TR2/3/3A TR3 Wheel Studs, Couple of Hinges Needed.

[oxendine]

This topic has most likely been beaten to depth but I still have to ask. What are the correct lengths of the wheel studs for wires and steel wheels. I just bought a 1961 TR3 with steels but it came with a pair of wires and hubs to use if desired. I am also needing the bonnet and left side boot hinges if anyone has a used set they would sell. The car isn't too pretty but is rust free and needs a little spiffing up. Used stuff would work fine for now.

Thanks, Donnie

 

[TR3driver]

I don't have the measurements handy, but the stud should fill the nut without protruding by more than 1/8" or so. So for wires, install the splined adapter and the special short nuts (which are beveled on both sides) and check how far the stud sticks out. If you have steel wheel studs, they will stick out of the nut by more than 1/8".

For steel wheels, install the wheel and larger steel wheel nuts (which are flat on top). If the stud doesn't come at least flush with the top of the nut, you've got wire wheel studs.

If you do go for the wires, check the splines very carefully for wear, using a magnifying lens if necessary. The sides of the splines should be a straight line. If you can see a step partway along the side, then the spline is worn and may be dangerous. Remember, those splines are the only things that connect the brakes to the wheels!

Scroll to the bottom at https://mgaguru.com/mgtech/wheels/wl104.htm for some photos. The lower photo shows dangerously worn splines.

 

[TR4nut]

Personally, I would not cut the studs if they are too long for wires - there are good spacers out there that you can use instead. Changing those rear studs out is a major pain.