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XKE Engine Polishing

Mark Sigfrinius

Senior Member
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O.K. you BCF guys. I have finally come to the conclusion that after nearly 18 years of languishing in storage my '67 XKE needs a decent engine/carb etc. clean up and polish. Now remember. I am basically a couch potatoe and in a wheelchair so a lot of reaching and hand rubbing isn't fun or good for my arms. What is the best and easiest way without removing the cam covers etc. to get the engine looking decent? I don't mind investing in some mechanical tools and some good polish but where do I start? Any help would be much appreciated and thanks in advance for your replies........ /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif
 

jamesdean

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I have had a Ft. Lauderdale restoration shop for 30 years,(though now I am mainly selling my hoard of parts; as downtown development has downsized me). so I have done this several ways. The only way to really do it right, is remove the cam covers. If you can get 2 or 3 strong friends to remove the bonnet for you, then place the car on 4 stands, at a good height for you to work, and remove the wheels; the job is easier. Order a new set of COPPER washers; and if needed cam cover nuts. Old chrome looks fine, until you polish the aluminum. Contact TIP and Eastwood, Explain your task; and buy a fine de-burring wheel, and be sure you have the appropriate speed motor or bench grinder to mount it. Use gloves and goggles; a full plastic face shield is good. Aluminum dust and polishing compound is bad to breathe; so look into a dust collection system, and use good ventilation.. Clean or degrease the parts first; cheap lacquer thinner, Nitrile gloves, and wet rag-dry rag does the job.The de-burring wheel looks like abrasive felt; if you hit a corner or sharp edge, it will quickly eat up a forty dollar wheel. Used carefully, it will save hours removing the gray corrosion.Keep moving the part, and wear leather gloves. If the part gets hot, work on the other one. You next need to invest in a good buffer, with several wheels, and grades of compound.Call Tip and Eastwood; follow their advice, Explain you do not have great arm strength; they may recommend a smaller buffer. Mount it at a comfortable height. Same precautions plus two; buffing dust is nasty and dirty; collection is really important, AND, a big buffer can be dangerous.Practice on scrap aluminum, and even if you get good; it might still grab a carb dashpot out of your hand, and throw it against the wall. a fishnet catch net is a wise idea behind your buffer. I generally clean parts with lacquer thinner when changing buffing compound grades, and use a different wheel for each grade. Use a clean wheel for final buffing. Once all this is done, clean and polish with NeverDull with a soft cloth, then assemble with new gaskets, the new washers and nuts. after that; once a month, you need to hand polish with Neverdull; by now the hard work is done, and it's a labor of love. You might consider before fitting the cam covers; polishing the smooth parts of the head, with a dremel type tool, and small felt wheels. Also; buy an inexpensive jamb paint gun, call SNG Barret, and order a pint of correct gold head paint. This will be a good time to replace hoses; call XK's Unlimited; order a set of their Kevlar hoses AND a set of Jubilee British hose clamps. It takes no more labor to fit a British hose clamp, than an American hose clamp.To be REALLY correct; restore and reuse the original CHENEY hose clamp. New Jubilee are better than old Cheneys for any car that is used and judged under 98 points. Just don't throw the Cheneys away. I know you were looking for an easier way, but in the long run; this is the best way; and will give you great personal awards for years.
James Dean, Ft.Lauderdale; jamesdean ;jamesdean@jaguru.net
 
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Mark Sigfrinius

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Dear James,
Whew. There goes my easy fix! So much for a magic polish in a bottle, a rotary polisher and a few hours of a Saturday morning. I will most certainly print out your instructions and thank you for spending so much time answering my question. It is appreciated.
 
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