TR2/3/3A Tr3 removing front wings

[Bill_Bryant]

So it appears that one must remove the door before being able to remove the front wing... right?

So, any tips on how to get the door hinge screws loose?

 

[TFB]

Biill,yes Iam going through that now,fitting body panels.Front fenders have seeem to go on before doors.No secrets to offer just the ususall loosener fluids and maybe some heat.Dont force them or you can damage nut cages.You have to pull door panels to lube the doors,jam side hinge nuts cant be reached without pulling fender off or loosening botton bolts aand possibly shootong some up to the nuts,
have fun
Tom

 

[sp53]

Bill on the passenger side if the car is about 58 and under, the kick panel has about 6 inch hole in, spray some stuff in there from the back on the screws. You might even want to take a hole saw and drill a hole in the driver side panel for access, but see how that works on the passenger side. I struggle with this, but I cut a hole in the back tub with a hole saw for access on those lower bolts also. Sometimes the best tool is oil and often the best tool for those hinges is an old school hand held impact driver.
steve

 

[Banjo]

I second the Impact driver. invaluable tool for stuck screws, and fairly inexpensive. Sears should carry them.
My personal "weasle pee" of choice is PB Blaster. Good stuff!

 

[TR3driver]

I will 3rd the hand impact driver, although ISTR TR3 doors were the reason I made an extended tip for mine (about 3" of 5/16" allen wrench, ground to a screwdriver point on one end). The hand impact tool works especially well for cases like this, where the impact goes lengthwise into the bolt, as well as turning it at the same time. They do take a bit of getting used to, though, so if you've never used one before, it might be best to practice on the bench a few times first.

https://www.google.com/products/catalog?h...ved=0CGIQ8wIwAw

I also like PB Blaster, in my opinion it works significantly better than "weasel pee" (a home mixture of ATF & acetone), plus of course the aerosol can is quite handy. Spray it on and let it soak for awhile; at least 15 minutes or overnight is even better. With the reach of the aerosol, you can get access to spray it on the door (and fender) bolts by removing the seal plate inside the fender.

 

[Bill_Bryant]

Whenever I feel the need to bang my head against the garage wall, I come back to these dmn hinge bolts (machine screws) that have driven me to distraction for the last several months...

I have ruined multiple impact driver bits, spun a few in their cages and sheared off the slot on a few more but have only been able to remove about 4 successfully...! I got a snap-on driver bit (so far not ruined) and used my Makita impact gun and still very little success.

And my car has very little rust.

so now I am planning to drill pilot holes and then larger holes to remove the bugle part of the heads of the machine screws just so I can get the doors of to get the fr fenders off. I will then probably have to replace a bunch of the cage-nuts (Macy's)...

I simply cannot believe how impossible these fasteners are to remove.

just venting...

 

[GilsTR]

Bill...I had a real difficult time with the screws on the door hinges also. Finally had to drill a couple of them out. I found a spray that "freezes" the bolt / nut that helped some of the time.
We are just North of you...up here in Ukiah. We have restored 4 of the side screens...and have 5 cars in our group. TR2 - TR3 - TR3A & TR3B. Like to connect sometime. Gil NoCal

 

[TR3driver]

You should give the hand impact driver a try, it really does work better (for cases like this) than the powered type (which don't hammer towards the fastener at the same time).

If the nuts spin in their cages, you can remove the seal plate and get in there to clamp vice-grips over the cage.

 

[Marvin Gruber]

Hand impact usually works for me. Vise grips of the cage as well.

Marv