couple of questions

[walshja]

decided to change all the fluids on the car, oil went fine, but what's the torque setting for the oil drain plug? not listed in any of my manuals.

went to change the transmission oil, removed the carpet to gain access to the rubber plug, removed that, but I can't figure out how to remove the fill plug, the angle is wrong for a socket to fit in there. what's the trick?

and the rear differential, I got 75w-90 synthetic, is that Ok?

thanks, joe

 

[Joelb]

oil drain plug should be gootentight. You should be able to get to the tranny fill plug with a 3/8 ratchet, other than that I don't know.

Hope it helps

 

[walshja]

man, my first night working on the mechanics, lots of hours, little to show for it.

oil drain and fill went fine

couldn't do the tranny fluid, I will take another look tomorrow and see if my 3/8 ratchet can fit

then the differential, gees, I got a 3/8 ratchet to remove the drain plug, but it wouldn't do the trick on the fill. so I had an empty differential and no way to get the fill plug out. what kind of plug is that anyway? well, I took a 3/8 ratchet and some plumbers putty then stuck 2 small washers to 2 sides of the ratchet to make it bigger, it did the trick perfectly, was able to removed the fill plug and add my 75w-90 synthetic fluid back in. closed everything up, quick test drive, and no leaks.

I put 15w-50 synthetic in, will that be OK?

Is there a special tool for the differential?

joe

 

[Sqrrig]

Easy way to do the gear box...Drain it from the bottom, and put the plug back in. (don't laugh...) Measure the proper amount of oil (2.7 US pints) Remove the shift lever. Pour oil into top of transmission. Replace shift lever.
Way lots easier than trying to get that goofy plug off of the side of the gearbox.

Don

 

[zimmy]

most of us use 20w-50 oil.....z

 

[walshja]

z, my local Walmart didn't have 20w-50, but me having 15w-50 should only mean I can go further into the winter months on the oil? I think thats correct, if I can remember how the oil viscosity ratings work.

and Don, tell me more about this trick of yours, removing the shifter, is this an easy job? and I thought I had to suck out the tranny fluid through the filler spot, a drain plug sure is easier !!

thanks, joe

 

[bugimike]

Access to the fill (on a rib case tranny) is via an 11/16ths socket - a universal in the socket and an extension of at least 6" will reach it through the access hole, a jiggle or light tap will seat it (so you dont "round" it!) and just put it back at just real good and snug! If it's in there good and tight switch to a 1/2" drive ratchet!

PS: The drain plug is the same size as the filler but bottom-center on the tranny.

 

[JPSmit]

taking shifter out is easy - unscrew & remove boot. There is a cover covering the base of the shifter. It's a bayonet type fitting - like a lightbulb - push and turn - it comes off - shifter lifts straight out. I can post a pic if you need it. (I assume this is the same for 1275's - correct others?)

 

[Sqrrig]

It's a little differant on the pre-1500 cars:
Pull the gaiter/boot off, or at least lift it up out off the way. Remove the 4 screws the hold the metal tower, remove the 3 bolts that hold the lever in place, and lift up on the lever. There should be an O-ring, spring and button under the lever-DO NOT DROP these into the gear box. "Replacement is the reverse of removal"

Don

 

[Dug]

Warning “opinion” being expressed on gearbox oil.

10-40 / 15-40 / 20-50 are all good for the non 1500 spridgets. No real issues there. Bottom line it all works.
But maybe just maybe all that’s needed is straight 30w. Given that the gearbox has no pump and is therefore not pressurized. It’s a splash sort of affair. Multi weight oils were not specifically made for a splash sort of application. The benefit of multi weight oils is getting a lube heavy enough (thickness) to run when at temperatures defined by manufactures as being safe and yet the way the molecules are arranged (in strands) will still flow at a rate in colder temps (i.e. start up).
Now 30w non-detergent is even another step. Synthetics? I’m not sold on the benefit. I’m not so sure I’d want something with synthetics attributes on my bulk rings. All that being said. It’s only an opinion based on the application from my experiences to date and information I’ve read. I’ve not read enough information about synthetics and gearboxes using bulk rings as a “wet clutch” to pre-engagement teeth of said gears. But there is still so much to understand yet.
Dug
I also still like using the proper hole to fill the gearbox by.

 

[DrEntropy]

I'll satnd up and take th' heat here... the balk rings are a friction device. They have less effect if synth oils and other "slippy" additives are introduced. If you can find straight 30W, and better 30W ND oil, use it. Your (gear) teeth will last longer.

 

[walshja]

ok, glad I couldn't get the tranny fluid changed last night, cause I would have put in Mobile 15w-50 synthetic in !!

I'll find some straight 30 weight oil, I use that in my tractor, my local Home Depot has it.

question on shifting, I know 1st gear is not synchronized, but when I'm at a light, sometime it grinds a bit when going into 1st. am I doing something wrong? seems like it happens when I have been driving for a while. and when I have been driving for a while, seems like the RPM's increase a bit to maybe 1200 at idle.

is that normal?

joe

 

[Dug]

The small grinding is wear of the bulk ring (s). It's not slowing the gear down quick enough to engage without a bit of the teeth miss-meshing. Is it normal? yep for a gearbox with some wear in it. If you were to double clutch it (quickly press and then re-press the clutch) does it make a difference? I would hazard a guess yes.
“Dug”

 

[walshja]

ahhh, I shall try double clutching

what if I put a heavier weight oil in when I do the tranny fluid? would that help? I think the previous owner said he put synthetic in, but who knows.

thanks Dug

joe

 

[walshja]

the tranny only has 39k miles, is that enough time to wear down the bulk ring?

 

[Dug]

Not really, assuming a number of things here. Do you know (receipts) the gearbox had new bulk rings? Heavier oil will make a difference. That’s why “if” I going to use a multi weight oil I’ll use 20-50.
Dug

 

[bugimike]

with Dug and Doc. on using 30W non-detergent oil for the tranny, and using the proper hole for fill-up...you can fill to the correct level (just to over-flow level!) with no guess-work when going in through the filler hole!! You can overfill going filling through the shifter, then you will have leakage from the rear bushing!!...Can get messy, that!!