T-Series Need help to free up rear brakes on TD

[Coastalman]

The rear brakes are not letting the wheels turn. The '51 MGTD has been stored for over 30 years and I think the hand brake was set when it was parked. Now the car cannot be pulled forward with any movement of the rear wheels. Pulling it backwards the right rear wheel will rotate slowly and the left rear will move only occasionly. I have soaked everything I can get to behind the drum with PB Blaster and have tried heating the drum to see if it might expand and come off.
What steps should I take to get the drum off and replace the adjuster/wheel cylinder? I am sure someone has had this problem and knows a fix. I sure hope so!
I do believe the transmission is in neutral.
Thanks,
Charlie

 

[Deleted member 8987]

If the wheels turn at all, the shoes are not rusted/frozen to the drums, so stop with the penetrants that will destroy the linings!

If parked with e-brake on, you've gotta get the cables/linkages loose.

Unbolt all the external cabling brackets to get movement.
Soak the cables down, and any pivots.
WORK the cable housings, bending (not sharp) and twisting to free up any sticking and apply more penetrant at the end of the cable, letting it run down the cable.

I've done a whole lot of this on various vehicles over the decades.

 

[David_DuBois]

After 30 years, it is doubtful that the linings are worth saving, but TOC is correct about unbolting all the cables at both ends. The cables are attached to the e-brake levers at the rear wheels with clevis pins. Remove the cotter pin and pull the clevis pins out of the levers/cable end. You may need a big pair of side cutters to get the clevis pins moving, but once they are out, you will no longer have anything holding the brake shoes hard against the drums (although the outer piston in the brake cylinders may be sticking in the out position). Try loosening them up by rolling the car back and forth. After that, jack the rear end up and remove the rear drums. This may take some effort to get the drums off the shoes, especially if there is a ridge on the inside edge of the drums. Once the drums are off, you can start in getting the cylinders cleaned up and everything working as it should.
Cheers,

 

[Coastalman]

Thanks to Dave and TOC, I have some progress on the rear brakes. One drum is off and the other should be tomorrow. I need a young man who can hammer on the back of the drum to work it off the axle. Lacking that, I just flail away at it until I get tired and then come back to it later.
Everything looks good on the hub area so with new wheel cylinders, a big clean up on the drum and lubing everything else that moves, it should be fine.
Charlie

 

[Guest]

We use to run into this all the time on various vehicles. Hitting on the backing plate will usually free it up enough to spin, sometimes enought to be able to remove it.

I'm with David, 30 years is a LONG time for shoes, especially if they are glued. I've pulled several down that old only to find the lining fall out. And that's w/o using any penetrator oil.

Young man?????? You aint ever too old to beat on stuff !!! Stuck is stuck and young folks get tired too !!!!

 

[Deleted member 8987]

If it was stored indoors, and just the e-brake cable is stuck, shoes should be fine.
It's sitting outside, where the shoes rust and peel the bonded linings off that you have failure.
If they ar eold rivetted linings, and stored indoors, shoes are probably just fine.

Done both kinds.

The fact that the drums turned at all is a good indication the mechanics and linings are good.

Cylinders are toast.

 

[Sebring222]

Charlie-
When you're putting the system back together with all new or rebuilt components give some serious thought to using silicone brake fluid. I've been using in T series MG's for more than 30 years with consistently good results. But only use it if you have a completely new or rebuilt system.
Best wishes for a great holiday season.

Jim D

 

[Coastalman]

Jim,
I have been using Castrol GT LMA Synthetic fluid for my two Healeys for quite awhile. I am a believer in LMA fluid. That was all I would use back in the 70s for my MGAs. Now the synthetic is even better.
Today I finished the rear brakes. The drums turn easily. Glad to have that done. Tomorrow I start on the fuel system. I am going to put a picture of the existing fuel pump on the forum soon. I would like to know what it is supposed to be on. I will move to a Facet pump. I use them on the Healeys and they are great.
Have a very good holiday season to all,
Charlie

 

[Steve_S]

Brake fluid is all synthetic. They only recently started putting the word "synthetic" on the bottle as a marketing trick. It's the same old fluid in the bottle.