inner sills

[Superwrench]

I am replacing what is left of the inner sills on my BT-7. The new Kilmartin are 2 piece units. Were the originals 2 piece and were they spot welded at points to form the box shape. There is nothing left to see if there were spot welds or not. I am not real worried about originality but want to keep it some what original. thanks

 

[RAC68]

Superwrench,

If my memory is accurate, yes, the sills are composed of 2 pieces. When installing the new sills, be careful to align the door spacing and support the door openings with bracing or you may see some sagging and door binding after you complete the task.

Additionally, I have read that some have reinforced and stiffened the overall frame by inserting a section of box frame inside the sills. At your stage of reconstruction, I would investigate this relatively simple addition.

All the best,
Ray (64BJ8P1)

 

[big6]

I punched and plug welded every 1 ½ inch on the top and lower sections of the inner seals. I plug welded a double row at the wider flat section on the lower side. When welding the seal assembly to the outriggers be careful not to overheat the inner seal. It will draw in if overheated by welding. If you overheat and it does draw in be sure to work the inner seal back into position. Locating the tapered inner seal is critical also. The only measurement for position the inner seal horizontally is from the front where it is welded to the front wheel inner arch and front outrigger. Vertical installation measurements are provided. I would look closely at your outriggers as they probably will need replacing as well. If you need to replace the inner seals on both sides be sure to do only one side at a time.

 

[germanmichel]

Hello,

what I have seen, spot welding is used only on the top. Additonal there are used only short weld seams to fix the two pieces together.
I have also to do this work, and I ask me, <span style="font-weight: bold">is it possible to weld the parts together outside the car and insert the whole box of the two pieces in the car ?</span> It should help to weld easy and in a good quality.

Because of stiffeness reason,I bought two sills of sheet metal with thickness of 1.5mm ( But there are heavy)

I agree to RAC68, because I know from two Healey specialists that it is very important to support the door openings because of collapsing the door area. Also the positioning to the outside ,to avoid the risk of door touching on the aluminium shelfs.

Bye michel- who is imho on restoration delay....

 

[John_Progess]

Superwrench,
I welded mine as per my originals that is about a 1 1/4" stitch weld every 5 inches along the top and bottom seams. This creates a nice strong section for the outer portion of the body. If you want more stiffness, you can add a 1" square tubing to the inside top and bottom welded to the inside of the sills before you weld them together. I did not know about this added feature when I did mine but I don't think my car is going to see very much rough treatment as long as I own it so I don't know if it is that important. Be sure you primer the inside good before you weld them together. Have a good day!

John

 

[Superwrench]

Thanks guys ! That should get me in the ball park. Bob

 

[stevebn2bj7]

Make sure you have the body on the car when you do this. You need to get the doors in alignment as close as possible to true before you weld them in. I have done this by jacking it just behind the front outrigger with the engine in place. I have doe it three times by this method. Also, you can jack up the scuttle prior to welding the hinge pillar and foot well pieces on to help get the doors in alignment. This is critical if you want the body to line up later.