Bumblebee Plug Wires

[nathandarby67]

I am thinking of getting some of the bumblebee plug wires for my 73 midget, and have a few questions. Where is a good source for the plug boots and the metal clamps inside the rubber boots that attach to the plug ends? What about connectors to the coil? I have never used raw ignition wire to make up a set before, do you just strip back some of the insulation and push on the plug boots? With my old set, if you pull off the rubber boot there is a metal clip clamped onto the end of the wire. Where does one get these for the bumblebee wire?

 

[aeronca65t]

I built mine (for my racer) from stuff bought at Aircraft Spruce ( https://www.aircraftspruce.com/ ) but I found out later that my local Harley-type biker shop had all this stuff too.
Maybe local speed shop also.
Not sure about the actual "bumble-bee" wire....I just used solid-core, copper plug wire.

 

[Scott_Hower]

Any speedshop should have the clips/caps/boots. There are two types of clips, the clamp style (for copper core) and the pin style for silicone core.

Solid core wires may not play nicely with your radio, not sure if you care tho.

The major suspects should stock the bumblebee wire, including British Wiring. If you cant find it here, https://www.holden.co.uk has about half a dozen colors and styles of authentic period ignition wire and caps. They even stock the Champion bowtie plug ends, which I have never seen anywhere else.

 

[nathandarby67]

Thanks for the tip on the Holden site. Some NEAT stuff they have there! I love those Champion bowtie caps, and the red Champion caps as well. Browsing their site brought up another question though: Do I need suppressed or non-suppressed plug caps? Does this have to do with the what kind of ignition system you have or is it suppressed for radio purposes?

I am going for a sort of "vintage-modified" theme for my engine compartment, so I am not worried about being factory-correct so much as period-correct (or at least close to it, no neon lights or day-glo green plug wires here!). I just bought one of the gold Lucas sports coils, got one of the ribbed polished alloy valve covers, am trying to find the right vintage-look aftermarket air filters, probably going with a Monza exhaust or similar, etc.

 

[DrEntropy]

Suppression is for RF spike cutting, radio noise..

and I agree about Holden. Could spend a fortune with those guys. If you need switches, get 'em from Holden, not Tiawan. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[Deleted member 3577]

Non-suppressed wires interfere w/ most of the inductive timing light pickups....

Not really a problem.
Just thought you should be aware.
Might save ya some head scratching later.

 

[nathandarby67]

Hmmm. I am a bit confused here. I get that suppressed systems interfere with radio, timing lights, etc. I see on Holden where I can buy suppressed or non-suppressed plug caps. What about the plug wires themselves? Do those also come in suppressed and non-suppressed? Or is it just the solid core wires that are by nature non-suppressed?

And if one does have a non-suppressed system, how the heck DO you set the timing if you can't use an inductive timing light?

 

[Deleted member 3577]

Plug caps don't matter at all so far as I know.
Snake oil?

I run copper (non-suppressed) and switch caps/wires if I have to time it.
(really easy on an MGA engine)

It would really be a hoot if the interference from my car would cause other cars to sputter. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devilgrin.gif

BTW....I like Magnacore https://64.233.161.104/search?q=cache:38y...t=clnk&cd=1

They have 7mm black.....Look like OEM MGA wires.
I just get a length & cut as needed.
Then I screw on OE looking ends from Moss.

 

[nathandarby67]

I already have a stash of bumblebee wire, I just have to find where I put it. I believe it is solid core. Is all solid core wire non-suppressed by design, or does the suppression (or lack of) come from the insulation design?

If you look on the Holden site, they list some plug boots as suppressed, some as non-suppressed. I guess I will just pick the ones that look best to me, regardless of suppression.

So assuming my new wires/boots will be non-suppressed, how should I go about timing with my inductive light? Do you just have to try to keep the light lead away from other plug wires besides the one it is clamped to?

LOVE the Elva, by the way! Those have always been one of my favorite designs ever since I saw one at a show about 15 years ago.

 

[jlaird]

Solid wire is non suspressed, gives radios, yours and others fits. hehe.

 

[Deleted member 3577]

[ QUOTE ]
So assuming my new wires/boots will be non-suppressed, how should I go about timing with my inductive light? Do you just have to try to keep the light lead away from other plug wires besides the one it is clamped to?


LOVE the Elva, by the way! Those have always been one of my favorite designs ever since I saw one at a show about 15 years ago.

[/ QUOTE ]
I'd try it w/ the non-suppressed wires you have...
Won't hurt anything.
(at least, I don't think it will hurt a Pertronics)
If your light doesn't work, you may have to use a suppressed #1 spark plug wire, at least temporarily.

Thanks for the Elva compliment.....
You may think differently about it after riding in one.
I suspect that its seat belt was actually a built in kidney belt. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[nathandarby67]

Update

Found the bumblebee wire I had stashed away today. It is NOT solid core. It has a braided copper wire center, with two separate layers of rubber insulation. Looks to be about 6 or 7mm in thickness all together. For this type of wire should I use the crimp-on plug connectors or the screw-in type? Or will either work?

Also, since it is braided core, does that mean it is suppressed wire? Or is there some other design feature of wire that suppresses the RFI?

 

[Bugeye58]

Re: Update

Nathan, plug wires referred to as "solid core" actually use stranded copper wire. This is opposed to the current fiber core wires. It isn't suppression wire.
Either style of terminal will work, but personally I favor the screw in type.
Jeff

 

[Deleted member 3577]

Re: Update

Suppressed wire *usually* has a spiral wound outer wire.

 

[nathandarby67]

Re: Update

Ahhh....thanks for the info guys. I think I got it now. Forgive my ignorance on this topic, but ignition wire is just not something I have ever looked at in detail before. I usually just bought whatever the catalog referenced as the correct part and slapped them on the car! Always good to be learning new stuff, though!

I'll try to post up a pic after I get everything installed. Would have had it done today but I can't find my feeler gauge to set the point gap. I'll run out and get a new one tomorrow and try to get everything buttoned up.

 

[startech47]

Re: Update

Is the bumble bee wire braided or twisted stranded wire?

 

[nathandarby67]

Re: Update

Actually it is twisted. I had a brain-**** and typed braided in the above post. I was trying to convey that it was made up of multiple small strands and not one "solid" wire. Sorry for the confusion!

 

[DrEntropy]

Re: Update

In a pinch you can use a matchbook cover (or an oil filter box bit) as a gap setting tool for the points, Nate.

...just thought I'd toss that out there. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[JeffS]

Re: Update

For those who care, I just recently did a dyno test with my B and a set of Bosch stranded core supression wires versus the Accel "super stock" suppression wires. The Bosch wires upped my hp by 7 simply by reducing the resistance or increasing the voltage to the plug. I'd guess the bumblebee wire would do the same thing. Personally, I prefer the Bosch wires because they come with all the parts and are half assembled so you can fit them perfectly. Part number 09985 for those interested. I normally have a couple sets on hand, but don't push them. They really DO add power! I didn't believe it until I saw the dyno results!

Yes, you need a spare supression core wire handy to set the ignition timing!
Jeff

 

[Deleted member 3577]

Re: Update

[ QUOTE ]
The Bosch wires upped my hp by 7 simply by reducing the resistance or increasing the voltage to the plug. They really DO add power! I didn't believe it until I saw the dyno results!


[/ QUOTE ]
Not sure what to say here except.....
Those other wires must have been pretty bad. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif