jerry, should not have to use glue.
Is the vent window alignment ok?
Is the rubber new? Some suppliers have better rubber and fit then others.
Try some spray silicon.

 

[AUSMHLY]

Have you fixed your window alignment problem? My passenger window has a similar problem but not quite as bad as yours.
Thanks

Patrick, check this link out. To some degree, I address window issues.

Door Latch Adjustment

Read the above door solutions but I think my problem is not in alignment, per se. My problem is that in order for the door to stay closed, I have to slam the door hard. Checked the inside trim around the bottom where it meets the door when closing and that does not seem to be the issue. I...

www.britishcarforum.com

 

[Patrick67BJ8]

Patrick, check this link out. To some degree, I address window issues.

Door Latch Adjustment

Read the above door solutions but I think my problem is not in alignment, per se. My problem is that in order for the door to stay closed, I have to slam the door hard. Checked the inside trim around the bottom where it meets the door when closing and that does not seem to be the issue. I...

www.britishcarforum.com

Roger, my door seems to be in propped adjustment since the swag line and door gap are very good. It is the rear curved area on the door glass that is sticking out about a half inch. The weatherstripping seal is good fit until getting near the “sticking out” curved area of the glass.

I have removed the window and window regulator mechanism for work. The regulator will be replaced with a new one. The front part of the glass was supposedly glued in its channel with new nylon guides about seven years or so ago, but whatever the shop used was non-hardening sealant and is still pliable and it will need to removed and an adhesive used in its place.

The window channel has some tight areas in it and I’m going to have to adjust the opening of the channel to allow the window to slide without binding.

 

[HealeyRick]

Have you fixed your window alignment problem? My passenger window has a similar problem but not quite as bad as yours.
Thanks

Patrick,

I've played around with it a bit and got some improvement. I'm installing a new top and want to see if adding some spacers to the mounting point will help.

 

[Patrick67BJ8]

Patrick,

I've played around with it a bit and got some improvement. I'm installing a new top and want to see if adding some spacers to the mounting point will help.

Healeyrick, please take s,one photos fir us all to see! Thank you!

 

[AUSMHLY]

Roger, my door seems to be in propped adjustment since the swag line and door gap are very good. It is the rear curved area on the door glass that is sticking out about a half inch. The weatherstripping seal is good fit until getting near the “sticking out” curved area of the glass.

I have removed the window and window regulator mechanism for work. The regulator will be replaced with a new one. The front part of the glass was supposedly glued in its channel with new nylon guides about seven years or so ago, but whatever the shop used was non-hardening sealant and is still pliable and it will need to removed and an adhesive used in its place.

The window channel has some tight areas in it and I’m going to have to adjust the opening of the channel to allow the window to slide without binding.

Patrick, please take s,one photos fir us all to see! Thank you!

The glass is held in place with glazing strips, Moss #680-307, other vendors should have them too.

You can check the window channel guide by sliding the end of a socket in it. Wrap tape around a pair of flat needle-nose pilers to separate or close the channel.

 

[Patrick67BJ8]

This is the best photo I have. I have removed the glass and window regulator.
At the ends of the red outline the weatherstripping seal fits, but the gap starts to increase until the gap is about 1/2” at the middle of the curve.

 

[AUSMHLY]

Patrick, can you take some close up photos?

It appears the top front of the glass is too high.
1) It should be level with the vent window frame.
2) It appears to have pushed though the top corner rubber tip (which should be flush with the top of the vent frame, which yours is). The rubber tip has a rubber top, glass should be adjusted to meet that top, not bow it up or push though it.

The front nylon guide doesn't appear to be in the channel track at the top. If that's true, it's tilting the rear of the glass down.
I think once you get the nylon guide in the track and the front glass is at the correct height, that may help correct the current angle (rear too low, front too high).

"It is the rear curved area on the door glass that is sticking out about a half inch. The weatherstripping seal is good fit until getting near the “sticking out” curved area of the glass."

Does "sticking out" mean the glass is 1/2" out away from the rubber seal?
Or is the glass 1/2" away from the top curve of the hardtop?
Can you take some close up photos of that? Example, rear edge of the glass looking forward.

"The window channel has some tight areas in it and I’m going to have to adjust the opening of the channel to allow the window to slide without binding."

Confirm both the front and rear tracks allow the glass with the guide on it will travel up/down by hand. You can do that by removing the front track with the glass in it and trying sliding it in the track while it's outside the door. Then pull the glass out of the front track and slide the glass in the rear track that's still in the car. If that works, the tracks should be OK.

The tracks maybe out of alignment.
The front and rear channels are curved the same as the glass. If the channels positions aren't mirrored, the glass will bind somewhere in the tracks. Example, if the rear channel is set with the top all the way to the inside of the door and the bottom is to the outside that angles the glass to the interior. If the front channel is reversed; top to the outside, bottom to the inside, the glass will angle to the outside. When trying to roll the glass up, it will bind somewhere because the tracks are not mirrored.

 

[Patrick67BJ8]

Patrick, can you take some close up photos?

It appears the top front of the glass is too high.
1) It should be level with the vent window frame.
2) It appears to have pushed though the top corner rubber tip (which should be flush with the top of the vent frame, which yours is). The rubber tip has a rubber top, glass should be adjusted to meet that top, not bow it up or push though it.

The front nylon guide doesn't appear to be in the channel track at the top. If that's true, it's tilting the rear of the glass down.
I think once you get the nylon guide in the track and the front glass is at the correct height, that may help correct the current angle (rear too low, front too high).

"It is the rear curved area on the door glass that is sticking out about a half inch. The weatherstripping seal is good fit until getting near the “sticking out” curved area of the glass."

Does "sticking out" mean the glass is 1/2" out away from the rubber seal?
Or is the glass 1/2" away from the top curve of the hardtop?
Can you take some close up photos of that? Example, rear edge of the glass looking forward.

"The window channel has some tight areas in it and I’m going to have to adjust the opening of the channel to allow the window to slide without binding."

Confirm both the front and rear tracks allow the glass with the guide on it will travel up/down by hand. You can do that by removing the front track with the glass in it and trying sliding it in the track while it's outside the door. Then pull the glass out of the front track and slide the glass in the rear track that's still in the car. If that works, the tracks should be OK.

The tracks maybe out of alignment.
The front and rear channels are curved the same as the glass. If the channels positions aren't mirrored, the glass will bind somewhere in the tracks. Example, if the rear channel is set with the top all the way to the inside of the door and the bottom is to the outside that angles the glass to the interior. If the front channel is reversed; top to the outside, bottom to the inside, the glass will angle to the outside. When trying to roll the glass up, it will bind somewhere because the tracks are not mirrored.

* I am going to repair the glass & channel where you see the guide sticking out. Parts on order.
* I am ordering new weatherstripping seals for the hardtop so I have a smooth and consistent fit on the glass.
*”Sticking out” is 1/2” away from the weatherstripping seal. I can’t take any photos because it’s all dismantled.
* I will check the channels as you suggested in doing.
* The front channel/vent window frame….I will use a socket and pliers to check the channels for proper consistency to be sure there’s no binding and the window slides easily in both channels and check to be sure the the channels are mirrored when I get all of the parts I ordered. Best way is probably going to be starting from scratch!