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Engine compartment...she's done?

AUSMHLY

Obi Wan
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I wanted to take a moment and share a snap shot of my engine compartment. First project just completed last night. With your help, I believe I've got it pretty close to stock. If you notice anything I've done incorrectly, please let me know. If you need a close up photo of a certain area, I'll gladly snap more. Cheers everyone, and again, with the help of all the nice people here, I'm enjoying this restoration. Roger
 
Roger,

Looking great!

2 things I notice. The brackets that bolt to the intake manifold and hold the carb springs and front choke bracket should be black (I'm almost sure anyway .. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif best check the concours guidelines for that). And the nylon part that is the bearing for the front end of the throttle shaft looks yellow/old. I would change that for a new one as they can easily crack.

Cheers,
John
 
Outstanding job! A few minor things that I quickly noticed:
1. You're missing the mounting strap for the temperature guage capillary tube. See Norman Noch's Tech Talk (2006) p. 114.
2. Missing the decal for the overdrive relay. See British Car Specialist catalog, p. 11.
3. Couldn't see it--do you have the yellow Lucas England Patented wiring harness label on the main wiring harness near the firewall?
4. The short, flexible rubber breather hose pipe is painted engine green.
5. The voltage regulator is missing its decal? Can't really tell due to shadows.

If you post more pics, maybe others will find more things. Really a nice job.

Rob
 
Did you notice the horns are mounted correctly 'inboard' /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

Roger, if you need the red overdrive relay label I have one for you. I bought one but found out the earlier relays with the screw on connectors don't get one. Just email me your address. My original yellow Lucas label was mainly hidden under the P clip below the firewall choke bracket. Keeps it clean that way!

BTW, did you do anything special to clean up your carb dash pots? I've tried a few things to clean them up without polishing them and it's hard to get a good original finish.

Cheers,
John
 
[ QUOTE ]
John,

That was the first thing that I looked for. Inboard,yes. Got it.

Rob

[/ QUOTE ]

But seem like they the wrong horns and harnessed incorectly-Keoke- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
Hi ASUMHLY, that looks good. What are those funny things runing up behind the fluid reservoir to the front Carb?. an the heat shield should be engine color--Keoke- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
Hi Roger – Lots of effort is shown in this wonderfully detailed job./ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif Now on the next one…is the door chrome waist molding fitment working out? Was Brad able to assist? GONZO
 
And now for some real trivia. According to the Restoration Guide and Inspection Standards (Jan. 1994) P. 21 states: "The reservoir ...is secured with a zinc-plated square nut and round-headed slotted screw". This has been on my car since the early 70s, according to a club member that was the second owner. I was researching an answer for a question that I posted earlier. Can't see the nut on the bracket, but the screw looks to be phillips or pozi-drive. This really is nit-picky, but fun.

Rob
 
Keoke,

They look like 9H Lucas horns to me. What are you seeing that I'm not? Since my horns are enroute for repair, now is the time to fix wiring et al. before installation. No matter what, few things make the heart beat faster than a finely detailed engine bay. i think that it looks awesome.

Rob
 
In researching an answer to my own question-post, I noticed that the bracket securing the brake-clutch cannister to the shroud pillar is painted black on your car. In the Jan. 1994 Restoration Guide and Inspection Standards, p. 21 states: "The black band in turn is fastened to a body-colored bracket with two body-colored phillips-head screws". Thus the bracket should be body color.

Rob
 
[ QUOTE ]
"The reservoir ...is secured with a zinc-plated square nut and round-headed slotted screw". ...Can't see the nut on the bracket, but the screw looks to be phillips or pozi-drive.

[/ QUOTE ]

Rob, The zinc-plated square nut and round-head slotted screw are what clamps the band around the reservoir (inboard side)so the nut should be in plain view. The black band is fastened to the body color bracket with a hex head bolt and nut.

Cheers,
John
 
nice job...you should feel proud.

BTW, my BN6 has a decal on the brake fluid reservoir, don't know if the BJ8 does?
 
BJ8s have a small, white, 1/8th inch pressure transfer decal towards the bottom of the cannister stating: BRAKE CLUTCH. The decal is on this car.

Rob
 
This is great feedback.

John: My bracket was black. I was told it should be engine color. So I changed that. If you know for sure it should be black, then I change it back. Can you confirm? Yup, I cleaned that plastic and yellow it stayed. It looks ok, but maybe I should replace.

Rob: 1: The Johnbull strap is used. I notice two ways to hold the capillary tube. One is the strap goes though the circle as Norman shows and the other is the way I have it, with the circle free and the strap wrap around the heater hose and the capillary tube. Wonder if that is a deal breaker?
2: I spoke with David Nock about that. He said my relay does not have a sticker. My relay has the wires on the bottom and page 11 shows a relay with wires on the top. Different relay, different year, no sticker. Is David wrong?
3: yes, wire harness label is there.
4: I wondered about that short hose. I'll paint it, thanks.
5: I am missing the decal on the top of the voltage regulator. The Nocks don't supply them. Know where I can get one?

John. I removed the carbs and used a wire cleaning wheel via my hand drill. Then a polishing wheel and two different polishes. Still see some of the pit marks that the aluminum has. I didn't want a complete smooth chrome finish. Now when I clean, or polish them, they don't look like that grey/aluminum dull finish I used to get. Sort of a dull shine. Does that make any sense at all, duh.

Keoke: Not sure what your asking. I take an another photo, attached here, of that area for you. The heat shield is painted green. Next post will show a photo of my horns. I think the PO replaced with Moss. They work, sound good, fresh paint, I can live with them even though they are not orginal. But please do explain how my wires should be run.

Gonzo: I ordered the drivers side from Brad. Thanks for asking. The drivers side was aftermarket and passenger was original it turns out. That explained the fit issue.

Rob: I love painting. I repainted that bracket black for the paint was old looking. Now I get to repaint it blue to match the car. And I get to paint the screws too. Does anyone here do anything correct the first time, or is it just me. I am getting very good with a spray can.

Nevets: My year does not have the blue/white Girling label. Just the white letters saying: brake, clutch. Mine are located on the very bottom edge of the canister. Respective to the brake and clutch tubes.

Thanks everyone for your input and compliments. We all know how much time is spent on the little stuff. Roger...that.
 
Photo of the horns. Wires running in the right place? Behind the beam in front, through?

L bracket that holds the hood release rod. (look above the horns) Black or body color? I'll bet body, being I repainted the black, black.
 
When I first got my 65 BJ8, I bought most perishable parts (decals, plastic parts, etc.) in multiples of three. I had good practice with an MGA that I owned for 20+ years. Made lots of mistakes and still do! This forum cuts down on the foulup factor. Try SC Parts Group for the decal on the voltage regulator. I have a very old catalog that shows them having the decal. It was probably where I got mine. Their email address is: enquires@scparts.co.uk and their phone number is +44 1293-847-201. Ask for Monte--if they don't have it he can probably track it down.
What year is your BJ8? My relay is wired at the bottom, but I was told (and have seen several 65s with the decal on top)
that the decal was on the top of the relay when it left the factory. If anyone knows differently and is certain otherwise, please chime in.
 
Roger,

For another source for the relay decal try suzie.singleton@virgin.net Suzie has an eBay store on eBay.co.uk. If you go to eBay.co.uk, find a store called ThistleSoup. She has about 12 pages of British car decals, and if she doesn't have it, I bet that she can find it. i'd try SC Parts first, then Suzie. That decal is out there somewhere.

Rob
 
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