I do it somewhat differently: Push the tube up high enough that you can make sure the head is engaged with the slot before it touches the steering wheel (after having made sure the finger for the cancellation ring is at the bottom). Make sure the steering wheel is centered, and hold the control head with the turn lever pointing straight up (in the center position), then push the head down into the wheel (which will also push the tube out through the steering box). The head should go down until it almost touches the wheel (no more than 1/8", mine is about 1/16"). If not, pull it back up, resolve the problem, and start over. Once the head is in place, immediately tighten the 3 grub screws. Now you don't have to worry about the wheel getting turned while you go about tightening the gland nut, connecting the wires, etc.
If doing this with an adjustable wheel, start by adjusting the wheel as close to the dash as possible, so the stator tube winds up in the right place. After locking the stator tube, you can adjust the wheel back out to check on the wires.