That was fun!

[Baz]

Now I have a partially empty engine bay. Dismantling things was a lot of fun, nothing got broken, everything is in order and ready for the hoist tomorrow.
I did cheat and take the head off, just to see what evil, digusting and unmentionable was living in the combustion chambers....I wasn't disappointed. The rocker assembly was in great condition, happy with that.

Heater box - gone, outta here. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/savewave.gif
Desmogging canister - adios. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/savewave.gif

Too much fun, now I have to figure out what all those extra pieces are when I put it back together. I'll do the tie rods and transmission while the motor is at the machine shop.

Thank you all for talking me into it, I've learnt a great deal in just the 'removal' stage. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
I grabbed it, and growled.

 

[zimmy]

its not too bad a job, but that motor is alot heavier than it looks....try not to bash anything on the way out ; )...zzimmmy

 

[drooartz]

Good work, Barry. You've got a jump on me, for sure. Don't forget, take lots of pictures, so you can remember how it all goes together, and so we can see too!

 

[Baz]

[ QUOTE ]
You've got a jump on me, for sure.

[/ QUOTE ]

It was irresistable, once the fluids were out, curiosty was king. There is a LOT of cleaning to be done. No tray under the battery, oil here there and everywhere, boots are torn and many other previously invisible 'attention needers' found. Nothing serious.
Yeah Zimmy, I rented a 1200 lb hoist for $30 a day, don't mind if it takes me that long.
Pics are taken, will be some obvious differences....

 

[drooartz]

Dismantling is always fun, and goes nice and fast. The danger is that you'll keep going, and will be down to a bare body in no time. Don't forget to stop! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[DrEntropy]

Great, Barry! Sounds as if you're gonna be at it "hammer 'n tongs"!

 

[jlaird]

Miss Agatha wishes you well.

 

[Baz]

Having trouble with the throttle & choke linkages on the carbs. The only way to get at the choke is by removing the dashpots. I'm not familiar enough with SU anatomy to know what will happen, I know there's oil in there!
If I defy Haynes, and remove the intake manifolds from head first, will the heat shield support the weight of the carbs?

 

[jlaird]

There is no oil in the dash pots per say. The oil is in the tube that is assesable from the top and in any case only about a thimble full in each. It will not spill if you keep the dash pot upright.

There are only two screws to remove, but remove the brass or plastic toped piston dampner first. Note that the large part inside that moves up and down with the needle on it has a slot and only installs one way. While you have the dash pot off drain the dampner oil and clean chamber with carb cleaner, don't forget to refill after replaceing on the carb body. The large piston and the dash pot cover are presion parts no wire brushes in side. Tolerances are close.

Enjoy, easy job.

 

[Baz]

Thanks Jack,
I'll be joining you in the carb rebuild club while off. Get them polished and looking like they are some use.

 

[jlaird]

You be very careful now, they are presision insturments. Take lots of pics, and I mean lots. There is also an SU tuneing manual here.

https://www.1978mgmidget.com/manuals_and_booklets.html

And you can download and print.

Enjoy

 

[Baz]

Oh, that is the second most important web-site in history!
You been holding out on that one?
I'll have to download it at work, look like a lot of printer paper is going to be used!

 

[jlaird]

If I gave you all my secrets you would be as smart as me on a good day, LOL. You do know about the web site with all the wireing diagrams?

Now me when Miss Agatha is finished I am going to collect all the manuals etc in the orginial. I had a set at one time and left it all go with my other car like a dummy.

 

[zimmy]

no worrys, pull the dashpots and refill later with auto transmission fluid or 10w30 oil........
careful, as u now know, the more things u remove, the more repairs needed, the more money spent, the longer youll be without a moving car!
also, u can get a lift at harbour freight for $140 total...z

 

[weewillie]

I had a buddy who used to put 3 in 1 oil in the dashpots.

 

[jlaird]

Use crankcase 20-50 oil unless your are raceing or tuneing for speed. Lighter oil faster responce, heaver oil slower responce. I seriously would not recommend any thing but above for a street machine.

 

[Baz]

Carbs are off, and intact, will deal with them later.
One explaination of some symptoms I was having was the header was not 'totally' connected to the exhaust!
The header stud (singular) is rusted good and proper, no PB is getting it (singular) out. Where did the other two go?
No wonder it was sounding like a bear.

Back to carbs: Did you chaps get a standard rebuild kit? Did it work out?

 

[DrEntropy]

Standard kit (can't recall if they call it a "major" one) should be all ya need. Do 'em one at a time so's ya have a "mirror" reference, clean 'em inside and out. If you bench set 'em to the directions it'll light off ~immediately~ next time ya turn the key (barring any *other* problems /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif).

 

[Bugeye58]

Barry, regarding the available kits, the Master Kits from Moss, #375-538, include the jets, throttle shafts, butterflies, needles and seats, and all gaskets.
A "standard" kit may only contain gaskets and a needle and seat.
When I'm doing a complete overhaul, rather than just a "freshen up", I go with the big kit.
Jeff

 

[Baz]

Thanks both, I'm deeper in this than I thought I would be.
Added to the list for Tony.....
I'll be wrestling with that header tomorrow, grrrr.