Steering wheel removal

[Newkie]

I am taking the Steering wheel off this weekend and instead of using the two person hammer method shown by John Twist in one of his you tube videos, I am going to just rent or purchase a puller. Are their threaded holes in MGB steering wheel hub for those, or what? I am at work, so I dont have it in front of me and wanted to pick one up on the way home. Whats a good one to get if I do decide on purchase?

Thanks in advance

Art (aka Newkie)

 

[MGZT260]

Without actually looking at mine a quick review of what Moss has available and I think it will depend on what year your B is, as they only sell pullers for '77-80 plastic wheels and from the pic it clamps above and below wheel, using threaded rod to "pull".

, I would refer you back to the one-two-or three person and a hammer method. Sok up with penetrant the night before, loosen the nut about half thread but leave in place, select a punch that is almost as big as inside of nut, and while two other people apply upward tension to whell swing away with heavy hammer, making sure not to hit your friends or yourself in the process. I have done this many times alone using my knees to apply pressure , doesn't always work but certainly can in a pinch. Clean up the splines and apply anti-seize before reinstall.

 

[Newkie]

Alright, I bought a puller at the local hardware store that I believe is used for gears, it had 3 claws and the center punch that goes on the the center where the nut comes off. It came off after some finageling.
Heres what it looks like if interested. I used a 4", but after using this one on mine, you might want to go up a size. 6", 7".

https://images.toolspot.co.uk/Car/Quality%202%20and%203%20Leg%20Gear%20Puller.jpg

Good luck with yours if you ever need to remove your steering wheel. This only cost me 8.99. Next size up was 12.99. Still cheaper than a steering wheel puller at Autozone, and no damage.

Thanks

Art

 

[Stewart]

Buy either a 3 arm or 2 arm one. They are pretty cheap and really come in handy for other stuff. Size wise your going to have to go by your eye but a 3 or 4" one should do. Get a beefy one not the stamped sheetmetal one some of the places sell. Basicly the arms hook to the back of the hub and lock on as you start to tighten the puller. If your looking for one you can bolt to the hub a harmonic dampener puller is the one you want.

 

[Stewart]

woops should of posted quicker

 

[Newkie]

Thanks, I took the other back and at least know which one to buy the next time, or at the very least, tell you guys which size will work. Like I said, 4" was a little small, but I got it to work. Use the next size or two up.

Art

 

[Newkie]

Heres another question. Would it hurt to put a washer under the nut? I know one didnt come off at the time but seems like one wouldnt hurt, and might be better. Also, this is a Moto Lita steering wheel thats going on, do you know how to use the horn and turn signal canceler with this or other similar wheels. I see there is a clip connected to the purple wire (not sure if thats the horn wire, or not at the moment), and it doesnt make contact with the back of the Steering wheel adapter. Thanks, anybody that has put an after market wheel on might be able to help me.

Thanks

Art

 

[Stewart]

Look at the base of the stock wheel and you should see copper ring mounted in plastic on the bottom of it. You should be able to transfer that to the new hub. Before you do that take out the copper piece and solder a length of wire to it that is long enough to reach the horn button. Reinstall it in the plastic clip and then use the 2 screws to attach it to the new hub.

Purple is the horn wire it should end at the top of the column with a point contact that's on a piece of spring steel. Clean the point on it along with the copper ring on the bottom of the hub and make sure when you install the wheel it makes firm contact with the point.

 

[PAUL161]

You'll possibly do less damage to the hub, such as scratches and marring of the bottom lip, If you use the hammer method as John Twist suggests. It doesn't take a sledge hammer to break the wheel loose, just a few taps on the shaft and some pulling pressure on the wheel. I put the nut even with the shaft end and use a 1 inch piece of aluminum round stock to strike. No damage to anything.

 

[DrEntropy]

Yup. Aluminum or brass hammer, pull evenly from three points (two knees and left hand are my three choices) and tap the shaft/nut combo as Paul suggests.

 

[Newkie]

Look at the base of the stock wheel and you should see copper ring mounted in plastic on the bottom of it. You should be able to transfer that to the new hub. Before you do that take out the copper piece and solder a length of wire to it that is long enough to reach the horn button. Reinstall it in the plastic clip and then use the 2 screws to attach it to the new hub.

Purple is the horn wire it should end at the top of the column with a point contact that's on a piece of spring steel. Clean the point on it along with the copper ring on the bottom of the hub and make sure when you install the wheel it makes firm contact with the point.

Actually, I figured it out. Moto Lita added a wire that is soldered to its own brass contact at the back of the adapter, and it gets connected via a nut at the horn button. I just needed to pull the contact out enough to make enough contact. I also used that 3 claw pulller pictured in the above post to pull the wheel off. Alls good that ends good.

Thanks for the help and advice.

Art

 

[Newkie]

Also, is anybody interested in trading a turn signal switch for a 73B for the stock steeling wheel that I just pulled off. It is in good condition. I will post pictures tomorrow, but its the normal black and silver stock wheels that is the most common amongst MGB's.

Thanks

Art