Sticky Steering

[Shifter]

I've got a '65 BJ8 with a steering issue I can't seem to resolve. It's recently received a new steering box, and pretty much every moving part in the front end has been replaced with new items, including swivel pins and bushings, top trunnions with adjustable innards, tie rods and ends, bearings, etc. An alignment was done and tire pressures are even. After the box was installed but prior to all the other work, I experienced an issue with the steering "tightening" while driving. That is, the car would steer fine at first, but after just a short while, something would bind such that I'd lose all return to center, and turning the wheel would become more and more difficult. I replaced the swivel pin bushes as one was noticeably loose, thinking that would solve the issue. The other work followed that since it was all apart anyway. Still, the problem persists, leading me to think it's something with the box. I've moved the adjuster several times, trying everything from about 1/4 turn out to even 2+ full turns out, all with the same binding. I cleaned out the box and replaced grease with fresh Penrite. All fasteners are tight, and I don't see any odd movements of any components while turning the wheels. The steering has always turned freely and easily when the front is in the air, with no strange noises or binding at any point.

I'm at a loss as to where to go from here. Could the steering arm be somehow creating a bind in the box when the suspension is loaded? Could it be that the box installer added or deleted some shims/washers incorrectly? What else should I check?

 

[Bob_Spidell]

First, welcome to The Forum. Second, compliments on a thorough, well-written explanation of the manifestation and symptoms of the issue; pre-answering--is that a word?--many of the questions you were likely to get from this crowd anyway.

My first question is, and I think it's OK to ask (Reid?), from whom did your new steering box come from? I have heard, anecdotally, of a possible issue with the Denis Welch 'uprated' steering box that is similar, but not exactly the same as your issue. I've communicated with a Healey owner who described an issue with his DWM box, but it was mostly a binding problem at or near lock (either side). As I'd bought--but not yet installed--a DWM box I inquired of DWM and got a call from Jeremy Welch himself, who informed me in typical self-deprecating, understated Brit fashion that the other guy was, essentially, 'full of it.'

Normally, when I hear of an issue that begins or worsens after a period of driving I think 'heat-related' but, there shouldn't be any expansion or other issue where tolerances aren't especially tight and most components are metal, and some would be hardened at that. The first thought that comes to mind, without much if any deliberation, is wheels and tires--what sizes and brands do you have? I know some steering weirdness can be from either defective or sub-par tires or wheels. The other thing that comes to mind is the thrust washer setup in the king pins. I drove both my Healeys a couple days ago after putting them 'on ice' as I recovered from hip replacement surgery and thought 'Wow, the BJ8 sure steers easy,' then I got in my BN2 and thought 'Man, this thing is a beast,' though it's a lighter car, with smaller wheels and tires (165/80R-15 on 4.5" rims vs. 185/70R-15 on 6" rims). Years ago, I'd installed Torrington bearings in place of the bronze thrust washers on the BJ8 and thought, at the time, that they didn't make much of a difference but comparing the two cars on the same day has convinced me otherwise. I'd also replaced the BN2's steering capstan with a 15" wood-rimmed wheel and, well, now I know why the cars came with huge steering wheels.

Beyond that, I can only say that this problem will probably need to be solved in a 'holistic' fashion; i.e. there may not be any one thing causing the problem but it may be a combination of things. The fact the issue occurs over time makes no (immediate) sense, but may be key in solving the problem. One thing that just occurred to me--and it's a long shot, and I don't know if it's even possible--is the seals on the steering box rocker shaft. It's conceivable--barely--that something, the rubber likely, deforms with heat (as a rule, I always suspect any rubber components I've bought in the last 20 years or so, until they're proven worthy.

 

[MikeAH100M]

I had tight steering after refurbishing the steering box and idler arm on my BN2. A mechanic friend suggested that I loosen up the steering box components, place jacks under the spring plates so that there is weight on the suspension and then retighten everything. I previously had jack stands under the frame rails when I did the first installation. Made a big difference, however, would not explain why your car would steer fine at first and then tighten.

 

[Shifter]

I had tight steering after refurbishing the steering box and idler arm on my BN2. A mechanic friend suggested that I loosen up the steering box components, place jacks under the spring plates so that there is weight on the suspension and then retighten everything. I previously had jack stands under the frame rails when I did the first installation. Made a big difference, however, would not explain why your car would steer fine at first and then tighten.

Thanks Bob and Mike for the replies. The box came from AH Spares, along with the new idler. I've got two sets of wheels/tires, one Minatour set and one set of 72 spoke wires, both with 185 section Vredesteins. All tires are "near" new, and I've swapped them around to see if that makes a difference, but it doesn't. (Pressures are set at 30 PSI all around.) The steering wheel is 15". Along with all the other front end work, I installed the Torrington bearings. I'm familiar with old car heavy steering (ref. my 2 ton '54 Chevy truck), but this is well beyond what might be considered normal.

I'll be doing some more work today, starting with opening the box again and removing the fluid/grease to see if I can assure the top and bottom bearings are in place, and the correct shims are in the end cover. From there I may try running it with a lighter lubricant, such as gear oil, to perhaps find out if the peg bushing is not getting lubricated by the Penrite.

Still, I'm stumped by the fact that it happens while driving, even on short trips (5 minutes) and low speeds (<25 mph), and in relatively cool ambient temperatures (under 60F). If it was heat related, it seems I'd need to be generating a lot more heat! So I keep returning to the thought it's more about the weight and/or dynamic forces from the front end and steering components, although I don't have a clue what that could be!

 

[BoyRacer]

If you backed off the adjusting screw by 2 full turns and nothing changed, that tells me that the 6 belleville washers under the rocker arm are either not there or stacked incorrectly. There are 3 sets of belleville washers, installed in such a way that they act as springs. Each pair is coupled so the cupped side of one washer is matched to the cupped side of the other. The opposite of spooning. Each pair is stacked upon the other. As you tighten the adjusting screw the washers resist and maintain the peg at the same distance in the worm gear. As you back out the screw the washers push the peg higher in the worm gear and give you more slack in the steering wheel. Backing off the sdjusting screw by 2 full tunrs should have resulted in your steering wheel having half a turn of slack. Without those washers the peg will sit in the bottom of the worm gear groove and will bind up.

 

[Shifter]

If you backed off the adjusting screw by 2 full turns and nothing changed, that tells me that the 6 belleville washers under the rocker arm are either not there or stacked incorrectly. There are 3 sets of belleville washers, installed in such a way that they act as springs. Each pair is coupled so the cupped side of one washer is matched to the cupped side of the other. The opposite of spooning. Each pair is stacked upon the other. As you tighten the adjusting screw the washers resist and maintain the peg at the same distance in the worm gear. As you back out the screw the washers push the peg higher in the worm gear and give you more slack in the steering wheel. Backing off the sdjusting screw by 2 full tunrs should have resulted in your steering wheel having half a turn of slack. Without those washers the peg will sit in the bottom of the worm gear groove and will bind up.

Richard, thanks. That is new to me. I was aware of the belleville washers, but didn't really understand their function. It sounds like the peg should never be in the bottom of the worm gear groove (?), so if I open the lid and find that it is, I guess this would be an indicator that the washers are installed incorrectly. Here is a photo I took the first time I opened the box and removed most of the grease. If I understand things correctly, the stack of washers is visible, although it's unclear from this shot how many there are and if they are installed correctly.

 

[BoyRacer]

From what I can see it looks like the washers are properly stacked. But yes, the peg should never bottom out in the groove.

 

[Bob_Spidell]

I'm surprised a new box from AHS would come packed with grease. DWM sends a can of Miller's with theirs. Grease is usually used--at least by me--only to stop a major leak from the box (many discussions on this forum; JD Corn Head Grease seems to be preferred).