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TR2/3/3A TR3 Engine Rebuilt & Installed

MGTF1250Dave

Jedi Knight
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Aloha all,

I have completed a rebuild of the original engine of my TR3. It all started with an intermittent and unusual noise. After several weeks of searching for the source and trying to ignore it, I decided in the long run I should take the engine apart instead of waiting for some expensive failure. I received my hints from the forum on possible causes of the noise and it turned out to be failed piston wrist pin bushing. It had started to break apart and bits of it were discovered in the oil pan.

This project was my first major mechanical repair/rebuild. I had the crank shaft professionally checked out and the mains needed to be turned down. The machine shop also balance the rotating parts, checked the pistons and connecting rods. New main, rod bearings, thrust bearings and wrist pins were installed. I replaced the rings, tappets and upgraded to stouter push rods. The oil pump, timing chain, sprockets, cam shaft and cam bearings were inspected, measured and reused. I also installed a new rear main seal, the one developed by Mad Marx that does not require machining the scroll on the crankshaft.

While I was working on this project my son lent me a working TR3 engine from his restoration project so I could continue to drive my car. As always these project take longer than estimated, so it took about 15 months from removal to reinstall.

While doing the last engine transplant, I replaced my leaky and patched exhaust system, replaced a leaking gear box rear seal and inspected the steering box.

The good news is the engine started on the first attempt and all fluids seem to be staying inside. It was a great feeling of accomplishment.
 
That sounds great I always enjoy your posts. I wish I would have used a different main-seal. I went with the old original and it leaks. The only suggestion I would have is to make sure the mixture is right and choke is off as quick as possible on a new engine. ( but Hawaii) I had a new engine not seal up good on the rings once and near as could be figured out was that it was running too rich and kept washing out the seat, but I am not sure. Basically, put some new rings a couple years later with the engine in the car. Love that design.
steve
 
Congratulations Dave. What a gratifying sound to have the engine fire up like that. You sure did a bunch of the right things.
Good on yer, Tinkerman
 
Yeah!
And there was much rejoicing.

I think it's great that you were able to notice a new sound, and realize it wasn't right before it became more of a problem. -not that the problem wasn't big enough already.

Congratulations. How long do you suppose it will run until another overhaul is required?
 
Thanks guys. After a short drive I think I need to adjust the oil pump pressure relief. I get about 70 PSI at idle on start up and about 80 to 90 PSI at about 2000 RPM. Even after the engine warms up oil pressure is about 70 PSI. I'm using 20W50 oil now, but perhaps I can use 10W40 or 10W30 now that bearing clearance is tighter. The gauge is good, I had it calibrated recently.

I'm looking forward to see how well the rear main seal works. I need to run the car awhile to see, but so far everything is well.

Hopefully I can good 100,000 miles before I need to yhink about engine work again.
 
There has been a lot of talk about where to set the relief valve.I recall that the original factory service manual said 60 PSI @3000 hot (more or less).This will vary depending on the oil and tightness of the bearings. but if you set it too high the gauge can fail(north of 100psi).....dont ask how I know this..
MD(mad dog)
 
Hey Dave,

Good job on the rebuild!

Personally, on a newly rebuilt motor I'd try a lighter oil first, which may reduce the oil pressure a bit. I always save the 50W for my worn out stuff - to stretch it to the next rebuild.

Have fun driving...!

John
 
Congratulations! That first start was the most nerve-wracking point of my entire restore since I hadn't tackled anything like that before.

Scott
 
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