Steering Box Leak

[Martinld123]

Hello. I need help with a leaking steering box on my 1956 BN2 Austin Healey. I have replaced old oil with
the new heavy weight oil from Moss, but still leaks oil badly.

Time to order parts and take it apart, but I need a starting point.

Thanks, Marty

 

[kodpkd]

This is the same I rented/bought from autozone. I cut about 3/4 inch off the screw, then ground the end to a slight point. This makes it easier to get to the end with a wrench and helps it to not slip off the shaft. I didn't grind it to fit on the two nubs on the arm. I maneuvered it so the nub on the inside was against the puller and the other side of the puller was on the top edge of the pitman arm. This way the puller was tilted outward so it was easier to get a wrench on it.

 

[kodpkd]

This is the puller I rented/bought from Autozone. I cut the screw off shorter.

 

[Randy Forbes]

Instead of pulling the pitman arm off, I pushed it!

I just made a wedge to slip between the arm and base of the box.

You'll also discover that there's enough room to slip BOTH of your new seals in there; the first one will now ride on an unworn portion of the shaft, and should anything get past it (I think you can count on it...) will get stopped by the second seal, albeit, working on the part of the shaft worn by the original seal.

Shows both seals in place on this MKIII box

 

[BobHaskell]

Randy, care to share the dimensions of the wedge you made?

 

[Randy Forbes]

I certainly would (share) if I could, but I'm not currently at home, though the vacation is almost over

If Steve G. happens to see this thread, maybe he can get you the dimensions quicker than I can!

The "tool" was fashioned from a piece of 1/2" thick steel bar, maybe 2" x 3"; the width of the slot would be about the same as the diameter of the shaft. The thin end of the ramp would be just enough to fit your existing gap (as seen from the edge, looks about 1/4") and the ramp need only be wide enough to clear the boss sticking out of the steering box.

I got the idea by looking at the wedges you'd use to release a Morse-taper tool; these actually slide in opposite to each other, pushing a taper fit shaft/bore apart.

If you still need the (exact) dimensions I used, you'll have to contact me sometime after Saturday via my email address in pic below.
NOTE: gallery link is outdated (current gallery link: spcarsplus.com) but the erandyforbes@ address still valid!

 

[Martinld123]

This is the puller I rented/bought from Autozone. I cut the screw off shorter.

This is the puller I rented/bought from Autozone. I cut the screw off shorter.

Good news I got steering arm off but bad news is I damaged A-arm on frame in process. Looks like weld is still good but to do it right I have to remove coil spring to make repairs. What a mess. I was in a hurry and that part was in the shadows. Marty

 

[kodpkd]

I like the wedge idea,,,, but I would worry about hammering against the shaft of the steering box. With the puller there isn't any pressure on the shaft or box. Pulling on the arm while pushing on the shaft equalize the pressure. I found a PCV fitting that fit perfect to pound the seals in. I did get both of the Moss seals in.

 

[Randy Forbes]

Actually, you don't so much drive it IN, as you do DOWN. Put it in place, hit DOWN, scoot it in a little further hit down again, and repeat, if necessary.

Yes, IDEALLY, when clearance allows, you'd use a puller imparting loads on ONLY to two (2) components involved. But when using a puling results in damage, causing addition work/assemblies to be removed, well, you get the picture...

I have a piece of steel tubing that's the same o.d. as the shaft that insures I get the seal(s) started straight (slips into the bushes) then it's only light taps to send them home. While I have a myriad of bushing and seal "tools" for such things, I find that most often, I grab the best sized socket to do the job!