Hi Greg,
Most parts of the TR6 suspension could be used. I'd think twice, though, about welding the adjustable lower/inner mounting brackets onto the frame. The TR3/4 setup is stronger, with the heavy horizontal shaft. The inner/lower bushings from TR3/4 can simply be used in the TR6 lower a-arms and mounted in the same way as the original TR3/4 a-arms.
The problem with doing what I suggest is that's it's no longer adjustable with shims, as on the TR6. A solution is an camber-adjustable upper fulcrum for TR2/3/4, such as is sold by Revington TR. Through the use of shims at the ball joint, caster can also be adjusted with this fulcrum. (Photos of it installed on my TR4 at the link below, by my signature.)
So why bother changing to the later suspension, if not for it's adjustability? Well, the outer/lower a-arm joint on TR4A-TR6 is easier to work with, thanks to the bolt rather than pin in the trunnion. Also, you'll convert from O degrees of caster found on TR2/3 and very early TR4, to 3 degrees caster used on all the later cars. That should improve handling with modern tires. 3 degrees of caster would particularly be desirable if you are considering converting to a rack & pinion steering.
My main concern with installing the later suspension on TR2/3 would be the steering arms at the axles, particularly if the original steering setup is used. I suspect everything will fit and work fine, but just would want to check it carefully.
I thought the Toyota 4-pot calipers would bolt directly onto TR3, too?
Keep us posted about the project!