New to MGs w/ a couple questions

[Damon]

Hello, I bought my wife an MG so she wouldn't bother me anymore about my toys...and I have a couple questions.
When I picked it up, the air filter housing was not attached to the carb, the PO said he just didn't put it back on the last time he took it off. Anyway, when I tried to put it back on, I realized I must be missing a few parts. Looking in the Vic Brit and Moss catalogs, I see I have the air filter housing, Temp compensator and Connector. However, I don't have whatever part(s) I need to connect these to the actual carb. It looks like there must be a metal part that bolts to the carb itself that the parts I have must then attach to. Oh, and I have the gasket that fits over the carb opening (where the butterfly is). Anyone know what the parts are called, and where to get them?
Also, after the car warms up a bit, a lighted "catalyst" warning light comes on. I can find no reference to that in Chilton, Haynes, or Midget Drivers Handbook. Any idea what this is and what it is referring to??
And finally, I have no turn signals, no four way flashers, no Hi-beams or heater fan. I checked the fuses on the firewall (all four of them???) and they are all OK. Anything else to check?
Thanks for any advice and help anyone can give me.
Damon

 

[DrEntropy]

Hiya Damon...
And welcome!

So... a '78 Midget? We gotta ~guess~ at that bit. As we do about the carb. To help ya out we need some specifics. What carb is this? The gasket at "where the butterfly is" is NOT gonna help with an air cleaner mount.

Digital pix can help ENORMOUSLY in a situation like this, too.

 

[David_DuBois]

Also, you say that you checked the fuses. How did you check them, just by eyeball? the MK I eyeball is a terribly inaccurate instrument to check fuses with, because the fuse can be blown under the metal ends of the fuse where it can't be seen. You need a multimeter set to read resistance, connected to either end of the fuse that is removed from the holder to tell if the fuse is good or not.
Cheers,

 

[davester]

Along with posting much more specific information regarding both the car and the problems, you might want to post this on the Spridget forum to get a few more answers.

 

[Damon]

Well, here's a perfect example of me thinking everyone knows what I am talking about, when I don't even know myself!!! The car is a 1978 MG Midget. i knew that, why didn't you guys??!!!! LOL!! Sorry for not conveying the full information.
We got the air filter housing thing worked out. The wife took it for a test drive, and an elderly gentleman followed her home. He had owned one years ago, and wanted to see hers. Ended up we had the wrong housing, which he remedied with some spare parts that he still had in a box in the garage.
Good deal there!
The catalyst light is the catalytic converter, it is supposed to be changed every 25,000 miles. At $200 bucks to replace, Hmm, methinks we'll live with the light on.
As far as the fuses go, I am going to pick up new ones tomorrow and replace them all, see where this leads us.
Would all those things be on the same fuse?
Now the starter is acting up, so when I pick up the fuses, I'll see if I can get a new starter at the same time. And don't get me started on the oil leaks!!

Thanks for the welcomes, suggestions, and help.

Damon
'69 XKE
'86 XJS
'78 MG Midget
'52 F1 Ford P/U

 

[DrEntropy]

'sall good, Damon.

Funny how you'll find folks along the way who will be generous enough to help, too.

In anticipation of another issue, your car... err... HER car has a 1500cc Triumph engine in it, so "Spitfire" parts are another listing you can use when th' parts monkey at th' counter asks for make and model stuff. It MAY be that a set of brushes and some TLC would fix the starter, BTW. :wink:

 

[terriphill]

And don't get me started on the oil leaks!!

Welcome to the world of LBCs! I once complained about the oil leaks and I was told it was only marking it's territory! (Tell that to my brother who has two huge black spots on his brand new white driveway,compliments of Idgy!)

 

[bgbassplyr]

Before replacing all of the fuses, check and clean all electrical connections on the fuse block, including bayonet connections and all of the grounds. Clean the starter connection and ground, too, including the battery ground to chassis.

Search the site for wiring and electrical connection questions. These problems are inherint with all lbc's and Lucas electricals.

 

[Jarhead]

Another thing to look for on the wiring is if the car sat for awhile, mice may have taken up residence and chewed some harness. I know you have to climb under the dash and in the inner fender to dash holes but it has happened to me. The lead to the start can be checked with a multi meter before disconnecting to see if you have power to it. Good luck, as said, "electrical problems are inherent to Lucas"

 

[MGZT260]

Before replacing all of the fuses, check and clean all electrical connections on the fuse block, including bayonet connections and all of the grounds. Clean the starter connection and ground, too, including the battery ground to chassis.

Search the site for wiring and electrical connection questions. These problems are inherint with all lbc's <span style="font-weight: bold">and Lucas electricals.</span>

Proper penance and sacrifice to "The Lord of Darkness" is required when dealing with Lucas. 1. Nothing makes sense. 2. If you figure it out and it works, keep fingers crossed 3. Carry a good working aluminum bodied torch (flashlight) when traveling at night, you may need it to properly beat on the fuse box to get things to work. Plastic flashlights don't work well for this.

If the light for the catalytic convertor is simply telling you that 25,000 miles is up yes, forget it. If it is relying on a sensor or two and telling you the catalytic convertor is plugged or nearly so, <span style="text-decoration: underline">do</span> replace it. It will affect power and performance and you really don't have a lot to spare. Universal CATs can be had for much less. Around $60 plus shipping on eBay.

 

[davester]

So I've got a question. If you have two Jags, do you really think you can mollify your wife with a mere MG midget?

 

[DrEntropy]

:lol:

...you're good, Dave. :wink:

As for slaggin' Joe & Sons... well, I disagree. There's NOTHING wrong with the wiring systems themselves. It's them goofy English electrons to blame.

 

[glemon]

electrons? never seen one, everybody thats actually worked on the cars knows its good english smoke that circulates around the system, and if you let the smoke out, poof, if don't work no more.

 

[DrEntropy]

I've ~actually~ worked on 'em for 40+ years. I know PLENTY of electrons personally!

...heck, some of my best friends are electrons. :smirk:

This is PURE propaganda!!

 

[Damon]

Such an amusing group! I am enjoying the banter that goes on here, as well as appreciating the advice. I am familiar with "The Prince", but was hoping to have some better luck with the MG. Oh well....
Anyway, I went and replaced the starter whether it was totally necessary or not as it was just spinning and whining, nothing else. I figured for $49 plus tax from Autozone with a lifetime warranty, it beats tearing it down and rebuilding the old one. Perhaps SOME peace of mind with the electricals...

MGZT260--I'll look on e bay for a catalytic converter for the car, anything specific I need to know for ordering the 'universal' catalytics? Might as well replace it as well, I don't want the wife getting eaten by a semi when the car loses power on a hill...

Thanks again, guys!

Damon
'69 XKE
'86 XJS
'78 MG Midget
'51 F1 Ford P/U

 

[DrEntropy]

On the electrical gremlins, the high/low beam thingie first: The lights on the car weren't fused. Suspect the dip switch or the connectors to it first. A 12V test light would be a good diagnostic tool to hunt where the electrons stop being "emboldened". Cleaning the bullet connectors on the car with "red" ScotchBrite" and applying electrolytic grease to 'em is a good practice in all cases, too.

Heater fan... motor getting power (another test light use)? If so and it doesn't spin, it will likely be from atrophy. They also can be disassembled and cleaned. If there's no voltage TO the blower motor, look to the fuse block and connections there... keep that test light handy.

Horn?!?! Car was meant to DODGE the impending shunt, not "meep" pathetically as it goes in, nose first!

Again, sounds like the button or connection at/to it... This car has one of the later "all-in-one" column mounted controls, yes? That starts to make me suspicious of the thing as a unit. *OR* that it has been replaced with one of the Tiawanese counterfeit ones... and there's a real conundrum: J. Lucas & Sons parts bein' made by cottage industry Ma & Pa Asians!! Should put th' fear in ya.

Some methodical electron chasing should reveal the defective connection or component.


Jags, huh? You poor dear.

 

[MGZT260]

Check your pipe diameter if buying pure universal cat. Check it twice if buying one "designed" as exact replacement.