Wedge TR8 Header Install

[tr8todd]

Exacto knife and the drill press.

 

[DNK]

Drill Press?
Got pics of that?

 

[tr8todd]

I'm sure you can visualize it. It's an upright machine about 6 feet tall with a table and a drill mounted above it. Great for putting holes in things like wood, metal and header gasket material. Use the press to drill the holes for the bolts and at the four corners of the exhaust port cut out. Works better if you stack several together at a time.

 

[GBRandy]

Been a little side tracked with things here and need to get to the wrench turning part of this header change.

Anyway, should the mounting side of the headers look like this? The raised area around the port concerns me.

 

[DNK]

No, I had to have mine ground flat.
You would think that was taken care of by now.
I thought enough people have said something about it.
Take it to your favorite machine shop.

 

[Mickey Richaud]

That's how mine looked, Randy, and I had the same concern. But when I thought about it, I realized the flange plate would have to be spot on to get a proper seal. This way there's less metal to have to mate to the head. Installed them with no issues.

 

[GBRandy]

Don: That's how I felt.

Mickey: I understand that concept, but I do not think it is proper. I am pretty sure it will work, but it might look a little "chop shopped".

Considering these came fully powder coated, they are either going in the car or going back.

Anyone have close up pictures of The Wedge Shop's headers actually installed?

 

[Mickey Richaud]

I'll see if I can find pictures from mine - the one Brosky has now. If not, maybe he can shoot one to you.

 

[GBRandy]

Thanks!

 

[Mickey Richaud]

Best I can do - can't really tell much from here:

 

[Mickey Richaud]

One more:

 

[DNK]

What kind of pic are you looking for?

 

[DNK]

Here is my flange

 

[GBRandy]

What kind of pic are you looking for?

Looking for a close up of the installed header. One that would show how bad the clearance looks as it will not be flush with the head. If it is minimum I might live with it. If it shows a sizable gap I will regroup.

 

[DNK]

Wouldn't be flush with the head. "member, gasket there.

 

[GBRandy]

Here is my flange

That's more of what I expected to see.

Did you consider cutting out the connection material between ports? The OEM ones do not have that.

AS for flush mount / gasket....right, I know that but still a gap will exist and I do not want it to be:

Head
Gasket
1/8 gap
Header

 

[DNK]

Randy, just sent the only pic I think would help to
"tessfamily.com

 

[GBRandy]

Perfect....thank you.

But that's how it SHOULD look. My question is how does that close up shot look with the way these headers are built.....

 

[DNK]

I would say not much different.
It's not the look it's the chance of leaking eventually.
Hopefully the East Coast boys will chime it too.

I don't even think you could see that there was a difference by sight

 

[tr8todd]

That raised lip is the sealing area of the header against the head. It is suppose to be there. The thinking is greater pressure per square inch of sealing area will lead to a better seal. Remember, the header gasket is under tremendous heat and pressure. The smaller sealing area allows for thermal expansion, and concentrates the clamping force. Remove the raised area only if you like replacing gaskets often. They install easier if you cut the flange so that there is two flanges serving 2 ports apiece instead of one long flange.