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I'm replacing the steering u-Joint in our '67 TR4A. When removing the existing U-Joint, I did not pay attention to the details. There are two sizes of holes on each side. Which size hole has the bolt head? Why?
Perry:
That rubber donut is also used on the TR6 and a number of other cars built by Triumph. It was modified over time to use a round headed cap screw (Allen head). You can use your old bolts with the addition of a washer under the head of the bolt, or use all new Allen headed bolts such as Moss Part #320-185 which is pre-drilled for the safety wire. A "top tip" is to use a 2" to 3" hose clamp to compress the thing enough to allow you to get all of the bolts lined up. Be sure to include the ground straps.
Here is a link to a good description, showing the later Allen bolts used on the TR6.
I just recalled that if you are reusing your old bolts you don' need a washer under the head as I suggested above, merely orient the donut so that the recessed holes are hidden by the adaptor clamp.
Andy, thanks for the input.
Both TRF and Moss are 2-3 weeks out to supply this part, telling me they both have the same source. I may install the old one.
Do you mean the Allen head bolts? When I did this job on my car I used slightly longer bolts bought at the local hardware store. They thread all the way through the clamp and instead of the safety wire I used lock nuts. Given that the rubber donut puts the entire assembly under tension there is no way those bolts are going to back out. I am attaching photos of what I did.
I installed my existing u-joint today. As I saw in the link in Andy's #2 post above, I used a hose clamp to compress the u-joint. It made a lot of difference in the ease of installation.
Actually, the purpose of working on the u-joint was to correct the horn that would not work consistently. I made a new ground cable and cleaned all of the bolt connection. The horn now works with the steering wheel in all positions.
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