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Geo Hahn
Yoda
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Because the fuses are so prominently displayed in a TR3 (on the firewall, no fuse box cover) it is nice to put vintage Lucas fuses in there, but such fuses are scarce and perishable. An alternative is to make your own.
To do this I open an existing glass fuse, insert a Lucas paper label, and button it back up.
Most fuses can be opened by simply heating one end with a large soldering iron... the fuse 'wire' is held to the metal tips with a dab of solder and the tips are usually held to the glass with some glue that yields to heat. A few wooden spring-type clothespins are useful for holding and pulling apart the hot pieces.
Once it is open you can insert the paper label and then as they say: "assembly is the reverse of the above". Everything needs to be hot again for it to go together so just start the tip over the glass tube, then heat and press it all the way on with the iron. Do a continuity check after it is together, though I have never had one fail to reconnect.
To get the labels here are links to printable images:
https://www.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/fuse%20label%2035.JPG
https://www.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/fuse%20label%2050.JPG
They look big but should print up about 1/2" long. After printing I soak the labels in some coffee to get that vintage look. BTW, I think the 30 amp were on white paper and the 50 on yellow paper.
US 20 amp fuses work as a substitute for the British 35 amp but they are a bit longer than the real Lucas fuses. A correct length & look can be obtain by using actual Lucas fuses as supplied by Moss, TRF, et al. The process is similar except the fuse wire really is a wire not a blade and penetrates a small hole in each tip.
Another way to get the correct shorter length is to use 14 amp fuses. These are the correct length and on my stock TR3A do not blow in normal use (YMMV).
Some craftiness and creativity may be needed to make this work -- but a nice winter project you can do in the warm house instead of the garage.
To do this I open an existing glass fuse, insert a Lucas paper label, and button it back up.
Most fuses can be opened by simply heating one end with a large soldering iron... the fuse 'wire' is held to the metal tips with a dab of solder and the tips are usually held to the glass with some glue that yields to heat. A few wooden spring-type clothespins are useful for holding and pulling apart the hot pieces.
Once it is open you can insert the paper label and then as they say: "assembly is the reverse of the above". Everything needs to be hot again for it to go together so just start the tip over the glass tube, then heat and press it all the way on with the iron. Do a continuity check after it is together, though I have never had one fail to reconnect.
To get the labels here are links to printable images:
https://www.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/fuse%20label%2035.JPG
https://www.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/fuse%20label%2050.JPG
They look big but should print up about 1/2" long. After printing I soak the labels in some coffee to get that vintage look. BTW, I think the 30 amp were on white paper and the 50 on yellow paper.
US 20 amp fuses work as a substitute for the British 35 amp but they are a bit longer than the real Lucas fuses. A correct length & look can be obtain by using actual Lucas fuses as supplied by Moss, TRF, et al. The process is similar except the fuse wire really is a wire not a blade and penetrates a small hole in each tip.
Another way to get the correct shorter length is to use 14 amp fuses. These are the correct length and on my stock TR3A do not blow in normal use (YMMV).
Some craftiness and creativity may be needed to make this work -- but a nice winter project you can do in the warm house instead of the garage.
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