POR-15 alternative

[rooster]

Hi,

I did a search on this but nothing came up...

Is there a alternative product (i.e. cheaper) to POR-15 for coating inside the wheel wells and underside of the chassis?

I'm sure POR 15 is good stuff but it's expensive.

Cheers

 

[tdskip]

You could try Rust Bullet, KBS or Zero-Rust. Rust Bullet and KBS are closer in approach to POR15 than Zero-Rust.

 

[71MKIV]

I've used this stuff, about 35 bucks a quart.

https://www.magnetpaints.com/underbody.asp

It doesn't like to sit in the can however. It will only last a couple of months before the whole thing is solid. You might be able to extend that somewhat if you refridgerate it, or use one of those oxygen displacing sprays.

But it covers nicely, and flows out smooth. Haven't had it long enough to be able to tell you how it lasts.

 

[dklawson]

POR also has a short shelf life (even shorter once it's opened). I only buy it in the small 1/2 Pint cans so I don't throw away too much. In the case of POR, it's not oxygen that's the problem, it's moisture/humidity. I went so far as to try "filling" the can with Argon from my welder before fitting the lid. I don't think it did a bit of good though.

I have some acquaintances who have used Rust Bullet. They were generally pleased with the results.

 

[JodyFKerr]

when working with the smaller cans there's a trick to help keep the POR-15 lasting longer (as well as keeping the lid from sealing to the tin). lay a sandwich bag between the can and tin before closing the can.

Jody

 

[Gliderman8]

My trick for extending the life of an opened POR-15 can is to put some glass marbles into the can before I seal it back up.
The marbles raise the level in the can so there is less air space.

 

[Adrio]

I use the inert gas from my MIG welder to displace the air in paint cans before I close them up again. The gas is heavier then air and has no oxygen so the paint should not skin over.

 

[dklawson]

The welding gas didn't do much for my POR-15. However, I do use the plastic bag between the lid and can... not so much for a better seal... but so I can get the lid back off again! The marbles are a really good idea. I'll try that with the next can I open.

 

[apbos]

Plastic wrap on the lid. Remove the required amount with a syringe, never return unused product to the can. Put the can in the freezer! Will last at least 6 months. Have not had to have it last any longer.

Paul

 

[newmexTR3]

I've yet to use POR-15, but I love Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator.

I bought a quart over 6 months ago and have used it regularly w/o bothering to seal it up extra carefully. It hasn't showed any signs of drying up so far. Great stuff.

-Gavin

 

[DNK]

I always thought a Por-15 for a British car is kind of redundant!

 

[JodyFKerr]

I always thought a Por-15 for a British car is kind of redundant!

redundant, no
oxymoron, yes

painting POR-15 on swiss cheese makes for nicely maintained swiss cheese.

 

[conan69]

Don't open the can. Shake the life out of it and put two holes 180 apart in the lid. 1/4 OR 5/16 Thread bolts in the lid and the POR will seal it up for you. Unscrew the bolt pour out what you need put the bolt back in. This has worked great for me in SUNNY Fresno.

 

[SpannerMan]

I've yet to use POR-15, but I love Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator.

I bought a quart over 6 months ago and have used it regularly w/o bothering to seal it up extra carefully. It hasn't showed any signs of drying up so far. Great stuff.

-Gavin

Yes, I've found this to be a good product also. Easy to use and by no means cheap but reasonable. I haven't opened the can back up but it still seemed to be liquid last time I shook it. It worked well for sealing the rust on my 90 Ford. It used to go by another name, which escapes me now. There are some online comparisons vs. POR 15.
Pete

 

[Tinster]

I've yet to use POR-15, but I love Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator.

I bought a quart over 6 months ago and have used it regularly w/o bothering to seal it up extra carefully. It hasn't showed any signs of drying up so far. Great stuff.

-Gavin

I did not have much luck with the life span.
I had to replace the entire trailer suspension
after a little over 1 year. Urethane top coat.
Yes, I know it is not a Triumph suspension.

 

[TR4nut]

Dale-

That's a pretty impressive demonstration (unfortunately for you!) - have you found anything else that works better in harsh marine conditions?

Randy

 

[Tinster]

Hi Randy !!

Yes, I was really surprised at how deep the rust had gone
considering how meticulous I am about cleaning the boat and
trailer with fresh water and boat soap after each time
I use it. Banjo Ben can personally attest to this fact.
The suspension had 25 to 30 uses before I took the photo
and replaced everything.

I am testing two products onto my new suspension parts:
I am Galvacon coating the parts individually before the
install and then lithium grease over everything..

1. Galvacon- this is liquid zinc 97% with some carrier.
$30 a quart here in PR. It weighs a ton. It dries
to touch in about ten minutes and hardens in 24 hours.
If used over rust, a converter must first be applied.
I installed the Galvacon with new SS bolts and nuts.
It can used as a primer or finish coat.

Once installed, I covered everything with a thick coating
of lithium grease. Now I will monitor it.

best regards,

Dale (tinster)

 

[newmexTR3]

I wonder if rattle can vs. brush on makes any difference (as well as silver vs black). So far mine (black) has held up okay, but I'll have to keep an eye it!

 

[Gliderman8]

I am testing two products onto my new suspension parts:

It's possible that the constant flexing of the suspension leaf springs will put hairline cracks in just about any coating allowing the rust process to begin its nasty process.
Hope you find something that will work!

 

[Tinster]

I am testing two products onto my new suspension parts:

It's possible that the constant flexing of the suspension leaf springs will put hairline cracks in just about any coating allowing the rust process to begin its nasty process.
Hope you find something that will work!

Rooster: 1st of all, I did not mean to steal your thread. Rust
is a problem for all types of suspensions. If something works for me
and my TR6 or my boat- it should work for any Triumph, anywhere in the
world. I live in a salty environment.

Gliderman8- On the leaf springs I am positive that is exactly
what happened. I even asked myself that question as I was coating
them. BUT there is no flex on the flat pieces and they were even
deeper rusted. I am hoping the heavy coating of lithium grease will
withstand the flex.

When I replaced my TR6 suspension I powder coated all the components
and used new grade 5 and grade 8 fasteners. The fasteners began to rust
in less than a month. I wire wheel cleaned them and covered them with
red wheel bearing grease (it was handy)

I took my TR6 frame down to white metal before the Rust Encapsulator
and two part urethane top coat. I better check it out.

Edit: Also I better remove myself from Rooster's thread.
There are plenty of more experienced folks here to help.

dale (Tinster)