TR2/3/3A TR3 Generator mounting issues help needed

[Kleykamp]

Issue...the front plate on the generator is worn to a oblong slot rather than a hole. It is the lower hole that mounts to the bracket via the spacer. I'm thinking it could be welded up and then redrilled.
Question 1...Anybody tried this
Question 2...would the front plate need to be removed to weld. Seems the electricity/heat generated to weld the hole up would be detrimental to the winding,etc.
If this is not feasible:
Question 3...buy a used generator (core quality) and replace the front plate??
Question 4...how to you hold the pulley from turning when you take the nut off to remove it??? special tools required?
The generator is a working generator but sits at a angle and will not tighten up properly.
Thanks in advance for your help, Joe

 

[CJD]

Yes, I have welded mine and it worked great. No, I would not be afraid to do it assembled, so long as care is taken to minimize heat. It will be harder working with the heavy assembly, though, vs. the plate alone.

I welded the hole with a MIG using an aluminum wire liner...although the liner is not necessary if this is all the AL work you plan to do. After the weld, grind the area back flat and file smooth. I finally redrilled the hole on a press.

I used a towel around the pulley for protection and then held it in a large vise to remove the nut. I am sure there are other ways...

John

PS...Triumph Rescue in PA has bailed me out several times with old pieces of TR's. They may be able to send you a decent front plate.

 

[TR3driver]

Don't forget there is a "permanently lubricated" ball bearing inside that plate. Too much heat will reduce it's lifetime as well.

I have a "strap wrench" that works well for holding pulleys and such without damage. ISTR I got a set from Sears, but this is similar:
https://www.harborfreight.com/2-piece-rubber-strap-wrench-set-94119.html

I have also used an old fan belt and a pair of vice grips.

Note that, although they look very similar, not all the front plates interchange. I went through 3 or 4 TR generators before I found a plate that would fit my original 56 generator. It had some light damage to the mounting hole, but I was able to sleeve it with some thin-wall brass tubing. (Don't have a MIG or the skills to use it.)

While you have the generator out, be sure to check the pedestal that the front plate bolts to, and the bolt. It's very common for the outer part of the hole in the pedestal to get stripped out, and people sometimes install a longer bolt to engage the threads deeper in the hole. But the longer bolt bottoms in the hole and doesn't grip the plate as tightly as it should (leading to the sort of damage you are seeing). Mine wasn't quite stripped, but the threads looked pretty well worn at the outer end, so I stuck a Helicoil in anyway.

Hopefully this is obvious, but you should always loosen that bolt when adjusting the belt, and then tighten it firmly afterwards. Don't be tempted to leave it "kind of tight".

 

[Geo Hahn]

I use an impact wrench to take that pulley nut off, usually loosens w/o doing anything to hold the pulley from moving.

I think that one way that lower hole on the front plate can get wallowed is if someone has used a bolt with threads all the way to the head (guess maybe that makes it a screw). I believe the original bolt had a shoulder, threads inside the hole of the softer front plate can work like a file on that hole if there is some vibration or movement.

I replaced the front plate when mine broke -- guess I got lucky because the first one I looked at was an exact match.

 

[TomMull]

I personally like Randall's solution of sleeving it better than welding, even if you have a MIG or TIG. Much less heat and grinding. I suppose you could tack the sleeve with the welder if you like, without doing much damage.
Also note that old generators are quite plentiful, particularly if you don't need one that works.
Tom