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TR6 Gear Shift Knob Challenges

BierRunner

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Bought a lovely gear shift knob from Moss, made of wood with a nice Union Jack on the face. After screwing it on I tightened the nut underneath to make it tight but it just pushed the knob off and stripped the inside of the knob (must just be drilled wood). Assuming user error (it always seems to be for me), figured I tightened it too much so I ordered another. This time, tried to carefully and slowly tighten and, same result. However, not wanting to make the same mistake twice, I stopped immediately. Now, it is serviceable but twists a little when I shift which I find annoying.

Questions for the group:
  1. Am I installing this incorrectly?
  2. Is there a company, besides Moss, that sells a more durable product?
 
Bought a lovely gear shift knob from Moss, made of wood with a nice Union Jack on the face. After screwing it on I tightened the nut underneath to make it tight but it just pushed the knob off and stripped the inside of the knob (must just be drilled wood). Assuming user error (it always seems to be for me), figured I tightened it too much so I ordered another. This time, tried to carefully and slowly tighten and, same result. However, not wanting to make the same mistake twice, I stopped immediately. Now, it is serviceable but twists a little when I shift which I find annoying.

Questions for the group:
  1. Am I installing this incorrectly?
  2. Is there a company, besides Moss, that sells a more durable product?
The better question to ask , -- is how do I use these to make them work for me?
My answer would be for you to obtain 3 or 4 thin ( about 1/16" thick) strips of wood about 1/4" wide and just short of the depth of the hole in the knob. A good hardwood like oak is preferred. Space the three pieces in the knob and I would use some wood glue to hold them in place. Let them set overnight. You may need to do one strip at a time to keep each piece in place. You can try this without the glue to try it out.
Now try to screw the knob onto the lever. If it does not start you may need to sand down the front edge of the wood pieces.
My estimate would be that they drilled the hole in the knob to large for the lever. So you are adding some wood to replace that.
When they send you lemons -- make lemonade.
Charley
 
Thanks for letting us know about the problem. Be sure to let Moss know too!
Yes, my query is already sitting with Moss. Thank you all for your feedback.
 
Search online for brass threaded insert for wood. They come in various
sizes and you should find on \e for the thread on the shift lever. Drill the know to the size
for the insert, screw it in, and voile' threads in brass in the wood knob.
Dennis
I just bought a bag of 100 from Amazon and only needed 2. I wish they were the size you needed, I'd pay you to take a few!!

I got 1/4-20 female threads, 13mm depth, with a nice female hex to screw them into the wood -- "E-Z Lok Threaded Insert", they make many more sizes.

And if this happens to be the correct size, Moss will be getting a pack of 98 97 in the mail...
 
I just bought a bag of 100 from Amazon and only needed 2. I wish they were the size you needed, I'd pay you to take a few!!

I got 1/4-20 female threads, 13mm depth, with a nice female hex to screw them into the wood -- "E-Z Lok Threaded Insert", they make many more sizes.

And if this happens to be the correct size, Moss will be getting a pack of 98 97 in the mail...
lol, too funny.

How do you decide what size to buy?
 
In my case, I was assembling an electric fireplace and found that the factory had missed installing 2 critical inserts. I measured the thread size of the screw that was to thread into the inserts, and the depth of the hole in the wood piece. Fortunately those were the only 2 measurements I needed (although I also measured hole ID, hex wrench size, etc).

For the shift knob, I'd start with the thread size on the shift lever. I have a feeling that's where my suggestion will fall apart -- it's likely either British or UNF, and I think these inserts are only available in UNC (though if it's Whitworth thread, UNC might be close enough).

Then measure the depth of the hole in the knob to be sure you don't get one that's too long, and measure the hole ID and knob OD at the base to be sure you don't get one what will cut threads right through the knob, or a flange that sticks out too far (though you could grind the flange OD down to match the knob; you could also cut down an insert that's too long).

The E-Z Lok has a flanged end so it looks like an oversized, countersunk screw. That's probably not the style that would suit this installation. Creepily, I got a targeted ad in my email this morning from Global Industrial for E-Z Knife brand threaded inserts. Point being, there are more options out there. I'm pretty sure that Ace, Home Depot, Lowe's, and the rest carry some, just not the style/size that I needed for my project.

A Heli-Coil insert, or even better a solid insert like a Keensert, might also work. Same concept but designed for installation in metal (and available in UNF and possibly even BSW/BSF sizes). You would have to clean out the stripped threads and tap fresh threads for the insert, but at least the nut would be bearing against the solid metal of the insert instead of against wood. The only stress that the wood will have to bear is your hand moving the shift lever.
 
In my case, I was assembling an electric fireplace and found that the factory had missed installing 2 critical inserts. I measured the thread size of the screw that was to thread into the inserts, and the depth of the hole in the wood piece. Fortunately those were the only 2 measurements I needed (although I also measured hole ID, hex wrench size, etc).

For the shift knob, I'd start with the thread size on the shift lever. I have a feeling that's where my suggestion will fall apart -- it's likely either British or UNF, and I think these inserts are only available in UNC (though if it's Whitworth thread, UNC might be close enough).

Then measure the depth of the hole in the knob to be sure you don't get one that's too long, and measure the hole ID and knob OD at the base to be sure you don't get one what will cut threads right through the knob, or a flange that sticks out too far (though you could grind the flange OD down to match the knob; you could also cut down an insert that's too long).

The E-Z Lok has a flanged end so it looks like an oversized, countersunk screw. That's probably not the style that would suit this installation. Creepily, I got a targeted ad in my email this morning from Global Industrial for E-Z Knife brand threaded inserts. Point being, there are more options out there. I'm pretty sure that Ace, Home Depot, Lowe's, and the rest carry some, just not the style/size that I needed for my project.

A Heli-Coil insert, or even better a solid insert like a Keensert, might also work. Same concept but designed for installation in metal (and available in UNF and possibly even BSW/BSF sizes). You would have to clean out the stripped threads and tap fresh threads for the insert, but at least the nut would be bearing against the solid metal of the insert instead of against wood. The only stress that the wood will have to bear is your hand moving the shift lever.
That is great guidance, thank you.
 
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