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Datsun 5 speed Quick shift/short shift prototype

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What type stainless?
 
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Gerard

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Gerard

Gerard

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Trevor,

Since you have two Rivergate kits, maybe you could measure how far from the left side the centerline of your shift mechanism is from the lip of the tunnel opening. I have no reason to believe it sits any further to the left than do installations with my kit, but since the rear mount is different, I'm curious. Attached is a photo from one of my installs. Are yours positioned about the same?

20170217_175759.jpg
 
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From memory, it looks about the same. In my bugeye the shifter will just barely contact the lip of the aperture if you hold the shifter over in neutral but does not contact in first and second, but in my midget it has clearance. Let me double check that today.
 
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OK, I measure from the face of the fulcrum bolt to the OUTSIDE edge of the flange. It averages 0.62 inches.
The cut out you see on the flange is from the previous short shift I made. It fouled the can and I never got around to re engineering it... life got busy.
 

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So ... forget what I wrote about rattling ... that was when I had my short shifter installed. My memory is pretty bad these days.
 

Jim_Gruber

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Trevor,

Isn't that true for all of us and you're a youngster amongst this group.
 

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It turns out that converting my shifter boot from "outie" to an "innie" made a big difference. It now works pretty good (and perfect in 3rd and 4th). 1st is still a tiny big scrunched but not excessively... AND the boot stays in place without any adhesive.

Neutral.jpg
 
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Gerard

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BTW, the way you have it installed now is the correct way.

It turns out that converting my shifter boot from "outie" to an "innie" made a big difference. It now works pretty good (and perfect in 3rd and 4th). 1st is still a tiny big scrunched but not excessively... AND the boot stays in place without any adhesive.

View attachment 48802
 

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Hehehe... well, I always liked it the other way. At least now I'm correct. :rolleye:

[I should have known because the production stamps on the rubber were previously facing out.]
 
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Picture from machinist of shift lever in stainless. This is the finished product. Hard to believe it's even nicer than the prototype. Anyone who orders a billet knob, I'm told the knob will clock perfectly when tightened down, which will eliminate the need for a jamb nut. I don't have pictures of the finished knobs yet.

These guys do phenomenal work!

shifter.jpg
 
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drooartz

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I'm excited to get mine.
 

Jim_Gruber

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Me too but I'm late Summer at this point before I will have new engine ready to drop in Bugsy and the 5 speed. Resolved rusty gas tank and plugged pickup issue today.
 
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Rut can give you guidance to make your own. If he is not on here try reaching him on the mgexperience
 

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I got a chance to install and test drive a Bugeye with the prototype today. The results are even better than I expected. The volunteer who brought his car over said the shifting actually felt better and more positive than with the original shift lever. I only had some brief seat-time, but when comparing the two, it felt that way to me as well. Shifting is crisp and positive.

View attachment 48504
[only realizing that this thread is old, oops]

This is impressive, Gerard.
You may recall that I sort of copied your original 5 speed shifter (only from photographs - where I got really lucky) back in 2016 or so. I posted earlier in this same thread.
 
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The one I made (well, a TIG-welding buddy made for me).
 

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