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Air Filter Assembly question

Newkie

Jedi Trainee
Offline
I am wanting to convert my stock assembly to a filter only attachment. I have a 73 MGB with twin SU's. Any good recommendations on which way to go? I dont want anything too difficult. Its running great now, so I dont want to do too much tinkering (replacing needles etc). Which I am not good at anyways.

Thanks

Art
 
Wow, thats a lot of looks, and no responses. Maybe I need to specify what I am looking for a little better. I am looking for a KN type filter that allows the carbs to breath and at the same time, look a little better. Simple setup with a mounting plate to the SU's and a chrome cover.

Art
 
Art, if you're looking for bling and pain in the butt to work on, read no further, this is not the set up for you, but if you like the best flowing performance available, ease to work on and not expensive, then read on.

Art, I came up with something on my street MGB, that now has been copied by hundreds of MGB owners, we had did this set up for years on the race cars. It's the best flowing air filter set up you can get, it's extremely simple and easy to remove (how's a few seconds sound to remove the air filter and have full access to the carbs sound?), and here's the kicker for the price of two KN Air filters this set up can be yours, the KN air filters (about 30 bucks each) which you can get from many vendors, Summit Racing is good source.

Here's the deal you use your two stock aluminum factory velocity stacks that are normally hidden in side the stock "tea pot" air filter cans, and bolt the factory velocity stack directly to the carb body, I counter bored my two mounting holes to give it flush mount, but you can use hex bolts or button head allen bolts with no mods to the stock velocity stack (not use no gasket between the carb and v-stack), Then buy 2 K&N RU-4410 air filters, which has a rubber mounting sleeve that is exactly 3.5" ID (the same as the OD on the stock velocity stack) so the air filters just slip over the OD of the v-stack and is held on with the supplied (with the KN filter) clamp. It doesn't getting any easier and better performing than this.

Here's why I did this Art, when I got my car it that this blingy front plate back plate set up on the with threaded rod running thru the air flow of the air filter, like almost every stock and aftermarket set up offered for our cars, which are a absolute PITA to remove and work on the carbs. Sure some of these set up are very blingy, but I wanted perforamcne and ease to work on, not bling, most people like the looks of it because it looks racey, but for me it was always about performance and easy to work on.

Here's a a couple of pictures, one is of the filters installed, the other is of the factory v-stack showing how I counterbored the stack to get a flush mount on the carb.
 

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Unless it's just for appearance, or you intend to modify your engine for racing, the original stock filter assemblies are very adequate for your engine. JMHO. PJ
 
Just put K&N RC1790 on my car w/o any modifications. They have the polished tops and look great. They clamp directly onto the air cleaner stackes. You just need to get 4 1.5" bolts to attach the stacks and then clamp on the K&N's. They fit really sung.
 
Newkie said:
https://sites.google.com/site/brokenheartstudio/filtercaps

Thanks, I found something similar to what I wanted. Not Chrome, but the price is right, and I just need to paint my valve cover black again to match.

Thanks

Art

Rusty is a great young man, a true enthusiast, and runs an honest business. He makes a god product (I have his rebound straps on my V8 and have them ready to go on both of my MGCs and my MGB).

I highly recommend him.
 
Directly from the K&N store on line. They were about $38 each. Fit really nice and allow you to do carb adjustments w/ the air cleaners in place. I'll post some pictures later today.
 
Ray, before I give you a bum steer....the correct part number is RC-4230. These are the 2" high version. I sent the RC 1790 back as they looked too tall. The cost was $44 each. The K&N people were very helpful. I've attached some pix's of the setup.
 

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Okay thanks for the heads up Ralph. I'm curious though, did the taller ones fit okay? any clearance problems or did you just like the look of the shorter ones better? I liked the idea of the taller ones thinking more air rom for more air coming in etc etc.
 
The RC-1790's were too tall, the front carb had the interference issue. But, it was real close. When I look at my current set up vs. the original air cleaner set up I'm light years ahead. Hap can tell you which tapered ones he has in his pixs. They are less expensive w/o the chrome tops.
 
I used RU-1790s on my '73. They look like the setup Hap posted, just slightly bigger. The simplicity of the installation is great. When you think about it the stock installation has a number of leakage paths (through the bolt seals and at the round gasket at the bottom). The K&N's just have the big hose clamp, which isn't going to leak.

Paul
 
Hap - I have a set of EU spec HS4s that I'd like to add to my Spitfire 1500. My plan is to use a pair of MGB filter bases (velocity stacks) and a pair of RC4230's. Do you foresee any reason this wouldn't work?
 
Scott, I have not played with Spitfres in many many years, but know the inner fender comes into play with what types of air filters you can use.
 
Hap, in your first post on the subject, was your comment to not use a gasket between the carb and velocity stack? Any particular reason behind that?

Thanks

Don
 
dons66 said:
Hap, in your first post on the subject, was your comment to not use a gasket between the carb and velocity stack? Any particular reason behind that?

Thanks

Don

I'm not Hap, but if I had to guess it would be that the gasket impedes/restricts airflow. I think you want this as smooth as possible downstream of the velocity stack radius which shapes the airflow.

(the gasket ID may be slightly smaller than the carb flange and the stack).
 
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