Trailers for Hauling a Healey info wanted

[Michael Oritt]

Laws governing trailers and flat-towing vary from state to state and you can find a summary of them at: https://www.brakebuddy.com/towing-laws

Most states fix the lower limit above which trailer brakes are needed at 3000# which would not be the case for a towed Healey though a few states are at 1500#.

For the few states requiring a breakaway system an interesting solution can be found at: https://www.readybrake.com/

 

[Brinkerhoff]

Michael, good. Yes , I meant of course that if you were in a state that you were over the limit of weight that is. Michigan was at 2,500 lb. for a long time .

 

[judow]

I'm not sure if this would be helpful as I can't speak the technical language. We have a Haulmark motorcycle trailer that we tow with a GMC Envoy. Doug moved the stansions slightly so that I simply at his direction drive in and the wheels are held in place by the stansions. He then uses bungee cords to secure Agatha using the tie downs that were already in place. While I can't give a detailed explanation, what I do know is that we traveled from New Mexico to San Diego with some hard driving and Agatha never moved. The only negative is that we do have to add tracks (not the right term) so that I don't bottom out. Need to mention we're talking a 100M and the ground clearance is not good. Also I could never just drive in by myself as there is very little vision. I can't see anything until I'm at least 1/2 way into the trailer. It's turned out to be a real plus. I am also able to walk around Agatha and get in and out without much difficulty.

 

[Patrick67BJ8]

I'm not sure if this would be helpful as I can't speak the technical language. We have a Haulmark motorcycle trailer that we tow with a GMC Envoy. Doug moved the stansions slightly so that I simply at his direction drive in and the wheels are held in place by the stansions. He then uses bungee cords to secure Agatha using the tie downs that were already in place. While I can't give a detailed explanation, what I do know is that we traveled from New Mexico to San Diego with some hard driving and Agatha never moved. The only negative is that we do have to add tracks (not the right term) so that I don't bottom out. Need to mention we're talking a 100M and the ground clearance is not good. Also I could never just drive in by myself as there is very little vision. I can't see anything until I'm at least 1/2 way into the trailer. It's turned out to be a real plus. I am also able to walk around Agatha and get in and out without much difficulty.

You must have a trailer at least 14ft in length and maybe 8'6" wide(to be able to walk around with the healey in it?).

 

[Michael Oritt]

Judow--

I hope you are using something to securely tie the car down in addition to bungee cords. There should be proper floor strong points through-bolted and backed up and you should be using ratcheting nylon straps at least 2" wide made for tying cars down. The thought of your car bouncing around in a trailer at the end of bungees is frightening.

 

[judow]

I said bungee cords. Sorry husband say NO. He uses nylon ratchet cords. And these go thru the frame and into the thingies that are a part of the trailer. I think those are called 'proper floor strong points through-bolted..." The thingies are hooks that are built into the trailer to hold the bikes down. It is meant for two motorcycles. I knew I shouldn't have said anything as "I don't know the technical language." That's what happens when you don't get to become part of the guy group until late in life, very late in life. I think the point I was trying to make is that a 'motorcycle' trailer can work very well. The trailer has a V-nose front and this is a great storage area for incidentals. So far we have had no problems and considering cost was fair. I do know the trailer is fitted with 4 wheel electric breaks, D-rings in the floor, dome lites, 15" tires-, a nice side door, air vents, 5 1/2 feet high and it is 7X14. It weighs approximately 2400#. Aha I bet you thought I got smart and you would be right. I went to the file cabinet and pulled out the docs on the trailer. Thingies can now be referred to as D-rings. Some of the accessories we keep with us are extra tires, a generator, an extinguisher meant for the garage and various and sundry other things. Can't remember everything but as you can guess I have nothing to do with it except to drive Agatha in and out. AND that's the way it should be. Hate to admit it but my trailer expertise is sorely lacking.

Any way the whole point of my post was to say that perhaps consideration should be given to a motorcycle enclosed trailer. Geez not only do I talk a lot, it appears that I do the same when writing. I type way too fast.

I'm leaving now....

 

[Michael Oritt]

I'm glad to learn the car was properly tied down. Thingies can be very tricky!

The trailering I do is connected to my racing and it is important to have lots of room for tools, spares, etc. etc. My 20' trailer accommodates nicely my race cars which are a bit smaller than a Healey and also gives room for me to relax, change cloths, hang out in the rain, etc. etc. However I agree an MC trailer would work, esp. since he is apparently only going to be taking the car to shows, etc.

 

[judow]

Got to give a hi-five to those thingies. Thanks for not making me too fee too stupid Michael. While I understand and probably could do what Doug does for Agatha, it's quite another thing to explain it.

 

[Patrick67BJ8]

I'm glad to learn the car was properly tied down. Thingies can be very tricky!

The trailering I do is connected to my racing and it is important to have lots of room for tools, spares, etc. etc. My 20' trailer accommodates nicely my race cars which are a bit smaller than a Healey and also gives room for me to relax, change cloths, hang out in the rain, etc. etc. However I agree an MC trailer would work, esp. since he is apparently only going to be taking the car to shows, etc.

What's your "tow vehicle" Michael? I'm getting "sure your Tahoe can pull a 20' trailer with the HD Trailer pkg" that's installed from folks who want to see me a Trailer. A used 16' Trailer is very hard to find and one with proper platform height is not making it any easier. And, if it's 8'6" in width I believe the outside mirrors must be the extendable kind too(which I don't have). I found a 20'x8.5 used trailer that's a little well used interior wise for $3400 but I'd have to get it weighed to verify trailer plus Healey weight to know if it would be a good "fit'. I may post pics later today of it. It has aluminum wheels and used to be used to transport a "stock car".

 

[ghosteh]

Here's my tow combo. As you can see, we don't get out much, and it's been a long winter.

 

[Patrick67BJ8]

Here's my tow combo. As you can see, we don't get out much, and it's been a long winter.

We occasional have snow in North Texas, but not like you have.

 

[Michael Oritt]

What's your "tow vehicle" Michael?

Patrick--

I tow a 20' Carmate trailer with a 2007 Toyota Tundra V8. The truck is equipped with a weight distribution/stabilizer bar system and of course electric brakes. My race cars fall in the 1000-1500 lb. range. The Toyota is well up to the task and I can pull all day long at 75 mph and up hills with ease but gas mileage sucks--10 mpg is about it.

 

[aeronca65t]

I've been using an open trailer for my racer for nearly 20 years. And I have to admit, I love the simplicity of it.

Also, you get a lot more "horn honking" while towing than an anonymous enclosed trailer. :friendly_wink:

But I have been looking at ~THESE Enclosed Trailers~.

A friend of mine has a very similar unit and likes it very much.

At $3600, they are reasonable.

The 16' X 7" dimension is plenty for my Spridget (and even a big Healey is only 13' X 5'). I agree that the bigger trailers have some nice storage room, but towing, maneuvering (and especially backing-up) a shorter trailer is way easier. I tow with a 2009 two-seat Chevy Express Cargo Van so I already have a decent amount of protected storage area. Also, my van is a 4.3 V6 (which I wanted) so the 16' trailer is a bit easier to pull.
In the next year or so, I will probably ditch the open trailer and move to one of these.

 

[Michael Oritt]

Nial--

For only $100.00 more you can buy a 20' basic car trailer. I don't know whether the 16' trailer has a beavertail and/or whether that is an issue for you but with only 7' width overall it would be nigh impossible to get around the car when it is tied down.

 

[dougie]

I love using an enclosed trailer for long hauls. When heading south to Cali or east to Road America the enclosed trailer is the only way to go. I have an open trailer as well, I use to go to the dyno or the local track, PDX. An enclosed trailer offers not only a safe car hauler, by a safe place to store tools, spares, and cold beer on a three day race weekend......

 

[aeronca65t]

An enclosed trailer offers........a safe place to store.............cold beer on a three day race weekend......

Good we've got the important points covered! :friendly_wink:

Michael: I looked at some of the 7' trailers. For a Spridget (or A35) I can maneuver inside OK.....not great, but OK.
Trying to avoid dealing with a too-long trailer since I failed backing up-up class. :friendly_wink:

 

[Michael Oritt]

Nial--

Though I can see where your priorities lie I'll point out that you can get a 16' trailer in 92"-96" width.

 

[aeronca65t]

OK, Mike...I admit it: I'm not getting any skinnier! :glee:

I'll take a look at the wider units (but I'll try to hold to the shorter length.......backing a trailer in at Shenley is more terrifying to me than those stone walls at speed).

I built my first race-car trailer in 1969 with my Dad's "buzz-box" arc welder. It was an open trailer with old Rambler axles. I used it to tow my first Sprite out to Bridgehampton.
I was terrible at backing it up back then and over all these years, I've hardly gotten any better. :friendly_wink:

 

[Patrick67BJ8]

OK, Mike...I admit it: I'm not getting any skinnier! :glee:

I'll take a look at the wider units (but I'll try to hold to the shorter length.......backing a trailer in at Shenley is more terrifying to me than those stone walls at speed).

I built my first race-car trailer in 1969 with my Dad's "buzz-box" arc welder. It was an open trailer with old Rambler axles. I used it to tow my first Sprite out to Bridgehampton.
I was terrible at backing it up back then and over all these years, I've hardly gotten any better. :friendly_wink:

If the trailer was twice as long it would be easier to backup(just ask any 18 wheeler)LOL.
I appreciate all the comments posted and I have been doing more investigating myself and some of the things I found that are important to me are:

Enclosed trailer, 16/17 x 8.5. I don't need a fancy race car trailer with cabinets, etc.
The 8.5 trailers seem to be as low to the ground as the race car trailers.
Beavertail with extended flap is on the list.
Vents in the sides as well as roof vent.
Radial or biasply tires...not sure which is better but radials are about $20 more per tire.
Spare tire/wheel.
Jack that fits the trailer...duh
Floor covering...keep the trailer looking good.
LED light package. One trailer company offers the tail lights low and high. Always best to be seen up close and distance.
Brakes...best to have brakes on both axles. (I have seen a trailer advertised with one axle brakes).
Interior light(s).
Exterior lights located at the top of the trailer rear...maybe spec out wiring them for backup lighting too.
"V" shaped trailer front.

Anything else?

 

[John Kuzman]

Winch with remote control.