TR2/3/3A Crankshaft thrust washers, 60 TR3

[Tinkerman]

So I got my correct size bearings and the crank fits as it should. I installed some standard thrust washers and found that the end play measured out to .0085. Manual says it should be .004 to .006. I ordered some .005 oversize washers (smallest I could get) if it is to much of a correction is there a way to take some off the washers? Seems I have seen a picture from one of the manuals about sanding with emery cloth. Any experience out there?
Thanks, Tinkerman

 

[PeterK]

You can polish a little off the thrust washers by putting emery paper on a perfectly flat surface (some use glass, but I use a granite 12x12 tile polished smooth). Lightly oil the washer with 3in1 and press lightly as you move the thrustwasher in a figure 8 pattern across the emery paper. Check it with a mic or dial caliper until the desired thickness is reached. Make sure to keep the thrustwasher in 100% contact with the abrasive and double check the thickness in several spots to make sure.

 

[martx-5]

Yes, I have that picture in my TR3 Service Instruction Manual. They can be "rubbed down on emery paper". It looks like the paper is on a flat service, and the mechanic is "rubbing it down" with his fingers. It mentions that "this must be only be carried out on the Steel Side."

You only have .0005" to take off to get to .004" end play, so it shouldn't be too much work.

 

[Tinkerman]

Thanks to both of you for your comments. I did find the illustration and the comments in the manual.

Cheers, Tinkerman

 

[TRTEL]

A bit of advice I would add is when you get your oversize set take one pair and mix with the std. set and measure. You may luck out and not have to grind off anything. The difference in thickness of the steel backing is of no consequence. I'll assume you're using an engine stand for assembly so for initial measurements just do the non-tabbed bearings without bolting up the maincap. Then if you do have to grind, grind on one oversize untabbed bearing and remeasure. Then grind a tabbed oversize bearing to match the untabbed one and then snug up the main cap with all the bearings and measure again. Finally if you do have to grind put the bearings you ground on the FRONT side of the main cap. Reason is no matter how good your measurements appear to be you simply won't be as uniform as a machined part. The front bearings obviously just take up space, but the rear ones have to absorb the load of depressing those nine nasty springs in your clutch (especially heavy duty ones) everytime you push the pedal. So if you were to leave a high spot of say .0001 that spot will get hot and start to melt. I never have understood this design for thrust washers (why they didn't make them just a bit larger) and which is why over the past decade or so I've switched used Vp bearings from the front side (when good) to the backside. They are still superior in that spot.
Tom Lains
TS8651 & 58107

 

[Don Elliott]

I didn't have a granite plate, but I had heard about using a piece of flat glass. So I went to the local plate glass shop and told him that I wanted a piece about 10" square and about 3/4" thick. He had a scrap piece in a rubbish bin somewhere and trimmed it to size for me. The cost ? FREE ! That was nice of him.

 

[Tinkerman]

Thanks to all of you for your thoughts. I got the 5 thousands oversize today, put one set in and my DTI now reads .0045 which, as far as I'm concerned, is perfect. Yea!

Cheers, Tinkerman