Bad steering wheel shake over bumps

[Brosky]

When I go over a hard bump or separation of pavement at speed, the steering wheel shakes, or jiggles, for lack of a better word. I've ordered new shocks because it was my first thought from past experience with GM. Then I remembered this is not a GM car and the wealth of experience out here, so I decided to ask what advice the forum would bring.

When I had the car in for the O/D install the shop said that the front end trunnions and suspension looked to be in great shape and it was obvious that we took pretty good care of the car. Mileage is 53K, so I'm looking for any other suggestions.

Thanks,

Paul

 

[Keoke]

HI Paul, The first place I would look for the problem you described is in the Front end suspension components.---Fwiw---Keoke

 

[trboost]

Chances are your rack bushings are either loose or worn. An easy fix or upgrade. Have someone turn the steering wheel slightly back & forth while you observe the movement of the rack The rack should not move at all or very slightly. Some times the U-bolts loosed or the bushings become hard & worn.

Also jack up the the front end & check for excesive wheel bearing play. Most times these are looser than they should be.

 

[LastDeadLast]

Paul,

Check the steering rack bushings, mine where shot. If you're into upgrading, think about solid mounts instead. You get a little more road feel, but I like it.

Also, can you shake the steering column when the car is sitting still? If so you probably need new steering column bushings. It's not a hard job to replace, but you do need to remove the speedo and tach to get to the bolts. Having done it before, I could do the job again in a day. The first time, it took me 3 days (most of it swearing).

One more thing. On the base of the firewall inside the cockpit, check the steering column mount to see if the weld has broken loose. Over the years, people use the steering wheel for leverage getting in and out. After a while the steering column mount welds become weak and break.

Good luck,

 

[ROADSTR6]

I've got solid rack mounts and I love them. I'd suggest them if you determine your mounts have a lot of slop. Before I put on the solid mounts, my car tended to wander around alot on the road. I wasn't necessarily experiencing the same problems you are. Good luck!

 

[Guest]

If indeed your rubber rack mounts are the culprit, then I agree that changing to the solid mount variety is the best choice. Triumph used to have solid mounts but changed in the TR6 to rubber mounts. The big vendors all sell the aluminum block with steel U-bolt variety. These can fracture with too much tightening. It happened to me. Richard Good sells a really nice set that he markets off his website or through TRF. Pretty bullet proof and highly recommended.

Bill

 

[LastDeadLast]

Ditto on the Richard's products (www.goodparts.com). Anything that he sells is first class.

 

[Andy Blackley]

Second ditto on the solid mounts.
Also, the steering rack doesnt have a heck of a lot damping either, so road shocks will be transmitted right through and be felt at the wheel. There is some damping however and if the rack is worn out internally this would make that "jiggle" worse.

 

[BOXoROCKS]

Great pic, and I have always loved the word Dreadnought.

 

[Brosky]

Sorry that I'm late getting back to you guys. Thanks for all of the advice. I did see the solid mounts advertised and will check everything suggested in this post this weekend. I post my findings.

Paul

 

[Andy Blackley]

Paul: Also check that the rack has oil: if it is dry there will be practicaly no damping at all.
Boxorocks: Yeah, me too. HMS Dreadnought the first modern battleship, launched in 1906. First all big gun ship, first captial ship with steam turbine engines. Spurred a ship building arms race with Germany that culmanated in the Battle of Jutland. A great piece of British engineering too.
Rule Britannia!

 

[Dave Russell]

[ QUOTE ]
When I go over a hard bump or separation of pavement at speed, the steering wheel shakes, or jiggles, for lack of a better word. I've ordered new shocks because it was my first thought from past experience with GM.
Thanks, Paul

[/ QUOTE ]
Hi Paul,
It's surprising how much a bad shock can contribute to this problem. Especially on a car that doesn't have much front wheel caster built in.
D

 

[Brosky]

What is the recommended oil to use in the rack?

I also had the car on a lift yesterday and saw that my sway bar bushings are pretty much shot. New ones ordered a few minutes ago from TRF.

Paul

 

[Brosky]

Sorry that I've taken so long to get this done, but it was a busy weekend. The new shocks, sway bar links and rack bushings seem to have done it. I also had the wheels & tires high speed balanced due to a vibration that stated at about 70mph and got real bad at 75-80.

I chose not go with the Teflon bushings. I used the OEM type rubber and all is well.

Took it out today in the beautiful warm sun and cranked it up to 90 with the top down and it was almost a religious experience. Front end had no more float or shakes over bumps, vibrations are all gone and she felt as tight as a drum. With 78 degree weather and no clouds in the sky it was as good as it gets with a TR6 in New England.

Now if I can just get that heater blower switch fixed and the squeak in the hood area fixed before the British Invasion at the Cape next weekend all will be well.