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TR2/3/3A New is better?

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RedTR3

RedTR3

Jedi Trainee
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When my engine was out for rebuild, I decided it was a good time to replace the old "bullnose" starter with a new gear-reduction unit. This worked OK for several months until today, when I was in a parking lot trying to start and the starter would not engage. Turns out that the screws holding the starter motor came loose, and the starter motor was just flopping around. Oh well, I hate to admit that the old bullnose unit never let me down.

In order to re-tighten the screws it looks like I have to remove the starter. Another little project...I understand that the bolts to remove the starter are not easy to access...but at least the modern starter is very light.
 
They can be tighten with out removing. But I would remove it and thread sealant on the bolt. This is a common problem.
 
Thanks...to me it looked like the screw heads were behind the flange that is bolted to the flywheel cover. I'll check it out in the morning.
 
Maybe they aren't all the same? On my gear-drive, the bolts that hold the starter assembly to the mounting flange can only be accessed with the starter off the car. The bolt heads are inside the bellhousing with the starter installed.
 
Correct Randall...I think that is the way mine is also. Looks like I do have to remove the starter.
 
That top bolt through the bell housing can be a bugger to get loose. A normal wrench will not fit between the firewall and the bell housing -at least not on my 59. A crowsfoot wrench on the end of a long extension makes it much easier. Getting the lock washer back on, and the nut started is difficult no matter what tools you use.

A few months back, I tired of the intermittent nature of my 'original' starter and put in a hi-torque starter. It almost made me late for a car show. Some failures wait for the least opportune time. It's been a few months and I'm planning a long trip, so I hope I do not share your experience with loose screws.
 
Yes, I know about the problem with the top bolt....I found an old forum thread where a guy actually used 3M glue to temporarily attach the nut to his finger in order to get it started. I may try that.
 
A helicoil works well in the top hole ( set in the bellhousing ) . It can be installed with the engine in place with some care.
 
:iagree:

I've also added a simple heat shield (cut from "roofing tin") to help keep some of the exhaust heat away from the starter motor. Too soon to say if it will really help the bearings live longer, but it can't hurt.
 
Hey guys, I just discovered a very easy way to get the top nut and washer "started". I used a magnetic parts picker-upper to hold the nut and washer.

Worked like a charm; the nut went on in seconds...

Tim
 

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Now is that the starters fault
Or the installer?
 
RedTR3 said:
Hey guys, I just discovered a very easy way to get the top nut and washer "started". I used a magnetic parts picker-upper to hold the nut and washer.

Worked like a charm; the nut went on in seconds...

Tim
Click to expand...

Now that's a great idea. I have been known to super glue the nut to my finger. I can only do one or two that way before I run out of skin to glue to...
 
In the past, I have used masking tape to tape the nut to an open-end wrench. That held it much like the glue suggested above.

Since then I cave cut a round hole in my gearbox tunnel and now I can access the nut after I lift out the tunnel carpet and remove a large rubber plug I have to close the hole.
 
RedTR3 said:
Hey guys, I just discovered a very easy way to get the top nut and washer "started". I used a magnetic parts picker-upper to hold the nut and washer.

Worked like a charm; the nut went on in seconds...

Tim
Click to expand...
Thanks, a real Top Tip!
 
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