TR6 Reveneering TR6 Dash

[ichthos]

Hello All,

I am in the process of reveneering my dash. The old veneer was shot on my original dash, so I had no choice but to remove it. I also had to make some repairs to the core itself. My Dad has had some rosewood veneer lying around for at least the last 35 years; I decided to face my dash with it. I am a decent wood worker, but I have not done much veneer work. I have already glued the rosewood veneer in place with waterproof glue. Does someone have any recommendations on how to cut out the holes? The rosewood is kind of brittle, and I am nervous about chipping or splitting it. Any suggestions would greatly be appreciated.

Kevin

 

[apbos]

Kevin
Take your time and replace the X-Acto blade if the veneer starts to crack and not cut. I used a spray bottle with some water and sprayed the veneer with some water on the brittle redwood burl dash I made for my Dad's 48 TR. It helped soften the wood and made cutting easier. Since your cutting out that area you don't have to worry about staining the wood and any wicking didn't water stain the wood enough to be a problem. After getting the area wet, remove the bulk of the material and then concentrate on your edges.

Paul

 

[71TR6]

I found the best way to cut out the holes is to place the dash veneer side down on a flat surface like a sheet of particle board or plywood. Use a sharp Xacto knife or a routing bit in a Dremel to cut out the holes to within 1/4" of the edge of the hole. Flip the dash over and chuck a sanding drum in the Dremel to remove the remaining 1/4". Make sure you keep the Dremel vertical or, even better yet, use one of the routing guides that attach to the nose of the Dremel. The sanding drum will cut through the veneer pretty easily and it will be quite noticable when you hit the side of the hole. Go slow and be patient and you shouldn't get any tearout.

 

[DNK]

Kevin,try a little sanding sealer if your going the water method. It will help keep the absorption down