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TR2/3/3A Bad parts.

DavidApp

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There have been several threads about the quality of parts available for our old cars. Here is what I got from a UK company the other day and the response I got from them.

I ordered throttle linkage parts. The bell crank lever assembly and pivot pin & bracket.

When they arrived I found that the bell crank did not have the holes tapped but considered that may be so that if your linkage thread size was different to standard you could tap it to suit your linkage. That was what they said in their reply.
The other issue was the arms of the bell crank are unequal on the origonal as this one was but the unequal legs were reversed. Not sure if that would work as I never fitted it.

The Pivot & pin mounting holes did not match the manifold so it would not fit and the shape was wrong. They said it was as illustrated on their web site.

The cost of returning them is probable more than the cost of the parts.

In the end I managed to get a combination of my old parts to work.

David

Pin.jpg
Bell crank.jpg
 
David - thanks for posting these details.

You mentioned their response on the lack of bolt holes issue.

So what did they say about "The other issue was the arms of the bell crank are unequal on the original as this one was but the unequal legs were reversed.

and

The Pivot & pin mounting holes did not match the manifold so it would not fit and the shape was wrong. They said it was as illustrated on their web site."

How do they explain the reverse of the unequal legs, and the non-matching pivot/pin mounting holes? It may be illustrated on their website, but that doesn't make the parts fit.

Thanks.
Tom M.
 
Not trying to justify the quality problems (In your case it seems they might have just gotten the part wrong) but I will say that the cost of producing low volume items is quite high and the options are to reduce the cost and quality, raise the price, or not offer the part for sale. The latter hit me yesterday when I broke a speedometer driven gear. Replacements are no longer available. Used ones are $50 to $75+ if you can find them.
At least with Triumph TRs, there were enough of them produced that used parts are still generally available.
Perhaps things might improve with modern production methods.
Tom
 
I still think they take advantage of the fact the British car buffs are so nice. I am certain I got stiffed with over $2k overall of new repro parts that were completely unserviceable. Most were ordered years before I needed them, so to long for recourse, and others were just not worth the price of shipping back.
 
This is why I always restore existing parts, if at all possible. It seems that whenever I buy something new, there is a problem with it, and I end up "restoring" the new part.

I think the parts shown in your picture could probably be fabricated fairly easily with some stock steel, careful cutting and drilling, and maybe a little soldering or welding for the pin.
 
Here is a copy of their reply.
I have spoken with the gentleman in our purchasing department who has given me some input on your situation.

He has told me that on a few occasions, customers have asked why the bell crank is not threaded. This is because you may have different thread sizes on the rods, and therefore have to be threaded yourself using a tap and die set.

Please also bear in mind, this will more than likely be a US vehicle and the carb components may differ.

Please see the attached diagram listed on our website of the pivot pin and bracket (Part listing 21), this shows a slightly more elongated bracket, the same as that you have received. This is the only bracket we are able to supply.

Apologies we cannot currently be of more assistance, I hope you are able to find a solution.

I did consider making or repairing one of my old ones but not having a lathe or mill it would have been a bit of a task.
Good excuse to get the lathe.

I do understand the cost of small production runs of these parts.

David


David - thanks for posting these details.

You mentioned their response on the lack of bolt holes issue.

So what did they say about "The other issue was the arms of the bell crank are unequal on the original as this one was but the unequal legs were reversed.

and

The Pivot & pin mounting holes did not match the manifold so it would not fit and the shape was wrong. They said it was as illustrated on their web site."

How do they explain the reverse of the unequal legs, and the non-matching pivot/pin mounting holes? It may be illustrated on their website, but that doesn't make the parts fit.

Thanks.
Tom M.
 
It has been several weeks since I ordered and received the parts so it is probable too late for that and I have some parts on back order with them

David
 
Don't talk yourself out of it you never know until you try. I think you have 30 days. Plus you got leverage especially if they want you to be a continuing customer. You can always cancel your back order and take your business elsewhere! Hard to believe that no one else has the parts you need.

Screw me once shame on them screw me twice shame on me!
 
i'm slow too criticize thinking about hitch hiking 100 miles to not get the part needed when these cars were current. Parts are way easier now and much appreciated.

TRF sold me springs that were WAY off. Quite a few dollars and a lot of work. Two emails ignored, phone call response was why didn't you contact us again, emails can get lost. So either no one stepped up or "we ignore problems until they are a pain" was the message. If you have a problem get on the phone and don't get off until resolved which this was. They did listen.
 
Both front and rear, no name but they raised the car about 3", wish I could find the photos it looked stupid.
 


I did consider making or repairing one of my old ones but not having a lathe or mill it would have been a bit of a task.
Good excuse to get the lathe.

FWIW, I have a lathe, and a mill; and I didn't use either one when "restoring" my bell crank. Just a file, a few hand reamers, and a length of hard brass tubing from the hobby store down the street.

Likely I wouldn't use them to fabricate new either, but it seemed simpler to file the pin back close to round, and sleeve the crank to suit.

Irrelevant anecdote: I just junked my old station wagon, basically because of junk aftermarket parts. GM no longer makes the part in question, and evidence suggests that the only ones available on the aftermarket are made from stale cheese instead of actual steel. The original went close to 300,000 miles; two replacements have failed to make it to 10,000 miles.
 
If you have a problem get on the phone and don't get off until resolved which this was. They did listen.

Were they able to find rear springs with the correct rate? How recently was this?
 
Hello Randall

I got a pair of springs made to the drawing in the handbook by Mike Eaton of Eaton Springs. They were not cheap but he says the spring rate is within pounds of what the drawing calls for. I have not driven on them yet but when I compared the suspension to another TR3A they seemed the same.

David
 
Were they able to find rear springs with the correct rate? How recently was this?

This was both front and rear springs 6 or 7 years ago. Here is the only info I have on them, photos of them on the car were on Photobucket.
Rear: SAH 1081 11 3/4", .535 coil, 3 13/16" dia., marked with red and green dabs of paint. Says uprated 1968-1972 made in USA on sticker.

Front: SAH 606 10 1/8", .541 coil, 4" dia., slightly thicker due to rubber coating that the rears don't have, a mismatch as well.
Says comp. grade made in USA on sticker.

Phone conversation with TRF told me they were stock ride height, 20% stiffer. I never drove them, they raised the car nearly 3".

The problem was resolved finally by getting on the phone and they were replaced with the Goodpart springs.


 
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