New Paint Polishing

[Gary Pope]

What is the best product for cutting/polishing new paint? I wanted to get my fresh paint smooth and mirror like but don't want to rub too much paint off.

Thanks

 

[Steve]

How new is it? I would be leery of applying anything of an abrasive nature yet, unless I were really unhappy with the finish. I would suggest leaving it for a few weeks to cure.

 

[aerog]

What kind of paint is it? I'd agree with Steve, unless the paint was "baked" (I've heard opinions both ways on that, whether to leave it for 60+ days or not to worry about it).

Anyway, I've been happy with some of the 3M products out there but I understand the way to a really fine finish is to carefully cut the paint by wet-sanding (to cut any imperfections) then finally machine polish then hand rub the paint to shine.

 

[BEEJAY7]

Gary

I was told by the "time served" sprayer who did my car that I should not attempt to polish it for at least 6 months and then only use "non-silicon" products.
My car does have cellulose paint, as opposed to two pack.

Cheers

 

[Gary Pope]

I just have cheap paint on that I do myself.
I can't get the car professionaly painted until I get two new fenders for the front .. which are big bucks. But I still want the car to look half decent in the mean time. The problem with doing it yourself is .. the insects and dust get into the wet paint and forces me to hurry the job.
The worst problem I have is the orange peel effect. I have tried 1000 & 1500 wet sanding. It looks nice and shiny when the water is on it, but when it dries it is very dull. I can't seam to get a mirror finish. The paint is not clearcoat it is just one stage enamel.

It looks good from about 10 feet away .. but close up is crap. I don't have a power polisher just one of those turtle wax electric polishers that turn very slow. I think I get a better result with elbow grease.

 

[Dave Russell]

Gary,

You are on the right track so far. The next steps would be using a rubbing compound, & then a finer polishing compound. Get compounds which are intended for hand polishing rather than machine polishing. Finish with a swirl remover & a sealer.

In case you don't know, it is best to tape the corners & edges of the panels so that you don't rub through the edges which is very easy to do if you are not careful.
D

 

[aerog]

Ditto what Dave said - you need to start using rubbing/polishing compound.

The "A Car is Reborn" show segement that featured painting showed that process and it was quite dramatic to see.

 

[WLJ]

ditto again start with a rubbing compound then a polishing compound then a scratch and swirl remover then a good sealer or carnuba wax. A good polisher helps alot.I painted my car and did these steps and it is very shiny and smooth.
WLJ 75 MGB

 

[Rick O.]

Gary--I'm in the same boat you're in trying to keep an older respray in presentable condition. What you've done with the wet sanding is perfect. As the others have mentioned however, you need to take it further with a finishing compound. The compound I use with fantastic results is manufactured by 3M and comes in a quart plastic squeeze bottle. You'll get a mirror finish with this stuff. If interested, I'll check for the name of it and get back with you.

 

[Rick O.]

Here's the 3M product I was referring to:

https://www.properautocare.com/3mfiniimacpo.html

Good luck.

 

[Gary Pope]

Thanks Rick .. apreciate it.

 

[PC]

Hi Gary,

This thread’s been dormant a little while so I thought I’d ask. How’s it coming along? Have you tried anything new yet?


PC

 

[tsuba]

I know I'm a little late for this thread, but I couldn't resist when I noticed the question.
A few months ago we tested a polish by Einszett ("Metallic Polish") on a friend's newly painted car with the same goal as yours. The paint job was a few months old (so it had already cured) but hadn't been exposed to the elements much yet. The results were perfect. It smoothed the paint and left a nice mirror. Although it contains some abrasives, we didn't feel that it went too deeply. If you're nervous about how much abrasion there is, the same company has a lesser abrasive polish as well. It's called "Express Polish." Both polishes contain some carnauba so you get a little ~wax bonus~ while you're polishing.

We've since used the Einszett Metallic Polish on 2 new cars (post cure-time), as well as a swirl mark infested dark red car, and have continued to be very impressed.

We carry the Einszett line (literally ever since the aforementioned test!), but it's also available via others. Our website is in my signature and the Einszett website is:
https://www.1z-usa.com (they have a list of all retailers who carry their products). Einszett is out of Germany, but has recently started exporting to the U.S. I'm curious how many non-U.S. forum members know of this brand?

 

[XK4]

I suppose the car is finished by now, but I might add that when your doing the rubbing and polishing try to do most of it in one direction (front to rear like going "with the grain" with wood) rather than in a circular pattern.
The reason for this is it is almost impossible to get out all of the minute grooves left by the polish.
If it is done in a circular pattern, then no matter where you stand the light will be reflected towards you from the scratches. If done "front to rear" and your looking at ANY angle at the car except directly across it you will not see any of the scratches.
This applies to the polishing after waxing too.