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Un-joints - I don't remember them being this hard!

svtmikey

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I have been trying to replace my drive (propeller) shaft U-joints on my 69 GT6, and the only way I can get the new ones in is to push them in with an arbour press. I don't ever remember U-joints being this tight before. Also once I get them in, I can't seem to push them in far enough to get the retaining clips back on.
I got the new ones from Vctoria British, and I am pretty sure they are the correct ones.
Has anyone else had this problem... Am I doing something wrong..do I perhaps have the wrong U-joints, are the stars not aligned properly.
This is my first rebuild of a British car, so I have no prior knowledge base to fall back on!

Thanks

Mikey
 

DNK

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Deja vu all over again. Hey Daleyou want to chime in on this??
 

Brosky

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Re: Un-joints - I don't remember them being this h

Did you clean out the inner diameter of the yokes where the cups and the retainers fit into before reassembling? I used to sand them out with 80- grit paper, then WD-40 and a final wash with carb cleaner before assembly. The slight amount of dirt and rust that builds up can be a bear if not cleaned properly.

I've used the old caps along with sockets in a BIG vise to press (force fit) the parts together, so that is not unusual, but they should set uniformly, unless you dropped a needle bearing down on it's side. That will end up cracking the cup as happened to Tinster a week or so ago. See his previous posts for pictures.
 
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svtmikey

svtmikey

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I didn't really clean them out that much...they felt pretty good when I ran my finger over them, but I did paint them, and thinking about it now, I would bet that's enough to make stick real bad.
I was careful about not messing up the needle bearings, as I have done that in a previous life, but only once...ok maybe twice...but no more than that.

Thanks

mikey
 

PeterK

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I always use a vise and/or a press, buf if they don't go in all the way, then probably a needle fell in while you were assembling them. I use an extra smear of grease across the needles to glue them in place before assembling the cup to the yoke. Then double check as you push the cup on.
 

gjh2007

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I smear an EXTRA dab of grease in the cup & if it has a grease fitting I leave it out so it doesn't cause any hydraulic pressure when you are pressing them in.
The guys are right, a Big vise is the only way to go with some good old sockets that fit snuggly across the caps to put all the pressure along the edge, not the center.


I did my 250 prop shafts a month ago after not having done a TR in 25 yrs & they went well, couldn't justify the $20 each at the shop to have them pressed in.

Keep us posted
 
T

Tinster

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Re: Un-joints - I don't remember them being this h

Mike-

Small world, I was on my other computer checking
out how to install driveshaft u-joints myself
at the funeral home.

I gave mine to the "Professionals" two weeks ago
and they buggered them up to a fare-three-well.
Needle bearing popped out during install and they
kept on pressing the cap until it split. A good
photo from my driveshaft thread.

I am now waiting for the new u-joints. Paul has sent
me a new drive shaft and in maybe a week I'll try
the install myself with sockets, a large hammer, some
super glue for the needle bearings, grease nipple out
and prep all the u-bolt holes with #600 emery paper and
xylene to remove the crud.

PS: Maybe it's just been my bad luck but I stopped
ordering from Vicky quite some time ago due to their
parts falling into pieces or not fitting properly.

I have had no problems with TRF or Moss.

d

shatter.jpg


needle.jpg
 
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svtmikey

svtmikey

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Re: Un-joints - I don't remember them being this h

VERY interesting. I have always ordered from Vic Brit, because, they are more expensive, but they always ship so fast.
Maybe I'll try someone else for a change, since I have to redo them now anyway.
Nice pic's....Man, they really forced those in!!! That's exactly what I was worried about, when I was having to use so much force to get mine to slide in. Looks like I better get out the grease and emery paper myself.

Let you know

Thanks
Mikey
 

Scott_Hower

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Re: Un-joints - I don't remember them being this h

I don't use grease when installing UJs. I "glue" the rollers in place with Moly engine assembly lube (the kind that comes in a squirty tube). It is really sticky, but less dense than grease. I also remove the rollers from the cup and clean them thoroughly along with the spider. COUNT THE NEEDLE ROLLERS when you install them to make sure you've got them all. Leave the zerk out.

Once pressed, reinstall the zerk and give a couple of pumps with the grease gun. I use Mobil 1 synthetic red grease.
 

tomkatb

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Re: Un-joints - I don't remember them being this h

Oddly enough if you take the drive shaft to a driveline shop they install u-joints including the joint around here for about $25-30 each. I know as we were in a hurry and had my sons Chevelle checked for straightness, balanced and two new joints for about $75.

AutoZone and others stock the joints. It is not necessary to go to one of the specialty shops. Try to get something not made in China.

AutoZone will loan you the press to put them in for free. It looks like a beefy c clamp. It is also used for struts somehow.

I went to Harbor freight and bought a cheap Chinese u-joint press on sale for $20. It is normally $40. It is much easier than the vise which I have done several times.

https://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=38335

The pic above is the classic one of the a bearings falling out and it does not fit pic. I have done that. Took an hour of fooling with it to figure out what I did wrong.

Larry
 
T

Tinster

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Re: Un-joints - I don't remember them being this h

Gotta question. As seen in the photo avove,
I had to grind off the u-joint end cap.

Is that standard procedure? Pound on the u-joint
until the end cap moves out enough to grind it
off?. I trie vice grips and channel locks and could
not twist the end caps off.

I checked our local Sears store. $340. for a u-joint
clamp. Ouch.

d
 

DNK

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Re: Un-joints - I don't remember them being this h

Just heard from a friend on another forum. He has run into the same problem. Being the kind of guy he is he had to find out What the ****?
He discovered with 2 brands of joints they where diferent sizes and 1 had 28 needles inside and the other had 25. I know he bought 1 from the TRF. I don't know if both where from there. He is going to do calibration test on both for sizes and the like. More to come,so Dale yours might not have been a fluke. Do you still have the box they came in?
 
T

Tinster

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Re: Un-joints - I don't remember them being this h

Yes, I have the box. I;ll post later, Wendy
wants to go chair shopping.

d
 

DNK

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Re: Un-joints - I don't remember them being this h

With your luck the chair won't have any foam underneath,just chicken feathers.But with all the money the 6 has cost just say the sky's the limit
 
T

Tinster

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Re: Un-joints - I don't remember them being this h

Yupper, the sky WAS the limit.

Wendy's new Eames reading chair and foot stool-

$4,000. custom crafted, natural cherry wood with
dark green leather is now on order to be fabricated
in Wisconsin. 6 to 8 week delivery. "Free" delivery!

Gosh, that a litle LESS than I finally paid to have a functional ignition key switch on Crypty.

I'm betting Wendy will get a whole lot more enjoyment
from her $4k than I got for mine.

d
 
T

Tinster

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Re: Un-joints - I don't remember them being this h

Back on topic:

The u-joints I purchased are Hardy Spicer and came in the
Roadster Factory set of 6 kit.

Here in one right of the box this PM.

The second photo is a close-up of inside one of the end
caps removed- right from the box.

I spend the better part of 2 hours grinding off one endcap
so I could remove a u-joint. There's gotta be a better way.

hsujoint1.jpg


hsujoint2.jpg
 

DNK

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Re: Un-joints - I don't remember them being this h

Dale- I am still waiting on the joint info

From my friend who was checking out his material[color:#FF0000][/color]
 
T

Tinster

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Re: Un-joints - I don't remember them being this h

DNK:

Info in photo above.
Original box.

d
 
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